Question about 1995 Chevrolet Camaro

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I am looking for someone to tell me the name of a part and what it is for. It is a metal rod that bolts to the rear of the transmission ( not the drive shaft ), runs along the drive shaft, is twisted a quarter of a turn and bolts to the rear axle. Anyone seen such a thing?

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Torque arm

Posted on Jul 12, 2011

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Sorry dude, it is hard enough trying to keep up with all of the clunks and bumps and squeaks and rattles that occur on vehicles with factory suspension parts. When modifications are made...it is anybody's guess.

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Need to change a rear axle seal on my 2004 Chevy Silverado 4x4 can you tell me how to do that and send any pictures you may have or let me know where I can find any pictures. Thanks


HI, my name is Ray. I don't have any pics but I think I can talk you through this ok. First you should remove the cover from the rear differential. Have a pan ready to catch the oil. There will be a couple qts. Remove the ten or twelve bolts with a 13mm socket starting at bottom and working up. Next jack up the side you want to change and block securely. Remove the wheel, brake caliper, (wire it up as not to stretch the hose) and rotor. Now back to the center of differential. Look for a shiney rod about 3/4" diameter and 3-4 in. long. It sits perpindicular to axles and about center of gear cluster. It runs through a spyder gear at each end. Now look for a small bolt at one end of the rod that holds it in. Remove bolt with a 5/16 or 8 mm wrench. You should be able to rotate the ring gear to get the bolt in position. The bolt is very tight so you may need to hit the wrench with hammer to lossen it. once removed, slide the rod down out of cluster and place on clean surface. Now go to outside and push end of axle inward til it stops. Go back underneath and look for end of axle shaft. There is a 'C' clip which holds it in. Remove this, (a magnet works well sometimes) and go to outside and pull axle out. The seal is in outer end of housing. Remove and replace it and reassemble. Good Luck.

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Can anyone shed light on re and re-ing the rear tailgate door handle.? The white metal has broken on the lift handle, and I have a replacement. Steps involved in removing the old one, and replacing with...


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Feb 17, 2011 | 2001 Isuzu Rodeo

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How do i remove the transmission?


There are 4 different transmissions that go in this car.

The following is the Automatic Overdrive Transmission:
Automatic Overdrive (AOD) Transmission 1983–89 VEHICLES
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Place a suitable drain pan under the transmission fluid pan. Starting at the rear of the pan and working toward the front, loosen the attaching bolts and allow the fluid to drain. Finally remove all of the pan attaching bolts except two at the front, to allow the fluid to further drain. With fluid drained, install two bolts on the rear side of the pan to temporarily hold it in place.
  4. Remove the converter drain plug access cover from the lower end of the converter housing.
  5. Remove the converter-to-flexplate attaching nuts. place a wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolt to turn the converter to gain access to the nuts.
  6. Place a drain pan under the converter to catch the fluid. With the wrench on the crankshaft pulley attaching bolts, turn the converter to gain access to the converter drain plug and remove the plug. After the fluid has been drained, reinstall the plug.
  7. Scribe a mark indexing the driveshaft to axle flange, disconnect the driveshaft from the rear axle and slide shaft rearward from the transmission. Install a seal installation tool in the extension housing to prevent fluid leakage.
  8. Disconnect the cable from the terminal on the starter motor. Remove the three attaching bolts and remove the starter motor. Disconnect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  9. Remove the rear mount-to-crossmember attaching bolts and the two crossmember-to-frame attaching bolts.
  10. Remove the two engine rear support-to-extension housing attaching bolts.
  11. Disconnect the TV linkage rod from the transmission TV lever. Disconnect the manual rod from the transmission manual lever at the transmission.
  12. Remove the two bolts securing the bellcrank bracket to the converter housing. Fig. 11: Unfasten the two bellcrank bracket-to-converter housing bolts 88187g28.gif

