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Re: 04 axima
Yes this could be caused by the Nissan NATS system. Your keys may need to be initilized for the car. Is the SECURITY light on steady, or is it flashing?? Check it. If its steady, than the NATS locked you out and you will not start the car. If its flashing, than NATS should be all set and the car should start. MAke sure, that you are using initilized keys.
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Did you check for battery positive voltage at the pink wire at the ignition module , you have three connectors ,one with 4 an two with two wires , the one with pink an black ,that's power an ground . is there power an ground ? Which crankshaft position sensor did you replace , yours has two ! crank sensor A an crank sensor B . A is an input to the PCM - engine computer , B is an input to the ignition module .Does your check engine light come on when you turn on the key ? an go off when you crank the engine ? You tested for spark at the coil ? Pull two pull wires on same coil an crank over the engine , is there spark jumping from one terminal to the other ?
Engine Cranks But Does Not Run
Inspect for the following conditions:
Mass air flow (MAF) is compared to a calculated mass air flow based upon the manifold absolute pressure (MAP), throttle position (TP), and engine RPM readings. A skewed or unresponsive MAP sensor at KEY ON will cause the predicted air flow value to be inaccurate. Compare MAP and TP sensor value to that of a known good vehicle.
A faulty engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor. Compare the ECT with intake air temperature (IAT) on a completely cool engine with a scan tool. The ECT should be within 3?°C (5?°F) of the IAT. If not, refer to DTC P0128 .
You need a scan tool to check this stuff !
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check-Engine Controls?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check - Engine Controls
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Observe the DTC information with a scan tool.
Does the scan tool display DTC P0101, P0123, P0230, P0601, P0602, P1626, P1630, or P1631?
Go to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List
Go to Step 3
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Inspect the following fuses for an open:
Did you find an open fuse?
Go to Step 10
Go to Step 4
Attempt to start the engine.
Monitor the engine RPM parameter while the engine is cranking with a scan tool.
Does the engine RPM parameter display cranking RPM?
Go to Step 5
Go to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis
Monitor the Cylinder 1-6 Injector Circuit Status parameter with a scan tool.
Crank the engine.
Do all of the Cylinder Injector Circuit Status parameters display OK?
Go to Step 6
Go to Fuel Injector Circuit Diagnosis
Command the fuel pump ON with a scan tool.
Does the fuel pump turn ON?
what engine? 2.3 or 2.5L?
all cylinders flooding??? spark tips on ALL dripping in gas?
check spark at all spark plugs ( ALL not just ONE)
if spark is good.
this engine is chain cam, so it makes huge noise before death.
did it?, nah
ok, so connect any $9 scan tool, and scan it. (barrow /rent.?)
you crank it for 5 seconds, not less.
and as you crank the scan tool RPM shows 250 to300 rpm and fails to start, the RPM on the tool shows you that the crank sensor is working
now release the key and do not turn off
look for DTC errors. got P0340,355? or any other DTC
that decodes to bad CMP or CKP/
yes, BINGO, the scan tool told you why spark is dead, or way off
the PCM will report Cmp or CKP errors even 1 in 6 pulses.
the PCM runs monitors against these 2 full time. and will see it fail.
and report, it, let it tell why spark is bad.
say spark is good. and still floods.
1: engine compresssion over 150psi? W.O.T?
2: flooding , i pull the fuel pump relay and crank now.
starts and runs for 3 -5 seconds, yes, that is the flood clearing
so i then try test fuel, runs perfect now (no fuel pump) ???
runs for 3 second, each test fuel usage. well good motor, good spark.
what more do you want? sure to run
so you have either insane high fuel pressure. or injectors leaking
can and does happen.
the tests are all in the FSM under injector and pump testing.
i check fuel pressure first. as its a mandatory thing.....
to factory spec. for unsaid engine.
then i do a injector leak down and balance check.
ask if you get this far.....????
WHAT ENGINE ?????? 4, 5.2 or 5.9 Liters?
Fuses are First, always for ever. on electrics or EFI.
dry rail cranking ! you must crank it.
(if you have liking injector or leaking regulator it can drop fast ,so crank on) yes, 2 men or 1 and small boy, LOL
so check voltage at the pump cranking. please stop guessing.!
the ECU commands up the PUMP , cranking or running
so crank and read voltages at pump or at FP relay.
pump activating, is by premissives. not just a key on event
due to crash and burn rules. (unlike on TV)
same with injection. (spark must be good)
first , buy your self a voltmeter (DMM/DVM) its a very easy tool to use
and on volts, mode, totally harmless to you or car. !!!
be aware, that on some cars
if there is no spark, there is no fuel pumping
or it might take a second to detect no spark and the pump is cut
or on one of my cars the pump works the engine starts for 1second
and the ECU sees no spark (dead tachometer ) even though spark is
good the ECU sees no spark and ALL fuel is cut, injectors and fuel pump relay ( you never monitored the action of the relay?. and its dead.? i bet?) spark monitoring can fail with good spark, !!!
