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Yes, the sensor is usually near the oil filter. It takes a big deep well socket. 19 or 21mm, something like that. I have pasted the procedure below. The sensor looks like the picture below.
Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
Remove the 4 splash shield bolts.
Remove the splash shield.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the oil pressure sensor/switch.
Remove the oil pressure sensor/switch.
Use a catch basin to catch escaping oil.
Replacement components must be the correct part number for the application. Components requiring the use of the thread locking compound, lubricants, corrosion inhibitors, or sealants are identified in the service procedure. Some replacement components may come with these coatings already applied. Do not use these coatings on components unless specified. These coatings can affect the final torque, which may affect the operation of the component. Use the correct torque specification when installing components in order to avoid damage.
Install the oil pressure sensor/switch. Tighten to 30ft.lbs. (40 Nm).
Connect the electrical connector to the oil pressure sensor/switch.
Install the splash shield.
Install the 4 splash shield bolts and tighten the splash shield screws until fully seated, do not over tighten.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the oil pressure sensor.
Using J 41712 or equivalent, remove the oil pressure sensor from the fitting.
NOTE: Note the orientation of the oil pressure sensor fitting before attempting to remove it. This is so it can be installed in the original position.
Remove the oil pressure sensor fitting, if necessary.
To Install: NOTE: If the fitting has been removed, clean and apply sealant to the threads before installing it.
Install the fitting until snug, if it was removed.
Tighten the fitting to 11 lb ft (15 Nm). Continue to tighten the fitting until in the original position.
Apply sealant to the threads of the sensor.
Install and tighten the sensor to 22 lb ft (30 Nm).
Connect the electrical connector to the oil pressure sensor.
Install the distributor.
Check the engine oil level and adjust if necessary.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Drain the engine oil.
Remove the oil dipstick.
If necessary remove the exhaust pipe crossover.
If equipped with automatic transmission, remove the converter housing pan and the transmission oil cooler line retainer from the bracket.
On 1996-98 models, remove the oil filter and if equipped, the oil filter adapter.
If necessary, remove the starter brace and bolt and swing the starter aside.
Remove the strut rods, if equipped.
Remove the oil pan and discard the gaskets.
Apply a suitable sealant such as GM part number 12346192 or its equivalent to the front cover-to-block joint and to the rear crankshaft seal-to-block joint. Apply the sealant about 1 inch (25mm) in both directions from each of the four corners.
Clean all gasket surfaces and use new gaskets to assemble.
Install new gasket and seals.
Install the oil pan.
On 1988-95 models, tighten the pan bolts to 100 inch lbs. (11 Nm). Tighten the pan nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
On 1996-98 models, tighten the oil pan nuts and bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the strut rods, if equipped.
If removed, install starter, starter brace and bolt.
If equipped, install the oil filter adapter.
If removed, install the oil filter.
If equipped with automatic transmission, install the converter housing pan and the transmission oil cooler line retainer to the bracket.
if the motor is still jacked up, you are in luck...as you know it'll only fir one way...some people use a new gasket and rv sealant, letting it /gasket compound (in a tube) and some just use a good bead of rv sealant on only the pan, allowing it to "set up" a bit-maybe semi firm before placing it on the engine block...don't forget to clean all surfaces good---don't overtighten the bolts and do alternate the sequence of tightening....check out autozone.com repair guide for pics and good instructions....hope you find this helpful
The knock sensors there are two of them.
They are under the intake in the middle of the block on the Vally pan, hard to miss them when intake is off. You need new intake gaskets when installing intake again. You should use new intake bolts but if use LOCK TITE on old bolts you should be OK.
Tighten bolts first pass to 44 lb in then a final pass of 89 lb in. ( lb in NOT lb ft
Knock sensors to 15 lb ft..
Gasket = $35 (permatex rubber)
Labor - my manual says 3 hours.
You'll have to be responsible for figuring out the labor price per hour depending on where you are located.
In MI, a garage is about $50/hr, and dealership = $85/hr
CA might be $95/$150/hr.
Parts are minimal on the job - its all labor.
Figure in about $20 for shop supplies... gasket remover, sealant, rags, etc.
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