  13. Raise the transmission with a transmission jack to provide clearance to remove the crossmember. Remove the rear mount from the crossmember and remove the crossmember from the side supports.
  14. Lower the transmission to gain access to the oil cooler lines.
  15. Disconnect each oil line from the fittings on the transmission using Cooler Line Disconnect Tool T86P-77265-AH or equivalent.
  16. Disconnect the speedometer cable from the extension housing.
  17. Remove the bolt that secures the transmission fluid filler tube to the cylinder block. Lift the filler tube and the dipstick from the transmission.
  18. Secure the transmission to the jack with the chain.
  19. Remove the converter housing-to-cylinder block attaching bolts.
  20. Carefully move the transmission and converter assembly away from the engine and, at the same time, lower the jack to clear the underside of the vehicle.
  21. Remove the converter and mount the transmission in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B, or equivalent holding fixture. To install:
  22. Tighten the converter drain plug to 8–28 ft. lbs. (11–38 Nm).
  23. Position the converter on the transmission, making sure the converter drive flats are fully engaged in the pump gear by rotating the converter.
  24. With the converter properly installed, place the transmission on the jack. Secure the transmission to the jack with a chain.
  25. Rotate the converter until the studs and drain plug are in alignment with the holes in the flexplate. WARNING
    Lubricate the pilot bushing with a suitable chassis grease.
  26. Align the yellow balancing marks on converter and flexplate.
  27. Move the converter and transmission assembly forward into position, using care not to damage the flexplate and the converter pilot. The converter must rest squarely against the flexplate. This indicates that the converter pilot is not binding in the engine crankshaft.
  28. Install and tighten the converter housing-to-engine attaching bolts to 40–50 ft. lbs. (55–68 Nm), making sure that the vacuum tube retaining clips are properly positioned.
  29. Remove the safety chain from around the transmission.
  30. Install a new O-ring on the lower end of the transmission filler tube. Insert the tube in the transmission case and secure the tube to the engine with the attaching bolts.
  31. Connect the speedometer cable to the extension housing.
  32. Connect the oil cooler lines to the right side of the transmission case. Tighten the lines to 24–31 Nm).
  33. Position the crossmember on the side supports. Position the rear mount on the crossmember and install the attaching bolt and nut.
  34. Secure the engine rear support to the extension housing and tighten the bolts to 35–40 ft. lbs. (47–54 Nm).
  35. Lower the transmission and remove the jack.
  36. Secure the crossmember to the side supports with the attaching bolts and tighten them to 70–100 ft. lbs. (95–136 Nm).
  37. Position the bellcrank to the converter housing and install the two attaching bolts.
  38. Connect the TV linkage rod to the transmission TV lever. Connect the manual linkage rod to the manual lever at the transmission.
  39. Secure the converter-to-flexplate attaching nuts and tighten them to 20–30 ft. lbs. (27–41 Nm).
  40. Install the converter housing access cover and secure it with the attaching bolts.
  41. Secure the starter motor in place with the attaching bolts. Connect the cable to the terminal on the starter. Connect the neutral start switch wires at the plug connector.
  42. Align the scribe marks and connect the driveshaft to the rear axle.
  43. Adjust the shift linkage as required.
  44. Adjust the throttle linkage.
  45. Carefully lower the vehicle, then connect the negative battery cable.
  46. Fill the transmission to the correct level with Mercon® or equivalent fluid. Start the engine and shift the transmission to all ranges, then recheck the fluid level.

Jul 22, 2010 | 1989 Ford Thunderbird

1 Answer

'98 Escort transmission woes.


You will have to lubricate your shift mechanism. Shift Linkage —Transmission Gearshift Rod and Clevis Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle;
  1. Remove the heat shield front (RH) bolt.
  2. Remove the heat shield middle (RH)& (LH) bolts.
  3. Remove the heat shield middle (LH) bolt.
  4. Remove the heat shield rear bolt.
  5. Remove the transmission gearshift rod-to-shift lever nut.
  6. 2ac81cc.gif
    7.Remove the transmission gearshift lever clamp bolt and the transmission gearshift rod and clevis .c37044a.gif
8.Remove the transmission gearshift rod nut.

7b10680.gif 9. Remove the transmission gearshift bolt from the input shift shaft and remove the transmission gearshift rod and clevis.

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You may not have to remove the linkage but make sure to lubricate all the moving parts until they are freely moving. Although it is probably easier if the linkage is removed and work done on a bench or something.
Drain Procedure
  1. Raise and support the vehicle;
  2. Remove the drain plug and drain the fluid. 8af8970.gif
  3. NOTE: Use a new gasket on the drain plug.
    Install the drain plug.
  4. Tighten plug to 29-40 ft/lbs
Fill Procedure
  1. Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake.
  1. Disconnect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) electrical connector.
  2. 5a4c8e7.gif
    3.Remove the bolt and the VSS.
    0c09628.gif 4. Place a funnel into the VSS hole.

    2875e67.gif 5. Add the specified transaxle fluid until the full level on the VSS is reached.

    81d0b65.gif OIL LEVEL BETWEEN ARROWS^^^^^ You will have to insert the vss to verify the level is between the arrows as indicated. (use it like a dipstick)
    6. When full...(a)Install the VSS and the bolt. (b) Connect the VSS electrical connector. IO hope this helps you. Please give feedback if you want to. Wfservices

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    I can tell you what engine is suppose to be in it by the VIN. I can tell you what transmission you have if you can describe the shape of the bottom pan. As far as the engine that you have that is tough. The engine size should be stamped on the rear of the engine near the distributor near where the engine and transmission meet. Rectangular pan 4 speed= 700r4 Pan like the state of Illinois, 3 speed= TH400 Squared off in front, tapers on both sides to the rear and slopes up to the rear, 4 speed=4L80E These are the only transmissions that were factory installed in a 1992 C1500. If it looks different let me know. You never know what someone has installed.

    May 27, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet C1500

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    1995 Ford Tuarus


    Unscrew the bolts at the ends of the metal lines from the radiator. First loosen the small bolts from the large ones the the large ones from the radiator.

    Sep 14, 2008 | 1995 Ford Taurus

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