Question about 1994 Isuzu Trooper

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Replacement of timing belt, specialty tools? how do we compress the hydraulic tensioner?

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Use a vise and place a pin or something through the hole to hold it in place

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

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How can I tighten chain drive belt?


Chain belt? Don't think so. There is a timing chain and a timing belt. Timing chains on automobiles are generally non adjustable and are tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner and require no attention. Some timing belts are also tensioned by a hydraulic tensioner requiring no service. Some timing belts are also tensioned by a cam tensioner that can be adjusted but are rarely in need of servive unless the timing belt is being replaced

Feb 13, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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2004 Pilot timing belt replacement



(for the 105,000 mile timing belt service)

Part List :
-Timing belt: 14400-P8A-A02
-Adjuster automatic (hydraulic tensioner): 14520-P8E-A01
-Adjuster - timing belt: 14510-PGE-A01
-Idler pulley - timing belt: 14550-P8A-A01 (OR) 14550-PGE-A01 (there are 2 numbers listed)
-Alternator/Compressor belt: 38920-P8F-A02
-Power steering belt: 56992-P8A-A01
-O-RING (8.8X1.9): 91302-GE0-000
-Fender trip clips (X7): 91501-S04-003

Special Tools Needed:
Honda Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool
3/4" breaker bar

Procedure:
-Remove tire and place the Pilot on a jack stand.

-Remove the clips holding the fender liner and lower splash shield in place (x7) and fold them out of the way.

-Make sure the #1 piston is on top dead center using the marks on the crank pulley and lower timing belt cover (19mm in the crank pulley).

-Remove the Alternator-Compressor belt (14mm boxend) & Power Steering belt. (2-12mm and 1-12mm tensioner bolt)

-Loosen the crank pulley. If you have an impact wrench or a long breaker bar it makes it easier to remove the bolt. You will also need a special tool crankshaft pulley holder (50mm) (19mm and special tool).

-Remove the side engine mount bracket (5-14mm bolts).

-Remove the crankshaft pulley.

-Remove the oil dipstick & tube (10mm).

-Remove the front & rear 'upper covers' of the timing belt housing, moving the wire harness out of the way first (5-10mm bolts for each cover).

-Remove the lower cover (7-10mm bolts).

-Remove the engine mount bracket that is bolted to the block (3-14mm bolts).

-Remove the hydraulic tensioner (2-10mm bolts).

-Remove the tensioner pulley (you will reuse the inner sleave) (14mm bolt).

-Remove the idler pulley bolt (14mm bolt with thread locker on it) (I used Loctite 242 during the reinstall because I had it on the shelf).

-Remove the timing belt.

-Before installing a new timing belt, make sure the pulleys, belt guide plate, upper & lower covers are clean and check to see if the crank and cams have rotated (mine did not move).

-The install is the reverse order of removal (make sure you torque everything correctly!)

-The removal of the lock pin in the hydraulic tensioner gave me a little trouble so I used pliers.

-Once the crank pulley is back on, check the lower timing mark (and the cam marks) before the top covers are installed.

on Oct 13, 2014 | 2004 Honda Pilot

1 Answer

I need to know where the timing marks is on a 1997 plymouth breeze 2.0 liter


I strongly recommend you consult a repair manual for the timing belt install procedure. Depending if you have a hydraulic or mechanical tensioner for the belt, the procedure is different. If you register for free at www.autozone.com, listing make, model and year, you could find the procedure under "repair guides".
Here is a shortened guide: Align notch of crank sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off 3 notches or teeth, (counterclockwise to back off).
Align notch of cam sprocket with mark on the inner belt cover-it is at top of engine-notch on cam will be almost straight up.
Move crankshaft to 1/2 notch before arrow on oil pump housing. Install belt starting at crankshaft, then around water pump, then around camshaft sprocket last.
Move crank to TDC (notch right with arrow) to take up belt slack.
Reinstall tensioner, and tighten fasteners as follows: Mechanical tensioner-250 inch pounds.
Hydraulic tensioner assembly pulley bolt-50 foot pounds. Hydraulic tensioner assembly and pivot bracket bolt-23 foot pounds.
Remove tensioner plunger pins-for either mechanical or hydraulic tensioners. Tension is correct when plunger pin can be removed and replaced easily.
Rotate crankshaft at least two revolutions, and recheck timing marks.
Reinstall timing belt cover, engine mount bracket, engine mount, and crankshaft damper. Tighten crank damper pulley bolt to 105 foot pounds.
Reinstall drive belts and accessories.

