Question about 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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My chevy blazer was running at around 17 volts for around 2 weeks. I have fixed that problem but, I dont know where is the ballast resistor in the primary ignition circuit is to make sure it is ok.

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Alternator is overcharge need to relace immediately or else electrical component will burn off

Posted on Apr 03, 2011

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I'm trying to find an ignition wiring diagram for my 1977 dodge melmar fargo f40 rv


The ignition circuit should be the same as any 1977 Dodge truck, which is basically battery to ignition switch, start side of switch bypasses ballast resistor and goes directly to coil, run side of switch goes to ballast resistor (on firewall) and then to coil. This is done so that you have full 12 volts to coil when starting thus giving higher voltage to plugs to start, but lower amps, but when running you go through the resistor to get lower volts (about 7) to coil to increase amps for a fatter spark and better fuel economy.

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I would say ballast resistor, this is a resistor used to reduce power at the coil from 13.8 volt down to usually 9 volt. this allows an engine to have extra voltage for starting and run on the lower voltage. ballast resister faulty it runs out of spark when you disengage the starter

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I know this sounds really stupid but push the reset button on the tripometer on the gauge cluster I had the same problem and it took me about 2 weeks to figure it out and about1 1/2 seconds to fix I just pushed the button and the noise was gone.

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The older chrysler products have a ballast resister on the firewall that is used for dropping the voltage to the ignition coil. During a start procedure, while the key is turned all the way in start position 12 volts bypass the resistor forcing a high output of coil voltage. When you release the key to the run position 12 volts goes ito the resistor & a lower voltage of around 6-7 volts comes out, & goes to the coil.
What happens, is the resistor breaks inside and no voltage is coming out the resistor. Thus only a start condition exist with no run.

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I have to hold the ignition over to keep my 91 jeep running


This is normally a problem with the ballast resistor or associated wiring.
On some vehicles, in order to give a stronger spark during starting, which helps the engine to start, the ignition coil is designed to run normally on about 9 volts. As a car's electrical system runs on 12 volts, a ballast resistor is included in the coil's electrical connection to "drop" the 3 volt differnece. When the key is turned to the start position, the full 12 volts is applied to the coil for as long as the engine takes to start (giving a much stronger spark), and when the key is released back to the normal "on" position, the ballast resistor is automatically switched in to the coil circuit - if the coil was over-run on 12 volts all the time it would soon burn out.

Depending on your skills, and whether you have access to a tech manual or not, this isnt too difficult to fix. Otherwise a small independant garage shouldnt charge too much to fix this sort of probelm.

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1988 jeep comanche will start only when you hold tumbler in the start position, when you relese it, engine stops.. engine is a 4.0 auto, fuel injected 4x4


If the car has a resistor coil with a ballast resistor to drop voltage from 12 to 8 then check the resistor wiring. When you engage the starter tumbler it by passes the ballast resistor and sends 12 volts straight to the eight volt coil to get good spark. When you release it the 12 volts goes through the resistor to 8 volts and then the coil. If there is a fault in this circuit the engine stops. Jump the 12 volts straight to the coil and start it. If it keeps going the ballast circuit is faulty. Paul

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If the Electrical system is grounding out, particularly the hot lead to the coil. then you will fry coils. Check your Positive leads at the fuse box for continuity to ground. 1st check the ignition wire i.e. red wire going to your coil. Disconnect the ignition wire from the coil or distributor (depending where your coil is located). If it has continuity to ground, then go to your fuse box and pull out all your fuses and test each terminal for continuity to ground until you find which circuit is grounding out and polluting the rest of the positive circuitry. If it is only the ignition hot wire then you know that is where the problem is. If it is coming into the fuse block from another positive source, isolate that source by not allowing it to come into contact with + current.

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