Question about 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

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Fuel line headed towards motor meeting flexible hose. is the metal fuel line threaded with orings?

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All newer GM models use a quick connect fitting for the fuel lines. They are not threaded and do not have a replaceable o-ring. You can buy a cheap set of disconnect tools from any auto parts store or sears. Another option would be to buy them on line. The cheaper tools usually do not work the greatest. One solution I have used is to make a small strip of sheetmetal and wrap it around the metal line. Using a pliers you can press the sheetmetal into the quick connect while pushing the flexible line towards the metal tubing. Once the sheetmetal engages inside the quick connect, pull the hose off. Be careful with the sheetmetal, because it can be sharp. I would recommend buying the more expensive removal tools, especially if this is something you do more than once.

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • hugalotbear Mar 28, 2011

    one question when you say newer models how far back are you refering to



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I have a 2006 Colorado truck with a strong gas smell out side the truck can you assist me

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I need the rubber boots or vaccum lines that go from the carburator to the head or lower engine! But i do not know how to order them because i dont know what there called

Some rubber vacuum hose elbows & such, are in auto parts
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On a carburated motor, you use EEC Vacuum Hose
(Evaporative Emission Control)---not washer hose

The larger 3/8" hose-- you use EEC or Fuel Line Hose

It doesn't have to meet fuel injected standard, but either
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Diagnostic trouble code P00087

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.

If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.

Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:

•Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
•Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
•If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed at
•Use worm type hose clamps (use double clamps on each end) to attach the replacement hose to the existing pipe.
The locations of the flexible hoses are pictured below.

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Looking for a picture of back brake system for a 1999 ford f-150

Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.

Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.

The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.

The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.

The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)

You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.

You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.

Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.

I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.

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You can replace this hose by rloosing the 2 clamps
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3 Answers

Fuel filter replacement attempt

Try spraying it with some penetrating oil and allow to soak in for about 15 minutes and give it another try. This can soak into the threads to apply lubrication and help free up corrosion so that you may remove it.

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1 Answer

Fuel line

get a gas line removal tool take apart and replace Oring

Feb 13, 2018 | 1992 Dodge Dynasty

1 Answer

Truck will not idle

first check to be sure the fuel filter from the gas tank which feeds into the fuel pump isn't restricting fuel flow, replace if needed (its under where you fill the gas tank in front of the right rear tire, you may find it easier to remove the protective bracket for access). Place the hose end from the pump going to the engine(crawl underneath and look for steel line heading to the front of the car on inside frame rail) into a glass jar and have a friend turn the key part way to turn on the pump, only for a couple of seconds without starting engine and wear eye protection and work from outside of the truck, you should see a strong flow. If that is all good, check the small fuel filter that is located in the carburetor where the fuel line attaches.This is located on the front (assuming 2.4 4 cyl.) of the carb. Disconnect the battery negative cable. Remove the air cleaner and take careful note of the vacuum lines connected to the unit, you will have to loosen 4 breather type hoses as well as the air intake line and the exhaust pre-heater, use a variety of Phillip heads screwdrivers at different lengths (a stubby and extra long help a lot).Place a cloth over the carb butterfly so you don't drop anything into it.Loosen the clamps that hold on the (two?) intermediate flexible fuel line below carb, it will need to be able to move up to get the fuel line connector off. Remove the locking bracket holding the 5 sides of the fuel line bolt head which prevents loosening of the fuel line connection, note the location of the brackets hold down screw to use as a guide for reinstalling, you may need to give the hold down bracket screw a sharp wrap with a hammer and screwdriver and/or penetrating oil to help break it loose, use the largest screwdriver you can and do not strip out the head. Scribe a reference line on top of the connector bolt to aid in reinstallation, use a socket wrench for removal. You will notice a slight cut out(circular) in the rim of the Carb above the fuel line that allows for removal. Carefully pull up and angle toward you with a gentle rocking motion to get it out. Go slowly and don't force it or you will break the fuel filter inside which is a dime size plastic cylinder with a fine mesh screen, take your time, it can be done!. Once out, carefully clean the screen without ripping or placing a hole in it, I use a jewelers screwdriver (a cuticle tool would be better) keeping parallel with the screen and then wash out with gas. You will need to clean the 8 surfaces of the connection(2 washers for 4 sides, 2 sides of connector, base and bolt head) before replacement. Do not use metal to clean, only things like scotch bright pads or you could scratch the surfaces causing a leak that would result in an engine fire! Tighten back down firmly, it may make a creaking sound when you're close, check for the scribe mark you made aligning as before and check to see if the lock down bracket will go back on as before removal, fine tune to fit. You don't want to damage the bolt or the threads in the carb so a drop of oil on the bolt threads is a good idea. Tighten down locking bracket. Reconnect battery cable. Turn on the ignition far enough to start the fuel pump but don't crank the motor, do it two or three times. Check for fuel leakage at the connection. If dry, replace the air cleaner and tighten all large hoses and vacuum lines (look around, you can accidentally disconnect things far away from the air cleaner housing). It's a pain in the rear, but, you'll get it. Next, with fire extinguisher on hand, block off a tire on both sides, set E-Brake, put in neutral, foot on brake start the engine and immeadiatly check for fuel leakage using a flashlight, its hidden from view under the air cleaner. Run the motor for awhile and keep checking for fuel leakage. If you don't see any run the motor at varying speeds and recheck for leakage. You're probably good if it passes the first test, but, better safe than sorry. Drive a short distance and recheck for fuel leakage. Good luck!

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