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How do u bleed a 2001 transit tipper rear wheel drive clutch

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 Ford explorer 4 wheel drive with antilock

make sure all lines are sealing and flex hoses are not internally obstructed.

Posted on Nov 09, 2009

  • 1596 Answers

SOURCE: How do I bleed the clutch master cylinder

Same as You Bleed Any other System Being carefull not to get air IN and IT sometimes TAKES FOREVER ________ STICK WITH IT ------ Took Me 2 hours One time

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: brakes won't bleed on a 2001 GMC Z71 four-wheel drive

check your calipers to make sure the bleeder is on the top! If not it will create a pocket of air in the chamber that won't bleed out!

Posted on Aug 31, 2009

cadillac02
  • 318 Answers

SOURCE: need to remove rear hub

The brakes are adjusted out. There is a slot on the back side of the hub on the bottom in the six o'clock position. You can get a brake tool or use a screwdriver. It is two pieces threaded with a wheel in the center of it. You must turn it so it brings the shoes inward. Yo'll know which way it's turning after a little bit. It can be a challenge but take your time, get comfortable <-that's key and turn away. The drum should slide right off.

Posted on Jan 12, 2011

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: i have a work truck

You need to call the dealer, some times it may be in with your owners manual, but as a Audio Installer, I call the dealer often for the codes.

Posted on May 05, 2011

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I have Ford transit truck tipper 05 plate 180I had


has the dif got sufficient oil/grease ? what is the mileage ? may need an overhaul

Oct 18, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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How do I bleed a slave cylinder to a 93 Cheverlet 1500 series 4 wheel drive truck


Much like bleeding brakes. There's a bleed screw on the cylinder. Have a helper push the clutch pedal down while you release air form the bleeder screw. Watch the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder. You can get 2 good pushes on the clutch pedal before adding more fluid.

Sep 23, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

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Bleeding the clutch after slave removal on Golf 4 1.6


Mk4 Brake and clutch fluid change and bleeding

First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.

Firstly you will need:

7mm spanner - front bleed nipple
11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple
9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple
length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier
Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women
2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works
spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed
R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure

Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.

Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.


Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.



Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.

With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.

Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.

Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.



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Mar 11, 2011 | 2001 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

Replaced whole clutch and slave cylinder on 1996 Toyota T100 2wd 2mos. ago. Today while driving the clutch hit the floor. I did'nt see any fluid leakage. Any ideas.


Sounds like you need to bleed the system again, or you have an air leak. try bleeding again and just check your fittings for tightness.

Jan 20, 2011 | Toyota T100 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding brakes, right rear still has air, ford 350 2001


You need to bleed the Rear wheel ABS unit first. It is mid vehicle, driver's side frame rail I believe. Until it is bled, you won't get fluid to the rear wheels.

Oct 24, 2010 | Ford F-350 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Cross diagonal braking system on a 01' Accent, after changing out both rear wheel brake cylinders, brake master cylinder and bleeding brakes three times and the following issue has come about since, the...


if your vehicle has anti lock braking you may need to get the air out of the pistons. make the anti lock brakes work (this can be done on gravel relatively easily) then bleed the system one more time.

Oct 17, 2010 | 2001 Hyundai Accent

1 Answer

Need to know location of the bleed valve


bleeder valves are used to extract air from hydraulic systems, such as brake and clutch actuators. The bleeder nut is always located high on the slave cylinder. There is one on each wheel of your car. For disk brakes, it's near the top of the brake caliper. For drum barkes, it's behind the wheel hub.
For a clutch, it's on the top of the transmission at the slave cylinder. To bleed, one person must depress the padal while another person opens and then closes the bleeder. The person in the car pumps up and then holds the pedal down, then tells the other person to open and then close the bleeder. This must be done repeatedly for each line that might have air in it until no air comes out during the bleed cycle. If air got in at the master cylinder, start bleeding at the slave furthest from the master cylinder (right rear) and work your way to the closest (left front). Brake fluid is corrosive, so use a catch pan and clean up afterwards.

Sep 03, 2010 | 2001 Pontiac Sunfire

2 Answers

Bleeding Brakes on a 2001 Silverado Z71


Tony,

When bleeding brakes after the system has been opened for service (you didn't say if you were doing any work on the master cylinder) you should start with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder, which is the righ rear. Fill the master cylinder, then have an assitant "pump up" the brake pedal. Tell them to hold it down firmly, then open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder(s). Do not release the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder valve again. You'll know when the air is out - there won't be any more bubbles. Since this vehicle is 2001, this would be a great opportunity to flush the system. Just make sure you have enough brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your vehicle). Good luck!

Mar 15, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado

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Diagram of Location of a Starter Motor on Ford Transit 2002/2003


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