Question about 2007 Mazda Tribute

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I have mazda tribute o7 automatic v6 i encountred in my tribat ute poor engine performance and it appears check engine in my dash board.what will i do?wat will be the reason check engine appear?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 MAZDA TRIBUTE COLD STARTING PROBLEM

My wifes car had this same problem at about 100000 miles and after many trips to the shop it turned out to be carbor build up in the intake manifold. A fuel injector cleaner was hooked up and it helped the problem, but did not completely solve it. In oreder to get it totally clean the intake had to be removed and clean it out manually.

Posted on Jan 20, 2009

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SOURCE: sparkplugs are due for replacement mazda tribute v6

Get all your tools ready and a few styrofoam cups to keep the bolts organized and labeled for re-assembly. Have a pencil and tablet handy for notes while doing the take-down. Forgive me if I can't name all the parts. I'm not a mechanic but I was able to successfully replace all six plugs. The key is to keep track of each part you pull & replace it in the reverse order. Number the cups with a marker 1,2,3,4,5.

You'll need a metric socket set,
a spark plug socket and a deep 8mm socket
A flat/slot bladed screw driver will also be handy.
A roll of tape to use as labels

In short, here are the abbreviated steps:
Disconnect the battery
Remove the engine cowling
Disconnect the throttle cable(s)
Remove the ribbed air intake hose
Disconnect the two black wire sockets on the throttle intake
Disconnect the two wire sockets at the top-left of the engine
Disconnect the three hoses in the back/center
Disconnect the solid pipe (saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold
Disconnect the instrument which is behind the solid pipe/saucer
Disconnect one hose from just in front of the master cylinder (brake fluid reservoir)
Remove four long screws at the corners of the manifold
Loosen eight screws keeping the manifold in place (these are captive)
Remove the manifold
Remove each screw holding the spark plug caps in place
Remove each of the spark plug caps
Remove and replace each of the spark plugs

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Now the more descriptive version:
Disconnect the positive terminal on the battery and set it off to the side. This is primarily for safety reasons.

Remove the three nuts from the cowling, pull it and set it aside with the three nuts in cup#1. You'll see the three forward spark plug caps now but WAIT until you have the back three also viewable.

Find the throttle cable(s) on the top and the throttle itself with a circular spring. Rotate it counter-clockwise to slacken the cable and disconnect it, and the secondary line/cable it is attached to. I don't know what the heck it is but it's plastic so be careful not to snap it. Remove the three screws keeping the throttle cables attached to the manifold and keep them in cup#2. There is one short gold colored screw on the left bracket and two longer silver colored screws on the right bracket. Flip the throttle cable up and to the left to get it out of the way.

Next, pull the ribbed air intake hose by loosening both the screw clamps and pop-out the sensor line on the top of the hose
Pull the larger end down and rotate it toward you to remove. Again, set it safely aside.

Since the ribbed hose is near the throttle body, go ahead and disconnect the two wire sockets from the throttle body. They'll be immediately to the left of where the ribbed intake hose attaches. These are easy to access when the intake hose is off but tricky while it's still installed.

Disconnect the two wire plug sockets (one black, one gray) at the top-left of the manifold. Once the sockets are separated, use the flat screw driver to pry/nudge the plastic retainers from the holes keeping the sockets attached to the manifold. Otherwise they'll snag when pulling the manifold.

Disconnect the three hoses on the rear-center of the manifold and label these with a piece of tape as L-C-R. One each for Left, Center, Right.

Disconnect the solid pipe (looks like a saucer on top) on the right side of the manifold by removing the two bolts keeping it's bracket in place. Keep the bolts in cup#3. The Pipe will pull slightly away from the manifold but you will NOT be able to completely pull it out. It will stay in place and you'll eventually see the total length after the manifold comes off. There is also a small gasket around the pipe; leave it in place and tape it down for safekeeping while you're working. Remove the tape when you're reassembling.