I know the info on the tensioner is confusing: why you need to consult a repair manual or register at autozone. You have to compress the plunger on the hydraulic tensioner after removing it and insert a pin (a very small Allen wrench works-5/64 inch Allen wrench). If a mechanical tensioner, you will need an 8 mm Allen wrench to rotate the tensioner counter clockwise (this is before or after removed from engine), the use a 1/8 inch or 3 mm Allen wrench to insert into plunger hole, to hold the tensioner retracted until installed. See what I mean? Post back if unclear...or just find the repair procedure. Sorry, no diagrams available for me. I'm too old and crochety-lol.

Feb 27, 2013 | 1997 Plymouth Breeze

1 Answer

In replacing timing belt for 1994 Mazda MPV V-6, we removed the tensioner pulley and can't re-install it due to it now being mis-aligned. Tension of holder keeps us from screwing the pulley back on. ...


the tensioner must be compressed and then held in the compressed position by a small pin, (maybe use a small allen wrench, its got to be strong) then bolt it on. Once you are sure all of the marks are lined up with tension pushing on the belt tensioner pulley, then pull out the pin, an dthe belt will be tensioned. There is no special tool. Be careful and compress the tensioner with a vice, or large pliers,but very slowly. be sire there is no slop in the tensioner pulley pivot, if there is, replace it.

Dec 13, 2010 | 1994 Mazda MPV

4 Answers

Do I need any special tools or wedge to change a timing belt for 2001 tdi jetta diesel.


Timing Belt Spanner Wrench
AST tool# H 2587-1

- Used for the Adjustment of the Timing Belt
- Applicable to 2004-2005 VW Golf, Jetta Pump Duse and 2002-2005 Audi 3.0 V6

Used for the adjustment of the timing belt.

2009 Suggested user price: $52.67

Assenmacher Specialty Tools
1 800 525 2943
Timing Belt Spanner Wrench
AST tool# H 2587-2

- Used for Adjusting the Timing Belt Tension
  • Applicable to 1999 and later VW Golf and Jetta, Passat and 1999-2003 VW Beetle with 2.0L Gas Engine and 1.9L T.D.I. Diesel Engine
Used for adjusting the timing belt tension and is comparable to VW tool# T10020. Applicable to 1999 and later VW Golf and Jetta, and 1999-2003 VW Beetle with 2.0L gas engine and 1.9L T.D.I. diesel engine.

2009 Suggested user price: $52.67

Assenmacher Specialty Tools
1 800 525 2943
128947643

Jul 02, 2010 | 2001 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

1 Answer

My bf can not get the corner bolt off to get to my timing belt


This is not an easy task and you will find it takes about 6-8 hours if you have all the needed parts ready to install if you need them. Don't expect to just go to the local parts place and obtain some of these parts. There are several dealer only parts.

Before you start this job:
1. Inspect the upper and lower torque struts that hold the motor on the passenger side. Order them ahead of time if you see they are damaged. Make sure the local parts store has them in stock if you are not sure of their integrity. You can tell if they are bad when you remove them; they just fall apart or you can see the split neoprene.
2. Inspect your accessory belts and the serpentine tensioner pulley prior to beginning the work. Order the belts (If you have over 75,000 miles on the vehicle, you will need the new accessory belts.) or know where you can purchase them locally.
3. Make sure you can get a new timing belt tensioner unit locally at your Mopar Dealer. If you have a mechanical timing belt tensioner, you are warned by a Dodge technical bulletin to replace it with a hydraulic unit.
4. Order a water pump and replace it while replacing the timing belt.
5. Of course, purchase a timing belt, lol...


First, it was necessary to remove the passenger side tire and the splash guard behind the tire in the wheel well. The next items to remove were the accessories belts (ac, alternator, etc.) which included the serpentine belt. The crankshaft damper had to be removed with a three-arm puller tool and a small insert that protects the crankshaft threads. Remove the power steering pump by just setting it off to the side after removing the bolts. You don't have to undo the hoses; just lay it over to the side.

Using a floor jack, you hold the engine in place while you remove the lower torque arms. Inspect the upper and lower torque arms carefully. I would at least inspect these torque arms carefully for broken neoprene prior to beginning the timing belt change.


Next, you must remove the serpentine tensioner plate which has three bolts. This was a totally unexpected cost for my timing belt replacement when I tried to purchase only the plastic tensioner pulley and was informed that the item was not a replacement part; you had to go to Dodge and purchase an entire plate (with a redesigned "hydraulic" tensioner for the serpentine belt tensioner). go to a local salvage yard and obtained a fairly new tensioner pulley for about $5.00; the old plastic pulley will be completely worn away. A new serpentine tensioner plate with the integral tensioner is $429 at Dodge.


