Question about 2001 Oldsmobile Alero

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Fuel line headed towards motor meeting flexible hose. is the metal fuel line threaded with orings?

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All newer GM models use a quick connect fitting for the fuel lines. They are not threaded and do not have a replaceable o-ring. You can buy a cheap set of disconnect tools from any auto parts store or sears. Another option would be to buy them on line. The cheaper tools usually do not work the greatest. One solution I have used is to make a small strip of sheetmetal and wrap it around the metal line. Using a pliers you can press the sheetmetal into the quick connect while pushing the flexible line towards the metal tubing. Once the sheetmetal engages inside the quick connect, pull the hose off. Be careful with the sheetmetal, because it can be sharp. I would recommend buying the more expensive removal tools, especially if this is something you do more than once.

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

  • hugalotbear Mar 28, 2011

    one question when you say newer models how far back are you refering to

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I have a 2006 Colorado truck with a strong gas smell out side the truck can you assist me


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On a carburated motor, you use EEC Vacuum Hose
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The larger 3/8" hose-- you use EEC or Fuel Line Hose

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Diagnostic trouble code P00087


The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A dealer may need to perform a repair on the rubber portion of the fuel supply (suction) lines. The rubber section of the line could become kinked or collapse. Fuel lines that kink or collapse may induce a fuel system restriction (high vacuum gauge readings) or DTCs P0087, P0093, and/or P1093 to set.

If a technician was to suspect the rubber portion of the fuel feed line collapsing or kinking, replacement of only the rubber line is acceptable.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the steps below to repair the rubber section of fuel supply line:

•Carefully cut, split, and remove the OEM crimp from both ends of the flexible hose. These crimps can be cut with a small cut-off wheel. Split the crimp into two pieces (use your discretion on first cut location, then cut directly across from, or 180 degrees from first cut). Special care must be taken not to damage the flare on the end of the steel pipe that will be reused.
•Remove the OEM crimps and flexible portion of hose from the existing supply line.
•If replacing the rubber section of the supply line, a 1/2 ID hose meeting SAE specification 100R3 is suggested. Dealers may be able to find a local supplier for this hose, or can contact the manufacturer Parker Hannifin. The replacement hose would be a 1/2" diameter Parker part number 601-8 or H017-8. To find a local distributor the Parker website can be accessed at www.parker.com
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The locations of the flexible hoses are pictured below.

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Looking for a picture of back brake system for a 1999 ford f-150


Hello, I can tell you where everything is at. Did all my lines in Feb 2011. The rear lines on a F150 come from each rear wheel and they are rubber until the end of their brackets. Metal lines take over and meet at a vent tube holder on the Drivers side of the axle. An overhead rubber line with a splitter is bolted to a threaded vent tube and each rear wheel line fits in the brass block that is part of the Rubber line.

Each rear wheel line has a different size fitting to avoid mix ups. The brake line is the same diameter throughout. All use inverted flare fittings. It is a pain to get the fittings beforehand as they are mixed sizes.

The rubber line with a splitter meets a metal line topside of the frame around the frame hump for the rear wheels. The line is on rubber hangers as it travels toward the front of the truck and meets a metal union just short of the fuel filter. The metal line goes through the frame and tightly runs past the bottom of the Drivers fender and goes outside the frame until it meets the front wheelwell.

The same line crosses back into the inside of the frame and runs parallel with the frame, past the A arms and then ends up attaching to the ABS unit.

The Dealer probably does not have preformed lines. Every combination of bedsize and cabsize will determine how long some of the brake lines are. (Based on wheelbase.)

You have 2 choices. Get a preformed Stainless kit with front lines too, around $200. Make your own and spend hours assembling, bending, and flaring fittings after buying the line and the fittings.

You can go with cheap lines or use what I did, a copper/nickel mixed metal line that Volvo perfected with an extended salt corrosion resistance. It really is a job you only want to do once.
Gotta hand it to the brake mechanics who do it every day.

Here is a Summary. 2 Rubber hoses from each wheel, 2 metal lines to the threaded brass block on the vent tube. 1 rubber hose with the brass block. Then a long run of brakeline, then a connection around the fuel filter, and another long run of brakeline outside and back inside the frame to the ABS unit.

I wish you luck on this repair. I hope my Solution is very helpful.

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4 Answers

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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1 Answer

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Nicole,
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