Question about 2005 Suzuki Forenza

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I have a 2005 suzuki forenza. Day before yesterday when i pulled out from a stopped position and put the car under a little bit of a load trying to accelerate or put my foot in it and put it under a load the car sputters and jerks like maybe the fuel filters plugged or the air fuel mix is screwed up but its emiting steam that smells like antifreeze out the exhaust when it's sputtering. I don't see any water or smell any antifreeze on the dipstick and the radiator has plenty of water in it and the temperature isn't hot. Thinking i need to have it plugged in and diagnosed and hoping i don't have a cracked head or blown head gasket. Whats your opinion?

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  • Suzuki Master
  • 42,972 Answers

Sounds like your worst fears have gotten there BLOWN HeAD GASKeT will produce the symptoms you described

Posted on Apr 05, 2017

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

morse008
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SOURCE: my radiator steams and smells hot..

sounds as if you need to add fluid ...make sure vehicle is motor is cool before attempting to open the radiator cap then visually look to see if you can see fluid there if not you will need to add fluid to the top even after your motor runs a few minutes you will need to standby and continue to add fluid until full

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

Testimonial: "thank you soo much!!!! now feel like a ****** i should have checked that first!!"

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SOURCE: loosing antifreeze w/ no visual signs of leaking

I had the same problem! Atrarted as a small loss, Finally was major! The intake manifold was leaking! In the begining what little leaked out burned off! Also had noticed quite a bit of moisture in exauhst!

Posted on Nov 29, 2010

seeross43
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SOURCE: radiator fan not working on a 2005 suzuki forenza

Try running a temporary power wire to it from the battery and see if it works.

Posted on May 03, 2012

  • 183 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 forenza mystery

White smoke from the tailpipe is most always an indication of coolant getting into the combustion chamber(s) somewhere. Common causes can (depending upon engine design) include the following:

-- blown cylinder head gasket
-- loose cylinder head capscrews
-- warped cylinder head
-- cracked cylinder head
-- cracked cylinder block
-- cracked, eroded or cavitated cylinder liner
-- blown intake manifold gasket
-- cracked intake manifold
-- failed EGR cooler
-- failed aftercooler (air-to-water type)

I am sure that the list above is not all-encompassing, nor is it intended to be. I mention all of those possible causes to illustrate that contrary to popular belief, it is not always a simple diagnosis.

Now to your engine... If I remember right, that engine has an aluminum head (I can't remember about the block). Aluminum engine castings are subjust to increased expansion and warpage when heated as compared to cast iron ones. In other words, they are more susceptible to damage when overheated. This can happen on a local basis without a general overheat beinbg noted due to "hot sposts" within an engine -- for example, a cylinder running excessively lean.

I would start by pinpointing which cylinder(s) are involved by pulling the sparks plugs and looking for indications of coolant on the plugs and in the cylinders. Colant signs in adjacent cylinders will normally indicate a problem common to those cylinders. Also check for signs of the coolant in the crankcase -- and don't count on it looking "milky" on the dipstick. Pull the dipstick and check it, of course, looking for the traditional milky oil, and/or rust, but also check further by draining some oil from the crankcase. If coolant has collected there, it will generally settle to the bottom unless the engine has been run extensively.

Posted on Jul 18, 2012

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