Disconnect the instrument behind the solid pipe. (Sorry, I don't know what it's called) First remove the front bracket bolt and put it in cup#4. The rear bolt is a combination set and is a little tricky. Remove the outward nut first and again use cup#4. Next use a deep metric socket to remove the remainder of the bolt and use cup#4. Basically this is a bolt with a permanent nut in the middle and uses a second nut on the end to retain two different parts. You'll see what I mean. This keeps 3 pieces in cup#4 but they all go to the same place.

Next, look to the top-right of the engine and find the master cylinder. (This is where you would add brake fluid if needed). You'll see a hose running from just in front of this area (NOT on the master cylinder itself) down to the manifold with a plastic clip on top keeping it attached. Depress the clip and disconnect the hose.

Now you're finally ready to tackle the intake manifold itself. There are 12 bolts keeping this in place (8 short captive bolts that won't come off, and 4 long bolts with small captive washers).
Look around the manifold top and locate the bolt heads. Use a socket with extension to loosen each bolt. You'll soon determine which bolts in the corner will come out. The other eight will NOT lift out and have larger washers.

Gently lift the manifold up, to the left and toward the front of the car. Make sure to check that nothing is still connected and keeping it in place. Watch the solid pipe, on the right, slide out of the manifold and be sure the gasket doesn't get lost! Carefully, place the manifold off to the side.

You should now see both the front three and the rear three spark plug caps, with six rectangular holes in the top of the engine. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP ANYTHING DOWN THESE HOLES!!!!! It would be a good idea to cover these up with duct tape while you're working on removing the caps, bolts and finally the spark plugs.

Unclip the ignition wires from the plug caps. Then remove the bolts retaining the caps and place these in cup#5. MAKE SURE NOT TO DROP ANY DOWN INTO THE CYLINDER HOLES.

Pull up the caps slowly with firm force. Do NOT **** them. Some may be stubborn to come off so use steadily increasing force until they pop off the spark plugs and come freely out of the recessed holes.
You'll need a very long socket extension to reach the spark plugs. Replace the plugs with the platinum tipped variety. I doubt you'll want to go through all this again soon to save $10 on parts.

That's IT! Now work backward, replacing or reconnecting parts in the reverse order as you pulled them. Cross each item off as you work backward. Remember to reconnect the battery terminal and test start the car.

Tada !!!! You've just saved yourself a costly maintenance cost and are good for another 100k miles.

Posted on Feb 22, 2009

  • 64 Answers

SOURCE: Transmission maintenance

Service trans every 2 years or 24,000 miles.Buy a trans filter kit,remove trans oil pan,replace or clean filter(some tranys has a wire mesh screen in them that is cleaned,not replaced),replace oil pan & refill with recommended amount & proper type of fluid.REMEMBER THIS:CLEANLINESS IS GODLINESS WHEN WORKING ON AUTO TRANS,DON'T LEAVE ANY PIECES OF RAGS OR ANY OTHER MATERIAL INSIDE OF TRANS!!!

Posted on Mar 28, 2009

highspeedsan
  • 61 Answers

SOURCE: spark plugs

Each plug has it's own coil. There will be 3 coils mounted on each side of the engine. They are located under the coils. You may have to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs. Big job, may want to consider going to the dealer. Probably about a $450 repair(ouch).

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

ghassun
  • 499 Answers

SOURCE: My mazda error codes P0300 and P0302 what does this mean!!!

man read this and u will know what is ur problem and how to fix it
P0300 Code - Random Misfire What does that mean? A P0300 OBD DTC code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.
Symptoms may include:

  • the engine may be harder to start
  • the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
  • other symptoms may also be present
CausesA code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plugs or wires
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector(s)
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
  • Faulty camshaft position sensor
  • Defective computer
Possible SolutionsIf there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.

P0302 Code - Cylinder #2 Misfire
What does that mean?
A P0302 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #2
SymptomsSymptoms may include:
  • the engine may be harder to start
  • the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
  • other symptoms may also be present
SymptomsSymptoms may include:
  • the engine may be harder to start
  • the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
  • other symptoms may also be present
CausesA code P0302 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plug or wire
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Running out of fuel
  • Poor compression
  • Defective computer
Possible SolutionsIf there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

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