How do you get the stinkin' front brake rotors off of this thing? Do I have to take apart the entire wheel assembly? I also still need to know if the threads and the power steering control valve on the drivers side are standard or metric.
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brakes are brakes, push in , turn in, or two piece calipers. remove wheel , remove two bolts that hold caliper in place, remove replace pads if rotors look good if not remove caliper retainer and rotor replace or have resurfaced at local part store with service. if push in piston push in with c-clamp or piston tool, if turn in will be solid on top with slots for tool to turn in turn to right, tool can be gotten at parts store, if two piece take apart and put back then bleed brakes.
A front brake pulsing with no ABS light is a rotor that is no longer true i.e warped. Pull off the tire and rotate the rotor. Hold a straight edge (ruler) across the outside of the rotor as your rotating the rotor. You will note that it changes distance on the straight edge / ruler as it rotates. (in out wobble) A good way to test for an out of true rotor is to drive at about 45 miles and hour and really stand on the brakes (do not lock them up) If the steering wheel and or brake pedal pulsate... you most likely have a rotor problem. If your rotor has never been "turned" it is probably time to do so.
The ABS sensor is behind the rotor on the lower control arm pointed outward toward the rotor with a flat button face. You can not see the button face with the rotor installed. If the sensor is bad you will have an ABS light. I think your troubleshooting the wrong problem. i.e rotor vs your current focus of the ABS sensor.
I would like some feed back on the running dynamic on the road brake test.
Probably the splash shield hitting the rotor. First visually inspect the rotors for scratches and grooves front and back while the entire vehicle has been lifted off the ground and front tires removed. I fyou can't find any thing put vehicle in gear with parking brakes applied(remember your noise if comming from front of car)and listed for the grinding. Seperate the splash shield from rotor with a dull flat screw driver.
Remove 2/3of the brake fluid from the master cylinder.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Remove the front wheel hub extension (dual wheel vehicles only).
Insert a drift or large screwdriver through the brake caliper into one of the brake rotor vanes in order to prevent the rotor from turning.
Mark the relationship of the front wheel hub extension to the hub
Remove the front wheel hub extension bolts
Remove the front wheel hub extension from the vehicle. It may be necessary to tap around the perimeter of the hub extension with a rubber mallet to loosen it from the hub
Mark the relationship of the rotor to the hub.
Remove the caliper and mounting bracket as an assembly.
Hang the caliper and the mounting bracket assembly from the suspension using mechanics wire.
Remove the rotor.
If the rotor is difficult to remove due to corrosion in the hub area use the following procedure to remove the rotor (25 series only).
Clean all the surface areas and the threaded holes of contamination
Generously apply penetrating oil or the equivalent to the hub/rotor area
Insert (2) M10 x 1.5 bolts (jack screws) into the threaded holes of the rotor
Tighten both bolts evenly to force the rotor from the hub.
Clean all rust and contaminants from the both side of the rotor and the hub flange.
If the rotor was removed using the jack screw method you must ensure that the hub flange is free of nicks or marks caused by this procedure. Remove all raised nicks or marks before installing the rotor.
Install the rotor.
Install the caliper and the mounting bracket as an assembly.
Suspect that a shim or spring/spacer on the brake pad is loose and scraping the rotor. Some shops do not check for proper pad installation...
Test to confirm that it is NOT a bearing, wet with a water hose - the entire rotor and brake assemble and drive for a minute or so. If sound is not present, it is NOT a bearing... but is a piece of the brake pad assemble rubbing inside or on the rotor.
Section 06-03: Brakes, Front Disc
1999 Taurus/Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Procedure revision date:
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Be careful to avoid damage or interference
with caliper bleeder screw fitting and front disc brake rotor shield (2K004).
front disc brake rotor (1125) and disc brake caliper (2B120) assembly in such a
way as to prevent deformation of front disc brake rotor , and nicking,
scratching or contamination of brake linings/rotor surfaces. NOTE: To prevent damage, do not allow disc brake caliper to hang by the
front brake hose (2078) .
Remove caliper anchor plate bolts and discard. Position disc brake caliper
out of the way. Prevent separation of caliper housing from anchor bracket
because contamination of guide pin journals can occur.
NOTE: If excessive force must be used during front disc brake rotor
removal, the front disc brake rotor should be checked for runout prior to
If additional force is required to remove front disc brake rotor , apply Rust
Penetrant and Inhibitor F2AZ-19A501-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification
ESR-M99C56-A on front and rear rotor/hub mating surfaces. First, strike front
disc brake rotor between lug bolts (1107) with a plastic hammer. If this does
not work, attach 2-3 Jaw Puller 205-D027 (D80L-1013-A) or equivalent and remove
front disc brake rotor . Remove front disc brake rotor from wheel hub (1104)
assembly by pulling it off the lug bolts.
If original front disc brake rotor is being installed, make sure rotor
braking and mounting surfaces are clean.
to clean rust and foreign material from rotor and hub mounting faces when
installing new or old front disc brake rotors will result in high rotor runout,
which will speed up the development of brake roughness shudder
Apply a small amount of Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound
D7AZ-19A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M1C171-A to pilot
diameter of front disc brake rotor.
Install front disc brake rotor on wheel hub assembly.
Install disc brake caliper and new caliper anchor bracket bolts on front disc
brake rotor . Tighten caliper anchor bracket bolts to 88-118 Nm (65-87 lb-ft).
to tighten lug nuts (1012) in a star pattern may result in high rotor runout,
which will speed up the development of brake roughness, shudder and
Install wheel and tire assembly on vehicle. Tighten lug nuts to 115-142 Nm
(85-104 lb-ft) using Rotunda Accutorq® Lug Nut Socket 164-R0303 or equivalent on
a 1/2 inch air impact wrench, or use a torque wrench.
Pump brake pedal prior to moving vehicle to position brake linings.
First I feel compelled to get on the soapbox and say ALWAYS replace brake components as sets (Driver AND Passenger Side) to avoid some nasty side affects from disproportional application of the huge forces used in the braking system (like having the wheel ripped out of your hand as the truck dives off in one direction or the other or having one wheel lock up while the other spins freely).
I've changed the rotors on my 1/2 manual hub and 3/4 ton automatic hub 1988 models, so I can tell you from personal experience that if you're reasonably competant with a tool box, doing the job on a half ton is a piece of cake and the Haynes manual and a special socket you can buy at any auto parts store should be all you need. The 3/4 is an entirely different beast though, using a rotor that is wedgemated to the hub and ground true after the fact, so considering that I wouldn't touch that job myself with 30 years experience as an automotive and aircraft mechanic because of the tooling involved, it's pretty safe to say you probably shouldn't either.
One word of warning on the hubs. Unless you're an expert on the specific hub you've got, make certain that you can re-assemble the unit exactly as it came apart. I take advantage of the camera on my cell phone these days on just about every job 'just in case', but that's only one of many options.