Question about 2004 Saab 9-3

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Hi, I have a 06 Saab 93 (Sport) TDI recently in the middle of a journey it has started to lose power, eg when I go to move off from lights it's as if I'm in 5th gear, ( no blue smoke) back into neutral, try again and it's fine, so far. I have just had a new alternator fitted and to be honest it did'nt seem as smooth when it came back from garage, more sluggish when cold, (yet it was fine to start etc through last winter). I also have had it serviced by the AA within the last month. Could it be the Turbo or this split diaphram in the inlet manifold which I keep reading about ? I'm not that car savvy but i do try and maintain it by following all maintenance procedures oil/brake fluid etc. Thanks for your time in advance.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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saabreur
  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: rough idle on 1990 saab 900 convertible, 16V

Because the car has adaptive technology, it may take a while to reset and adjust to the new, cleaner and better conditions than those to which it had previously adapted.

Did you change the cap and rotor? if the plugs needed replacement, likely they do too

Possible other causes include:

loose or corroded connections to any electrical component you disturbed (make a checklist and tick them all off as you check them);

mis-reinstallation of any F.I. part disturbed(checklist again)

obstructed water flow through the AIC valve;

improper voltage output from the AIC valve (for LH 2.4 systems, should output 8 volt at idle, dropping as load increases; for LH 2.4.2 system output 7 volt at idle etc; testing between terminals)33 and 17 at disconnected LH connector;

possible problem with MAF.

Hope this helps

Saabreur







Posted on May 30, 2009

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  • 35 Answers

SOURCE: We purchased a 1998 Saab 900 SE Turbo for my son.

Hi!

I'm sad to hear that you're having so much trouble with the car :(

Your problem is (almost certainly) not related to the alternator or the starter.
Your engine seems to lack fuel, air or spark, either due to a clogged hose/valve somewhere or a quirky electrical connection/relay.

Have you made sure that the fuel pump is supplying sufficient pressure when the problem is present?
Can you hear the pump when turning on the ignition?
If the pump (and its relay) seems ok you should make sure you have spark when the problem is present. If there's no spark the problem should be easily traced, probably to a intermittently faulty sensor or a faulty coil.
If both fuel and spark check out ok there is probably something wrong with the air supply when attempting a warm-start.

The things mentioned above are things you can check out yourself without high costs or special tools (you'll need a multimeter if you want to check voltages, but that's a cheap tool that might come in handy).

Oh and the car also has a check valve to keep pressure in the fuel lines. These valves can cause problems similar to yours, so you might want to check it out.

Good luck mate!

Posted on Jul 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: I have a late 03 Saab 2.2 TiD

bridge seals on injector pump

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: saab 95 2002 3.0l v6 turbo. when warm, starts to

Have you had your mass air meter checked or replaced? This is the unit attached to the air intake hose behind your air filter. It senses the air temperature, speed, density, etc... and adjusts the fuel/air ratio to keep the vehicle running at "peak" performance. Also, check your TPS (throttle positioning sensor) it can also cause the problem you speak of. The TPS adjusts your engine speed/idle etc. and also compensates for hot/cold changes etc. This is roughly a $35.00 part and in most cases usually an easy fix.

Posted on Dec 12, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: 93 Vector Sport. Turbo keeps cutting out

very common issue with post 2001 turbos. the fault is usualy down to the air flow meter (mounted on the airbox or induction pipe). you will find its at its worst when warm. do not fall for a garage telling you the turbo has failed.

Posted on Jan 26, 2010

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