Question about 1999 Ford Taurus

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Rear pass wheel locked up.sounds like somethings dragging &being crushed. will go into every gear but only goes 2 inches and stops

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Sounds like a problem with the brakes, if it's drum brakes one or more of the springs probably rotted and broke of, and got wedged betweed the brake shoe and the drum in which case you will need to buy a brake drum hardware kit and replace the springs, I would also replace the self adjuster while doing the job as brake drums are a pain so do everything all at once. If it is disk brakes your caliper is probably locked up, open the bleeder screw and try to get the caliper off, tap the piston back in and reinstall, sometimes this will free them up, if not you will have to replace the caliper.

Posted on Mar 31, 2011


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Why does my 4 wheel drive not work all the time?


not work, do tell what makes you think it dont work (a lamp) or tires slipping or dead tires. (by tires mean that and traction)??????????

what mode fails, of the many, and where.???????

first off, we dont know what your tires are touching.

on road, or off road. pavement or ICE or snow.

that matters big time . (you read manual and match MODE to Road)

your lost operators guide explains all that, right?

eg: how and when to use, 4wd, its all there. I promise.

ControlTrac 4-wheel-drive system

here are the mode. which one , gives you problems.

quote ford with comments.

What are the modes, and how do they differ?

(note this is the operational behavior of a 2008 Ford Expedition. Newer and older Expeditions will vary only slightly)

2H 2-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Rear-wheel-drive capability,

2-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled

4A 4-wheel-drive Auto with high range gearing (1.00:1) Full-time all-wheel-drive capability, ((best on pavement or any time)

Electronically adjusted torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically variable center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft allowed rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled

4H 4-wheel-drive with high range gearing (1.00:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (not for dry pavement EVER)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled

4L 4-wheel-drive with low range gearing (2.64:1) Part-time 4-wheel-drive capability, (off road usage, mostly)

Continuous 50/50 torque split to front & rear wheels, Electronically locked center differential,

Front driveshaft & rear primary driveshaft mechanically locked with no rotational speed difference,

4-wheel electronic traction control system is enabled, ESC and RSC are disabled

In 4A mode the center differential is electronically-controlled and rear drive wheel bias. The on-board computer monitors for any sign of rear drive wheel slip (loss of traction)

If loss of traction is detected, the center differential is told to send a share of the engine\'s torque to the front drive wheels. It will not let the front driveshaft turn at the same speed as the rear driveshaft.

What about traction management?

1997-2002 model Ford Expeditions offered an optional limited-slip rear differential (LSD). A conventional open rear differential was standard along with the conventional open front differential and the electronic locking center differential.

comment with out LSD, one tire can spin, on say ice.

but the other 3 tires dont, in full time.

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1 Answer

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weird this because two wheel drive is rear drive only??? wonder if vehicle has a diff lock and something is wrong with this when 4wd is engaged

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Torque specs on rear differential. And proper installation procedures on the crush sleeve

Put it together without the seal in place, you may have to take it apart again. You want to have about 8-10 inch pounds of preload on new bearings, less on used probably just a light drag. I recommend using a 3/4 in drive socket and ratchet and you have to hold the yoke somehow, a pipe wrench works but it's kind of crude. Put a little oil on the bearings and on the threads, if you have a new nut, save it for your final assembly. It's best to have helper because you really have to pull on the wrench to get the crush started. Once the sleave starts crush it gets easier, tighten the nut until the the end play is gone, check it frequently and spin it occasionaly as you tighten the nut. Once the free play is gone and the pinion still spins freely carefully continue to tighten the nut until you feel drag on the shaft. You need a dial type inch pound torque wrench to check the preload not a click type. If you don't have a torque wrench you can do it by feel it should take a little effort to turn the shaft you should be able to turn it by hand. Once you confident you have the right preload you may want to put the ring gear in and check the backlash and wear patern. If you are just replacing the bearings you shouldn't have any trouble. If you are changing the gears you could run into all kinds of problems and may need to seek a pro to help. If the gears are not set up right they will make noise and the gears won't last. Once you sure you have everthing right remove the pinion nut and yoke and put in the new seal. Clean the oil from the threads with brake parts cleaner and put some blue lock tight on the thread. Install the yoke and the new nut using care not to crush the sleave anymore but, at the same time make sure it's tight. I hope this helps, good luck.

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