Question about 2005 Ford Escape
Posted by Anonymous on
I wasn't sure if you were asking about the front, rear wheel or other assembly.
The most common problem is the front wheel bearing:
I have a 2002 Escape and have changed my bearings. All the Ford Escapes are the same thru 2010. The front wheel bearings on the Escape are simple cartridge bearings, or Gen1 bearings, that are pressed onto the hub and knuckle. They are not so simple to replace. Unless you have the experience and tools, you'll need to take it to the dealer or a shop.
You will need a press and the correct press tools.
The knuckle/hub assembly needs to be removed from the vehicle.
Here's the short version:
Remove the tire/wheel.
Remove the brake caliper w/ bracket.
Remove the ABS sensor.
Remove axle nut and press the axle inwards, until loose. (sometimes easy, usual needs special tool).
Remove the strut bolts, tie rod, and the lower ball joint from the knuckle/hub assembly. Each of these connections can have it's issues.
Press the hub out of the assembly. One half of the inner race will be stuck on the hub. Use a bearing splitter to remove that half.
Remove the snap ring from the knuckle.
Press the rest of the bearing from the knuckle.
Press the new bearing into the knuckle. Press on the outer race only!
Make sure the dust sheild is still in place.
Press the hub into the bearing. The bearing must be supported on the inner race only!
The point is that you must not press thru the balls in the bearing. That can cause the bearing to get brinnelled.... not good.
Reassemble the knuckle on the vehicle in reverse order. I like to put a little grease on the axle spline. The axle spline has a little helix on it... about half a degree. It's supposed to be a tight fit. The torque on the axle nut is 300Nm (about 220ft-lbs?). This torque is very, very important. It is needed to keep the bearing together and at the correct preload, so use a big torque wrench.
...or you can take it to the dealer.
Good luck. Here are some pictures that may help illustrate the difficulty:
Knuckle assy with lower control arm.
Posted on Mar 27, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is a tight fit, a few wacks with a hammer should loosen it. Hit on the back side of the flange where the wheel mounts, try to drive it away from the car, after making sure you have removed all the bolts.
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
Easy job ! just rem to get a gear puller for the antilock gear and install same as came off old one Parts around 100$ each apx 1/2 hr each side
Posted on Oct 15, 2008
It is pretty easy, there is not much labor involved if it has anti-lock brakes in the rear you will also have to un-plug the wire harness attached to hubs.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
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