You can now remove the front timing cover. Make sure to align the camshaft and crankshaft timing marks before removing the timing belt. The camshaft pulley has a mark that needs to align with the mark on the head above the pulley. The crankshaft sprocket should line up at the same time with its mark at the top of the oil pump assembly. If you accidentally move the camshaft in some manner, after you remove the timing belt, you can damage the pistons or valves.

Next, to loosen the old timing belt, you need to look at the tensioner. Insert an 8 mm Allen wrench into the hexagon opening located on the front of the belt tensioner pulley. Rotate the pulley counterclockwise until it contacts the stop. While holding tensioner pulley against stop, insert a 1/8" or 3 mm diameter pin or Allen wrench through the hole located to the left of the hex opening. While pushing pin into hole, allow the tensioner pulley to rotate back. Almost immediately, the pin should engage the locking hole to prevent further movement of the pulley. I was totally surprised by what happened when I tried to purchase a new timing belt tensioner pulley as my pulley was worn quite badly. I received the wrong part to replace the tensioner pulley three times at three different parts stores. It took about an hour to discover that there was a problem with the old "mechanical" timing belt tensioners. It is not just recommended that you change the tensioner; you must replace the timing belt tensioner plate and all if you have the older mechanical tensioner. This is a technical bulletin from Mopar that says there have been several "explosions" of the mechanical units with engine replacements needed; the tensioner actually blew a hole in the engine block. Of course, this is not a "free replacement" due to a manufacturing problem; you must purchase this item. Some of the latter models of the 2000 Neon have had the hydraulic units installed and all you need to purchase is the tensioner pulley which costs about $30. You can tell if you have the mechanical one when you actually get into and remove the timing belt; the mechanical unit has four pronounced legs, while the hydraulic unit is more of a plate (even though the holes align for both units). You must replace the back timing belt cover with a new tensioner installation (and it comes with the kit). In the earlier neon model required a complete plate, hydraulic unit and tensioner pulley replacement. And, of course, it a dealer item only with a cost of $469.

Before you begin your job of timing belt replacement, find out if you own an earlier 2000 and also locate a dealer with the unit in stock. You honestly should install the hydraulic unit as the technical bulletin explains the damage from an "explosion".


While you are in there, you should replace the water pump. If you read all the bulletins and people's posts about this item going bad just after they finished the timing belt, you really should just purchase the water pump and make sure it has the seal in the kit (some did not include the water pump seal.). The water pump was only $40. If you have to replace it, you see all the trouble you must go through again to get it out of the timing belt area. The water pump is driven by the timing belt.
The oil pump is also driven by the timing belt; however, there are not many failures of the oil pumps.

Now you may start to put the timing belt into place. If you have gotten the timing just a tiny bit off, you can follow the procedure as below. It is hard to explain in words only without pictures; however, I will try to do so.


Set crankshaft sprocket to TDC by aligning the sprocket with the arrow on the oil pump housing, then back off to 3 notches before TDC, that is clockwise three teeth.

Use a large wrench and the crankshaft nut to carefully adjust the timing. This is to allow for belt installation later.


Set camshaft to TDC by aligning mark on sprocket with the arrow on the rear of timing belt cover. Move crankshaft to 1/2 mark before TDC for belt installation.


Install timing belt.
Starting at the crankshaft, go around the water pump sprocket and then around the camshaft sprocket.
Move crankshaft sprocket to TDC to take up belt slack.
Remove the pin or 1/8" or 3 mm Allen wrench from belt tensioner.
Rotate crankshaft 2 revolutions and check the alignment of the timing marks.


Install front timing belt cover. Install engine mount bracket. Install right engine mount to engine mount bracket through bolt. Remove jack from under engine. Install upper torque strut. Install power steering pump assembly. Raise vehicle and install lower torque strut. Install crankshaft damper using M12-1.75 x 150 mm bolt, washer, thrust bearing and nut from Special Tool 6792. Install crankshaft damper bolt and tighten to 142 Nm (100 ft. lbs.). Install accessory drive belts. Install right inner splash shield.
Lower vehicle and perform camshaft and crankshaft timing relearn procedure as follows: Connect the DRB scan tool to the data link (diagnostic) connector. This connector is located in the passenger compartment; at the lower edge of instrument panel; near the steering column. Turn the ignition switch on and access the "miscellaneous" screen. Select "re-learn cam/crank" option and follow directions on DRB screen.
It is not a fun job unless you enjoy some very hard work and have a few specialized tools. The scan tool was purchased at Sears (I hope I can say a specific name. You can purchase the scan tool at a parts store or off the web as well.). The special tool is a three-arm puller. The other special tool is to protect the crankshaft threads. Hope this helps!!! and thank you for using FIxya

Mar 08, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Neon

1 Answer

How to release hydraulic timing belt tensioner on mitsubishi 3500 SOHC engine


After you set your timing marks, remove the bolt from
the center of the tensioner. Remove the tensioner, and put it in a vise with small wood blocks to prevent
any damage to the tensioner. Also there may be a plug at the base of the tens. place a socket or flat washers around the plug to prevent damage. There are small holes in the push rod and housing slowly
compress the push rod to line up the two holes.
And insert a pin in the holes. this will keep the
tensioner compressed until.you're ready for it.
Also be sure to closly match the new belt and the
old one. There are two timing belts for this engine.
One is a 195 tooth belt the other is 201, if the belt
you use is a little to long, it will slip on the water
pump and cause overheat problems.
I hope this helps. Good luck.