the path, on all cars.............. pins and colors change to confuse...
the FUEL pump relay is in the PDC
it has 4 pins, its just a 4 pin std, relay.
a coil and a contactor
if the coil is not HOT (12v across the coil) cranking
there will never ever be pump action.
so the first test is to check the PUMP relay coil wires.
the coil hot side is 12vdc key on
the other wire, marked. C20 DB (dark blue?)
it is 12v keyon
and when you crank the PCM grounds this wire and it must go
to 0v, (0.5v max) if not the PCM is in CUT FUEL MODE.
99.999999% sure, its not a bad PCM. see?
if this line dont go low you must find out why the PCM is in cut fuel.
this is pretty easy,its called a scan tool. got one
they only cost $9 (ask)
if the coil is hot at C18 relay pin and 0v at C20
this state the Relay is energized.
so we check pins C16 and 17,of said relay
we check C16 first. its 12v even key off, hot at all times if not, the fuse is blown. (or battery totally dead)
then crank and pin C17 goes hot(note my order of testing, its not random) C17 dead, is bad relay, C17 12v, cranking is dead pump.
C17 is DG/wht wire, (darkgreen.with white stripe?)
if this wire is cut the pump is dead
so is the pump dead, if hot this wire is, and the pump ground wire is cut.
when i say cut that means cut or corrosion,etc.
eg; gross resistance in the path.
takes 4min to show, and longer to type this...
the G305 pump ground black must not be bad. (12v on black wire is just that while cranking)
i will not fully cover PCM permissive on the pump.
but will do so in short.
1: ECU sees spark loss, for any reason.. even when good real.
All ECu do this differently. many read the spark coil primary
wires of inductive (EMF) kickback , on one or all coils.
other cars its just the tachometer signal dead.
2: CMP errors (cam sensor)
3: CKP errors. (crank sensor)
4: TPS stuck at WOT , usually only cuts injectors.. (unflood mode)
ive built and programmed PCMs from scratch and am aware of all pitfalls here. am.
if have the drawings, ask.
or log in to Alldata.com
again, connect the $9 scan tool
crank for 5 seconds. (min) max 15)
does RPM roll from 0 to near 300? no? bingo.
does DTC 340 or 350 store as you crank or release key
and do not turn off key, wait 1 second, see if DTCs are stored
in the PCM looking with any scan tool made..
if yes, BINGO !!!!
no starts. cranks perfectly, full cranking speed, not 1 rpm but nearer 300.
ever do the 60k tuneup in the book.?
assuming the service was done and all cyl. are over 150PSI (WOT)
then we check spark first, not fuel..
The ECU brain cuts fuel (by design) any time spark is gone.
here is the proper flow:
1: throw, wild guess?, compression is good,. cam belt slip??????
is cam shaft turning,? look down oil fill hole. is it?
2: i check spark it's bad. (fix spark)
2a: i check spark its good', on all 4 cylinders not just 1.
3: spark was good. cam spins, pray compression is ok....
4: i connect scan tool, i crank for 5 seconds and see RPM rise ,good
i see ECT at say 50f (garage temp) and might see DTCs get thrown as i crank? , i see P0340 or p0355 ( one is dead CKP and other is CMP)
in my case no DTC thrown cranking , and i have spark and ECU
communicates. (key point) we alway s do that ,the tool is $9 (ask)
5: i then look at spark tips, they are:
1: soaking wet, its flooded, (spark was good but they are 10 year old.
2: dry, no fuel all spark tips day.
your engine has 4 cylinders, and all four most not flood or run dry.
i can listen to any cold start and hear gross misfire. but.....
if they are bone dry, i check voltage to the fuel pump.
it must be 12vdc cranking , 1/2 the cars you must crank. to get the pump to run ,(ECU hard logic!)
say I have 12vdc cranking
i check he fuel pressure, its not 30psi, its 5 psi (bad)
i rap the side of the fuel pressure regulator and it now is 30psi.
car starts. the reg was stuck wide open(its bad)
ok, still no start. or good pressure. Good is 30.
let say it was 60psi, i find i forgot to replace my dirty and packed up fuel filter
at the 60k mile service point. ( did i save $10 ? , no)
pretend filter is good..... pressure way low.... (examples)
so i read my FSM and it shows this shunt test, i then block (pinch)
the Fuel return line at the Fuel press. regulator.
i see 60psi, the pump is good. (do only for 5seconds ) (2 man test)
i see 10psi, the pump is bad ( of i have 12v at pump cranking,.....)
all this are pump tests there are 6 tests. not counting the injector balance test.
this is my order you can do it backwards, but will most the time have to start over, and cuss a $200 pump change , in vain.
