Question about 1998 Ford Explorer

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When starting it sounds like it is puttering and then stalls out. If I try to start it again, it wont start. Almost like it is flooded. I have a 1998 ford explorer with a little over 117,000 miles on it. Any idea as to what may be happening would be helpful. Thank you

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I just had a new alternator put in my 1998 Ford Explorer and a brand new battery but today I went to leave and it wont start. All I hear is a clicking noise all the time even when off.

Posted on May 01, 2011

  • choward215 May 07, 2011

    Does your theft light flash rapidly?

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I've got the same (1998 exploder). Someone went through the neighborhood trying to syphon gas. My truck started then sputtered out and now wont start. Gas is showing half tank plus I added 2 gallons Spark is good and gas pressure is reading 40psi(normal). Everyone else's including my 2005 Chrysler Pacifica started. I need help. Did you find something out that may help?

Posted on Apr 27, 2011

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Compression, spark , timing , fuel for any engine to run. Don't forget a stopped up catalytic convertor will have the same effect as you described. Backfiring of course is fouled plugs, bad plug wires, look for arcing from wires when it is dark outside. If it has a distributor check for cracked cap, had my 91 GMC start backfiring then die due to ignition module inside distributor going bad. It would start back up after it cooled for about 10 minutes.

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stalls (or misfires) tune up time, ever heard of a 60k mile service?
and get and injector balance test, sounds like they leak,
and the starts are doing so from the flooded state.

no crank.
repeat that again. the key switch has many posisitions
no (this era) car cranks, in the non run or start position so?
my guess, is the start position (spring loaded it is) is intermittant
and when starting you wiggle key , in the ST posistion and the starter
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with huge key rings, (heavy)
if car is A/T tranny, wiggle the shifter any time it dont crank
and, try starting in Neutral (fresh switch contacts there)

Stalls is a 2nd symptom and if the dash lights dont die.
then is not related to the ignition key switch.
that is the 12vdc power system is good and the EFI/engine has issues
try a tune up first. (its in the operators guide read that)

after tune up and drive 20-50 miles
now using any newer OBD2 scan tool scan the PCM.
got DTC'S? post them. DTC are ERRORS.

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.When the injectors leak they flood the engine and holding pedal to the floor or waiting hours for fuel to dissipate. See if you have spark and fuel when it wont run. If there is no spark check the electronic control module under the cap

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