Feb 04, 2010 | 1997 Mitsubishi Montero

1 Answer

Replace timing belt


1993–96 2.3L and 2.6L Engines
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Loosen and remove the engine accessory drive belts.
  3. Remove the cooling fan assembly and the water pump pulley.
  4. Drain the fluid from the power steering reservoir.
  5. Unbolt and remove the power steering pump. Unbolt the hydraulic line brackets from the upper timing cover and move the pump out of the work area without disconnecting the hydraulic lines.
  6. Disconnect and remove the starter motor if a flywheel holder (part No. J–38674) is to be used.
  7. Remove the upper timing belt cover.
  8. Rotate the crankshaft to set the engine at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder. The arrow mark on camshaft sprocket aligns with mark on the rear timing cover.
  9. Remove the crankshaft pulley.
  10. Remove the lower timing belt cover.
  11. Verify that the engine is set at TDC/compression for the No. 1 cylinder. The notch on the crankshaft sprocket aligns with the pointer on the oil seal retainer.
  12. Release and remove the tensioner spring to release the timing belt's tension.
  13. Remove the timing belt.
  14. Unbolt the tensioner pulley bracket from the engine's front cover.
  15. If necessary, unbolt and remove the camshaft sprockets. Use a puller to remove the crankshaft pulley if necessary. Don't loose the crankshaft sprocket key. To install:
  16. Install the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets if they were removed. Align the timing marks and be sure to install any keys. Tighten the camshaft sprocket bolt to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm).
  17. Install the tensioner assembly. Tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). Tighten the cap bolt to 9 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
  18. Make sure the crankshaft and the camshaft sprockets are aligned with their timing marks. Install the timing belt onto the sprockets using the following sequence: first, crankshaft sprocket; second, oil pump sprocket; third, camshaft sprocket.
  19. Loosen the tensioner mounting bolt. This will allow the tensioner spring to apply pressure to the timing belt.
  20. After the spring has pulled the timing belt as far as possible, temporarily tighten the tensioner mounting bolt to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). NOTE: Remove the flywheel holder before rotating the crankshaft. Reinstall the holder to torque the crankshaft pulley bolt.
  21. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise two complete revolutions to check the rotation of the belt and the alignment of the timing marks. Listen for any rubbing noises which may mean the belt is binding.
  22. Loosen the tensioner pulley bolt to allow the spring to adjust the correct tension. Then, retighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 14 ft. lbs (19 Nm).
  23. Install the lower timing cover and the crankshaft pulley.
  24. Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolt to 87 ft. lbs. (118 Nm). Tighten the small pulley bolts to 6 ft. lbs. (8 Nm).
  25. Install the upper timing cover.
  26. Install the starter if it was removed. Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
  27. Install the power steering pump. If the hydraulic lines were disconnected, refill and bleed the power steering system.
  28. Install the water pump pulley and tighten its nut to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm).
  29. Install the cooling fan assembly.
  30. Install and adjust the accessory drive belts.
  31. Connect the negative battery cable.

Jun 26, 2009 | 1995 Isuzu Trooper

2 Answers

99 Volvo S80 water pump replacement


if this helps.. I had the 1998 model S70. the water pump was driven by the timing belt. you had to take the timing belt off just to replace the water pump. it was just a simple bolt on replacement. the only difficult issue is resetting the hydraulic tensioner on the timing belt. the hydraulic tensioner has to be completely taken off and compressed VERY SLOWLY in a vise. then insert a very hard drill bit or (special volvo tool) into a keeper hole, reinstall hydraulic tensioner onto car and reinstall timing belt.very quickly remove drill bit from keeper hole in tensioner and the tensioner snaps back out to put tension on belt. and you are done.

Jun 15, 2009 | 1999 Volvo S80

2 Answers

Should hydraulic tensinor be replaced with timing belt - 99 outbk


timing belts do no use a hydraulic tensioner, that is only used on engines with internal oil lubricated timing chains.

Apr 11, 2009 | 1999 Subaru Legacy

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