Question about 2007 Suzuki XL-7

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Scooter Thanks for getting back so quick. The company will send a replacement part for free. But I will probably have to get someone to put it on. I going to attempt to take off the outer "plate" just to see if I can see anything. It's just a few bolts. Then maybe if it is right in front of me I can get a neighbor to help with it.Ironic, trying to save money is actually costing me more money YIKES!! Thanks again and have a great day.

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Mj, check the manufacturer's web site, they may have diagrams, or how to replace the belt. I wouldn't think it would be real difficult, but of course if you don't have the tools, it can be 'interesting'. Hope u have some helpful neighbors--good luck!countrycurt0

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

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Fuel sending unit mazda millenia 1998


Well, yes the tank is under pressure at times, but the gauge problem is probably the sending unit.
Every few minutes the computer tries to vent the tank to the vapor canister and the engine which would be affected by the leaking gasket.
You will probably need to replace the sending unit and then you can fix the seal too. Once the seal is disturbed it usually does not fit the hole.

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HI, MY NAME IS DENISE Thurs. a.m. 10/21/10 - I HAVE A 1987 CHEVY S10 BLAZER, 2.8 L V6, 4WD, THAT HAS A TRANSMISSION FLUID LEAK BETWEEN THE TRANSFER CASE & TRANSMISSION. . THE...


Hello Denise, if you think you can do this, I can send you instructions to remove the transfer case and reseal the rear of the transmission. I know this may seem like an intimidating job but it can be quite easy. Once the t-case is out you replace the seal inside the back of the transmission and put everything back together. I am west coast so our hours are the same. Let me know where to send the all of the instructions. You can email me at iambanshee74@yahoo.com

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Mazda mx5 will not start, turns over but will not fire, have changed air flow sensor & camshaft sensor, electrician has used a diagnostic machine but no faults showing, he is leaning towards an...


I'd probably trying back-testing through the ignition circuit to see if you're getting power to your spark plugs, then the leads and so on...
Here's a quick check I use to cover the most common starting problems - however a faulty immobiliser is definitely a possibly (which isn't covered by this quick list)
1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter - you should have 12.5V or so across the terminals - any less than about 11.8 and you should think about a new battery.
2. Check that you're getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The light-dimming check should help you out on this one, however, we'll make doubly sure. Locate your starter motor and the solenoid (the solenoid will be wired to the starter motor - the circuit is basically battery, ignition key switch (and immobiliser in this case), solenoid and starter motor). Disconnect the ignition cable from the solenoid (this is the heavier cable) and put a multimeter from it to ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Get someone to turn the key to ON and check for 12V at the ignition cable. (Always put the car in neutral and the parking brake on etc...). If you don't get 12V here you've got a connectivity problem and need to trace your wiring back to your ignition switch and from there to the battery and try to find a poor connection or potential short - from the clicking sound this problem seems unlikely.

3. Now we want to test the starter motor to ensure it's OK. To do this, we need a large screwdriver with an nicely insulated handle. On the SOLENOID, you'll find to large electrical post connectors. Short across these with the screwdriver - be careful to only touch the handle or you're going to think someone has just kicked you in the groin...You should get some serious sparks and hear your starter motor whirring (don't let it run too long or you'll flatten your battery and possibly damage the starter motor). If your starter motor makes any nasty grinding kinds of noises, you need to replace or rebuild it. If it doesn't move, you need to replace it (or get it rebuilt). Sometimes you can 'rock' the car in gear to persuade the starter motor to move slightly and it will then turn for you.

4. If none of the other problem have suggested a component at fault, you probably have a faulty or 'sticky' solenoid. To check this, find which of the two heavy post connectors is connected to the starter motor. Place one probe of the multimeter in this wire and ground the other (metal on the chassis). Have someone turn the key (neutral and parking brake) and check the voltage. You should read 12V and hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid (this is the solenoid activating and sending power to the starter motor). If you're getting a low voltage and not hearing a clunk your solenoid is probably on it's way out and needs to be replaced. A quick fix that often works is to have your helper try to start the car and give the solenoid a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet. This might jar the mechanism loose and give the electromagnet a chance to pull it into the connecting position and power your starter motor.