here is the scotty way.
wont start, spark is good, tuneup done. sparks all 4 are wet
this is called flooding, the operators guide, says.
crank with the throttle open (WOT) car starts, it was flooded.
can happen in N.Canana (especially summer fuel in tank)
now car runs find and fresh fuel , 10 x better.
if no , post car keeps flooding, we can work that too.
is fuel pressure at 60psi, bingo, ask.
wow no year stated or engine option,,,,, a hard row to hoe....... the pump dont create spark but all cars cut fuel if there is no spark. for , fire safety. fix spark first. ignore all other symptoms. Cranks but does not spark is the #1 symptom. 2nd is no spark, i guess that means at all spark plugs and not one? what engine do you have,, Esteems dont come one just 1 engine. so discover that engine, code, like G16 or J18? The G16 has distributor, the J18 has COP coils x4 apples and oranges different.
So i will answer non specifically. When you crank, does the tachometer needle move about 300 rpm? with the scan tool do you see DTC errors as you crank for 5 seconds> release key and look? with key still on>? P0340s 355s? etc>? when cranking does the scan tool show RPM? moving up scale? if car is 96 or newer year, the car has 2 devices that makes spark one is CMP and the other is CKP. on the G16 engines, it only needs CMP to make spark ( then ignitor, then coil, the distributor.) did you change you G16 timing belt at 60k miles>? if not it may not generate spark due to the dizzy timing is way off now. the J18 engine has no Dizzy (distributor) it has COP. aka: DIS Distributorless ignition System The car has CMP on the back side of the left cam. It can go dead, but the ECU will tell you this fact of you use as scan tool in the proper way, the proper way is to crank for 5 seconds, and release key and look for stored codes. do not turn key off, until you scan for DTCs live, in memory or pending. The J18 has 4 COPs check each for spark, not just one. you can swap the bad ones around , and see if its bad. post engine size and year, and you'd be amazed at better posts.
all fuses good, using ohm meter tests in hand. or better 12v on both ends of fuse key on? K12a, 16valves, DOHC, chain cam motor.) well you are on track, no spark, that be real. huh> the immo (slang for UK immobilizer) for other readers. so not TDC codes, but that is not all there is, you can attach a scan tool and see if you have CMP/CKP sigs, and RPM cranking. crank for 5 seconds to see if these critical to spark parts are in fact working. single distrib? (the 2 forms of k12a ) a= real japan engine not china. new cap, new rotor, , no china rotors that mount backwards allowed.? do you have schematic of your engine EFI? you really need that, or finding problems can be very hard. in usa we have 3 major sources here , all on line, to get that fast. do you? have that in UK? do you have a suz, dealer? with shop man? we have mitchells,alldata, and chiltons all on line for this. we also have the for free in public libs here... diagnosis. (ill assume its flooding) prevents fire and ring damage. 1: i cut the fuel pump by pulling FP relay. 2: then check spark,,if spark is bad to all 4 spark plugs, that's right 4. then check spark directly at the COIL, some cars have hidden coil.and can be checked, ask. if spark is bad at coil, HV terminal. then check for Ignitor drive pulses. if good then coils is bad. (good input, bad output, bad coil) if the ignitor is dead, check its input, if input bad , ECU is not sending inputs. this can happen for only few reasons. in no order. 1: bad ecu 2: no cmp or ckp signals. 3: lost power to ECU, fuses, IF car has dash tachometer, is it dead, cranking , no 300 rpm cranking? scan too. RPM dead. cranking. no CMP /CKP errors cranking from ECU DTC, ERRORS ON SAME.? That is how i do this, and never fail. better is: 1: compression good? 2: spark good and timed 3: good fueling? you fail #2 (lets work that)
Sounds like a failing crank or cam sensor; does the car have spark? Remove the main lead from the coil and position near a grounded piece of clean metal, place it @ 1/4" away and crank engine over for 2-3 seconds and watch for spark; if nothing it will give you some direction. If there is spark check for fuel injector pulse; rent some NOID lights from Autozone or such and unplug one injector and plug in NOID light and crank over for 3-4 seconds if you get a pulse of light the injector pulse should be ok. Next area I'd check is fuel pump, you'll need to check for fuel pressure, some special tools needed here plus your working with gasoline, take care of no spark/no flame. You may be able to listen for your fuel pump...turn off items such as fan, radio and such, make it quiet crank over motor for 2-3 seconds listen for a click (that would be your fuel pump relay and when you let go of your key you should hear the fuel pump run for just a brief second, I expect pump in the tank.
One of these I hope should get you in the proper direction.
I hope this may have helped you,
You said you changed the ecm module, is that the ecm or the ignition module. Do you have access to a scanner to check cranking rpm? That way you can test the new crank sensor and the wiring and the ignition module.