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My 65 mustang would not turn off. I pulled coil wire to stop the car. Now the car cranks but does not turnover. Please advise

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Sounds like you have a bad ignition switch OR there is a short in the wires from it.

Posted on Mar 31, 2011

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1 Answer

Is there a coil fuse in a 65 mustang


no the wire going to it goes hot when the key is turned on. there may be a fuse under dash that supplies the engine tho, if there is no other probs a wire from battery to plus side of coil should start it. but don't leave the wire on it when not running except to try and start it as you will over heat the coil

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Oil smells like gas


Sounds like the engine has been flooded with gas due to excessive cranking which drained past the cold piston rings into oil crankcase. You have fuel & air but you do not have spark. 3 things come to mind: spark plugs, spark plug wires and ignition coils. Coils are on top with spark plug wires coming off them. Best of luck.

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I'm trying to remove my 02 lancer ls car alarm. I've removed the box and all the wires that was connected to the box but my car still will not start. I've even replaced the starter and it still won't...


The alarm had a wire to not let the car turnover/crank, is that what you mean, or the car turnsover/cranks, but wont run. If it wont turnover, usually its a larger wire that was cut and the alarm wired in, you will need to get this wire reconnected again. I dont have a diagram here to tell you the wire color, but usually its a 10-12 gauge wire. So if you have a 2 wires the same color, and its cut, connect them back again.

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This vintage of ford electronic ignition systems had a common problem with the ignition modules and the pick-up inside the distributor. I would replace both just because they're overdue and I wouldn't want to risk getting stranded somewhere.

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Firing order for 1966 ford mustang 200 cubic inch


The engine is a 200 CID straight six, the firing order is 153624...

21a4dc6.jpg

Just pop the distributor cap and have someone crank the engine while you watch the rotor.

How I can determine which hole in the distributor is assigned to the #1 plug wire.
Pull the number one plug. Turn the engine over slowly (with a wrench) while holding your finger over the plug hole. When the air builds (a lot of) pressure you are coming up to the number one spot on the distributor. (the rotor will point to the location of the #1 hole in the distributor.)

Quick methods to disable the engine I have seen people do on the classics:
Close the points by loosening the set screw
Pull the rotor cap
Connect a wire from the coil to ground. (effectively closes the points. Can damage the coil if key is left on.)
Pull the main ignition wire
And there are some tricks at the starter solonoid involving the ballast resistor bypass that is used to provide a hotter spark while cranking. (Two little wires at the starter solonoid - one is crank the other is the ballast bypass.)

Might give those a look-see. Best of luck (rememeber rated this help).

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1 Answer

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have you checked fuel pressure yet. This should have been the first thing done.

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So does he have spark at the distributor but not at the plugs? I'm not sure what you mean by fire coming in but not coming out. I build alot of these cars.

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