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ck the simple things first , like the fuses , both under hood and under dash , then look 4 the fuel pump cut off switch , sometimes called the roll over switch , its usually in side panel at back , make sure its not tripped or bad , also something ill look for from now on , as it recently caused me a few hours of time , was to see if all the air bags are plugged in , seems cars have to have there air bags plugged in to run nowadays
I have an 01 525i and it would give me the same hard start, then idle a little and die unless i revved it up a little to keep it going but it still ran shaky.. I scan it and only get a code 44 vent solenoid and sometimes misfire codes. I clear them and it smooths out a little but anyways, getting to the point, depending on what year yours is there is a little fuse pack in there with the dme relay and fuel pump relay. they are stacked one on top of the other, should be 30a,30a,20a,30a,30a. you want to make sure these fuses are good. Even more important then that is to make sure that they are making good connection. Maybe the fuses need to be beefed up or buffered a little bit due to the motor swap(not sure just throwing that out there)... when mine finally died i found one of the above fuses blown. changed the fuse and still no start so i had to go into all the connectors in that area and tighten them up so the fuse would fit nice and snug, after making sure battery was fully charged it started right up and I havent had a problem since.(I think the fuse got loose over time then finally shorted somehow)(these relays/fuses are under the hood, pass side in plenum under cabin air filter) There also should be some in the trunk you would want to double check (corrosion can build up in trunk area) Finally, not having evaluated your car personally, the best I can recommend is to focus on the pass side from under the cabin filter in the plenum to the inside of the car (still pass. side) in and behind the glove box. all it takes is one little pin, just barely losing connection to start all kinds of issues. any info/input from you would be well received. I hope this helps
-Tim
Check the fuses under the dash board. If there fine, sometimes Ford has a secondary type of fuse box located next to fuse box itself under the dash board called an Indicator Warning System Control. (small little box right next to it, sometimes white). If it's loose it could cause instrument cluster to malfuncation. push on it make sure it's secure.
Had this, fixed today, the solution is corrupted wiring at two spots.
1) Under the center of the driver seat, in the plastic sheath (that is only taped closed), you'll see four tan with white stripe wires connected with with a little white splicer... cut it out, splice together. This is the serial data lines.
2) Also fixed, cause it was corrupted, yellow wires connector box inside the wiring canal box underneath the carpet and along the driver's side door. 8 yellow wires connected into a little plastic box... clean the contacts.
check and see if the main fuse box under the hood is grounded good there is a ground wire just make sure it's tight also you might look at the battery wires and see if they are tight or coroated. An then you could need a set of plugs.
If the cigarette lighter does not stick when you push the lighter in then this is the step to take. The prongs inside the lighter adapter have been pushed too far out. ( This happens if you plug other electronics like satellite radio or radar detectors) First, you MUST take out the fuse from the fuse box located under in the glove box. Second, look inside the lighter adapter (not the lighter) you will see two prongs that are supposed to be flared a bit inward. Simply get a small flat head screwdriver and pick the prongs outward but not too much. Do test trials with the lighter to ensure the lighter sticks. Plug the fuse back in and your lighter will be good as new. -Pete
Hi, without testing the car, and knowing miealge on car, ill guess coil is faulty or you can go to any large parts store the new franchise type. They will come out and put a tester on usually free and just might save you a lot of money, before a mechanic tells you to rebuild the motor for 3,000. Good luck to you! Frankie!
sounds like the earth on the fuse box but i could be totally wrong ,if all goes off whilst driving including the dash lights then check earth on fuse box.as the factory immobiliser uses this system too of cutting of the earth for the immobiliser.and i am not allowed to give this information out in case any little thieving boy racers want to go joy riding in someone elses car .take car to dealer and ask for it to be checked out.
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