Question about 1990 Nissan Minivan

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When vehicle is stationary and idling and brake pedal is pumped several times the brake alarm comes on

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Your car may need to be topped up with break fluid.

Posted on Mar 28, 2011

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2.7 s type brakes not working as they should they are ok when you start breaking but when you are down to about 10mph the pedal becomes very hard to push and the car trys to roll on ?


It is possible the problem is ABS related but could equally be a problem with the vacuum servo or brake booster or the "supply" of vacuum.

Certainly best practice would be to begin by ensuring the brakes at each wheel are in good order.

Test the brake servo by pressing the brake pedal vigorously several times while stationary with the engine off. The pedal should then feel higher than usual and rock-hard.
Apply the footbrake with a moderate force and start the engine without using the accelerator pedal, if possible. The brake pedal should be felt to pull itself down under your foot immediately the engine starts and stop pulling down in just two or three seconds, maybe just a second or two more if it is a diesel model.

Release the brake, allow the engine to idle for a few seconds longer and switch off. Listen carefully in the resulting silence for the sound of air leaking. This might have to be repeated several times in order to listen under the dash and in the engine compartment around the brake booster and vacuum lines. A short piece of garden hose used as a listening tube can be useful.

Once a servo has been charged with vacuum, in the absence of leaks, it should remain charged for a long time if the brake is not used - certainly hours but often months or even years is not unusual. Aplly a moderate pressure to the brake pedal and a shhhhh... sound should be heard that lasts about a second and then stops. Increase the pedal pressure and another shhhh sound and stop.

If all tests ok you can be reasonably confident the brake booster and vacuum lines are in order though it is still possible the vacuum supply is insufficient for sustained braking. A road test on a clear and safe downhill route will determine if this is so. Make a rapid series of brief brake applications at a constant speed of around 30mph and the braking effort and the feel of the pedal should remain consistent and if it does not it indicates restricted supply pipes or hoses, poor engine tune, incorrect idle speed (petrol models) or a worn or inefficient vacuum pump if it is a diesel.

Jul 23, 2016 | 2006 Jaguar S-Type 2.7

1 Answer

Ford transit van has spongy brake pedal


FORD Technical Service Bulletin PERCEIVED EXCESSIVE PEDAL TRAVEL MAY BE FELT WHILST VEHICLE IS STATIONARY AND ENGINE IS AT IDLE. IF A CONSTANT FORCE IS APPLIED TO THE BRAKE PEDAL IN THE CONDITIONS ABOVE, THE BRAKE PEDAL MOVES SLOWLY TOWARDS THE FLOOR. THIS IS NOT A FAULT BUT IS A CHARACTERISTIC OF A TANDEM BOOSTER. NO PARTS REQUIRE CHANGING DUE TO THIS BEHAVIOR

Aug 09, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How do you know that a brake booster is bad?


Booster problems are rare but they do go bad sometimes.
A bad booster generally causes the brake pedal to feel hard to push down, and a lot of pressure on the brake pedal is required to make the car stop.
Rarely, a vacuum brake booster will develop a vacuum leak, which can cause engine performance problems, hissing or whistling noise, as well as requiring increased pressure on the brake pedal to stop.

The first test:
With the vehicle parked, turned OFF, and the parking brake set, pump the brake pedal 5 to 6 times. If the pedal gets harder to push after several times, your booster is probably good.

The second test (To make sure):
After the test above, without making any changes, press and hold the brake pedal with light to moderate pressure.
Now with your foot still on the brake pedal, start the vehicle.
If the booster is good, you will feel the pedal go down when the engine starts.

Hope this helps!

Jun 21, 2014 | 1993 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

F350 brake pedal goes to floor, whinning sound


they use the power steering pump to power the brake booster so check the level of the power steering

Oct 14, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Looking for the final tourque value on the front wheel nut Mazda B3000 year 2004?


Warning:

  • Retighten lug nuts to specification at 500 miles (800 km). Failure to retighten lug nuts at milages specified could allow the wheel to come off while the vehicle is in motion, possibly causing loss of vehicle control or collision.
  1. Lower vehicle and tighten lug nuts to 135 Nm (13.8 kgf-cm, 100 ft. lbs.) .
  2. Install the wheel cover, if equipped.
  3. Before driving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to restore normal brake pedal travel.


100 ft. lbs

 

have a nice day

 

Jay

Jun 07, 2011 | Mazda B3000 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

How to bleed brakes on a 99 jeep wrangler?


Hi, there are bleed screws on the cylinders located on the top and back of the brake plate right where the brake line is attached. Have an assistant pump up and hold the brake pedal, open the bleed screw on one side and the pedal should go to the floor, have the assistant continue to hold it down until you have tightened the bleeder, now repeat until no more air comes out. Repeat for the other side.

Aug 31, 2010 | 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

How do I bleed the front brakes on a 2004 audi a4 quattro?


For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

Oct 01, 2009 | 2004 Audi A4

3 Answers

Brakes sometimes has a hard pedal


sounds like the actual booster...can you pump the pedal several times while it is off and then start it with foot on pedal and feel any difference?

Aug 28, 2009 | 1997 GMC Safari

1 Answer

99 ford expedition, abs light stays on, front brakes seem to be dragging


When was the last time you changed the front brake pads?
Try this:
Keep the brake pedal pressed down and start the car, after it idles for about 10 second let go of the pedal. If the light comes on just as you leave the pedal - try pumping it a few times, turn the car off and pump the pedal some more until it becomes real hard.
Then, keeping your foot to the pedal, start the car.
Idle for about 10 seconds, let go of the pedal and press it again rel fast.
If the light doesnt come on again - it means you have a leak of some sort or that the main brake pump should be replaced.

Good luck.

Jul 11, 2009 | 1999 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Have to press hard on breaks to break on 528i bmw 2000


sounds like brake booster not working
check vacuum hose that goes to booster is ok and not leaking
engine off
pump up brake pedal several times
hold brake pedal down
start engine
pedal should sink down approx half to 3/4 way down indicating booster is working
if pedal doesnt go down when engine is running booster has leak or no vacuum supply from engine which requires great pedal effort to try and get vehicle to stop.

Jun 26, 2009 | 2000 BMW 5 Series

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