Having a bit of a look through these things might point out a different problem in your ignition circuit - however the immobiliser is definitely a possibility and a place to start.
Hope this helps, Sherwin

Jan 13, 2010 | 2001 Mazda MX-5 Miata

1 Answer

My vehicle dont start .. i put key in n i turn to start it n it dont start


Here's a quick diagnostic check I use to try and figure out my starting issues - hope it helps somewhat - this has been copied from a solution I provided a couple of days back - whilst you're on here this is a pretty common question so you should be able to find lots of answers already lying around the site.
1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter - you should have 12.5V or so across the terminals - any less than about 11.8 and you should think about a new battery whilst you're at it. However, as it seems to start fine sometimes, I'm going to assume this is not the problem
2. Check that you're getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The light-dimming check should help you out on this one, however, we'll make doubly sure. Locate your starter motor and the solenoid (the solenoid will be wired to the starter motor - the circuit is basically battery, ignition key switch, solenoid and starter motor). Disconnect the ignition cable from the solenoid (this is the heavier cable) and put a multimeter from it to ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Get someone to turn the key to ON and check for 12V at the ignition cable. (Always put the car in neutral and the parking brake on etc...). If you don't get 12V here you've got an intermittent connectivity problem and need to trace your wiring back to your ignition switch and from there to the battery and try to find a poor connection or potential short.
3. Now we want to test the starter motor to ensure it's OK. To do this, we need a large screwdriver with an nicely insulated handle. On the SOLENOID, you'll find to large electrical post connectors. Short across these with the screwdriver - be careful to only touch the handle or you're going to think someone has just kicked you in the groin...You should get some serious sparks and hear your starter motor whirring (don't let it run too long or you'll flatten your battery and possibly damage the starter motor). If your starter motor makes any nasty grinding kinds of noises, you need to replace or rebuild it. If it doesn't move, you need to replace it (or get it rebuilt). Sometimes you can 'rock' the car in gear to persuade the starter motor to move slightly and it will then turn for you.
4. If none of the other problem have suggested a component at fault, you probably have a faulty or 'sticky' solenoid. To check this, find which of the two heavy post connectors is connected to the starter motor. Place one probe of the multimeter in this wire and ground the other (metal on the chassis). Have someone turn the key (neutral and parking brake) and check the voltage. You should read 12V and hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid (this is the solenoid activating and sending power to the starter motor). If you're getting a low voltage and not hearing a clunk your solenoid is probably on it's way out and needs to be replaced. A quick fix that often works is to have your helper try to start the car and give the solenoid a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet. This might jar the mechanism loose and give the electromagnet a chance to pull it into the connecting position and power your starter motor.

Hope this helps, Sherwin

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2 Answers

How to change a fuel pump yourself tip?


The fuel supply and return lines are probably in bad shape, I'd recommend replacing them with the neoprene fuel line replacements, with the quick disconnect, first replace your fuel filter( it's located on the drivers side rear near the rear wheel looks like a canister in the line) again the quick disconnect lines can be used here, it will make your life easier later, these are available at most autopart stores along with the union pieces to run new lines, you can buy the quick disconnects for about $20.00 for 18 inches of new line with the quick disconnect clip on one end and the union pieces to put the line back together. Make sure the fuel tank is near empty, unhook fuel lines from the tank loosen the straps enouph so you can reach up and unplug the sending unit, now carefully loosen the straps( be careful with the straps they can be reused) until you can work the tank out, remember you need to be careful of the fill tube, if you damage it you will need to wrap it in rubber hose more unecessary work if you are careful. BEFORE YOU DROP THE TANK CHECK THE FUSEABLE LINKS, they are only a couple bucks, ALSO REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER 1ST. these items are cheap and could be the cause of your problem, the fuel pump runs about $100 but the work involved is dirty and not fun. Before proforming any repairs like this on your own make sure the vehicle is safely secured on jack stands, the rear has to be up quite a bit to give you room to work under the car. The fuel lines can be very time consuming, but will save you time when you are putting the tank back in after replacing the pump, and heaches down the road.

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1 Answer

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I'm sorry I don't have a picture to send to you. I'm sure you know this already, but if you don't here goes. There should be a belt routing diagram on the front cowl on your truck. If all else fails just go to a parts store or a Ford dealer and they can show you a diagram quickly. I wish I had a diagram to send to you. God luck

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ok, if your a do it your selfer, her you go. http://www.stangerssite.com/Optimum/index.html

this link will take you to where you need to go. specificaly for you. You can send them your old parts and they will rebuild them for you at a modest price. The great thing about a company like this is they want your buisness, so advice and where is this and how do I get this off and put it back on is usualy free. You take the part off send it to them, they send it back to you. Everyone knows rebuilt parts are usualy better than bran new parts. Pluss we help out the American economy. Win win.

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1 Answer

Chinese scooter


Hey Mj, you seem to know your stuff--it sounds like the drive belt broke. You can get a repair manual on amazon for approx. $15 plus shipping. It would be a great help w/ pictures and how to maintain and fix the scooter. But if you're going to dump it, u probably shouldn't invest in it. I don't know the exact model you have, but belts seem to run $20 and up. Unfortunately I don't know how difficult it is to replace. I'm sure it"s a $100 fix @ the shop.
Good Luck! countrycurt0

Aug 04, 2008 | 2007 Suzuki XL-7

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