Question about 1995 Mitsubishi Montero

2 Answers

95 mitsubishi montero has spark on first coil but not the other two, need a pin out of the ignition system back to the ecu. with what voltage and what grounds are what pins if possible.

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  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    95 mitsubishi montero has supply voltage to ignition module. fires on first coil. have changed the other coils out. so thats not the issue checked grounds need pin out of ignition system. i have already checked the basic stuff really just need a pin out of the ecu and ignition

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    im not getting voltage to the other two coils. would like to know what pins at the ecu control the coils cause i can't see that diagram at all. which pin to what coil cause i think this is the problem

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    and i just paid for a solution that i already have done so that kinda pisses me off

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    but thank you guys for your help i've just been working on this vehicle for way to long.

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    thank you this is the information i've been looking for

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    so back probed all the wires from the coils to the ignition module and from module to ecu they all have continuity. Is the ecu bad and not sending the signal to the coils? or is there anything else i can check. I really appreciate the help.

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    the ignition module is brand new. there is two black ground wires coming out of the ignition module. so the other three that where the colored wires are the signal voltages to coils then. ok well i'l check the voltage and get back to you again, thank you. also is there a special code reader for this vehicle since its in between the 0bd2 years and I can't link up to it.

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    also do you mean take meter leads one on the wire for signal and one lead on positive battery terminal while cranking?

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    so I have to take one lead of the meter on ac and put to wires coming out of ecm for signal and the other going to positive of battery? also i can't link up with ecm w a code reader is this cause of the year or the obd2 port on early model. do i need special code reader?

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    thank you

  • chris michaud Mar 27, 2011

    well checked the voltage, during starting and had two of pins going to coils off of the ignition module change from 0 to right around .8v and the other one is at .6v, the coil that is firing is getting .8v. there is also one extra wire going to the ignition module that isn't in the diagram. there is a black wire with 12v and a white wire with 9v and another black wire with 5mv. the rest are the signal wires. just wondering if that makes any difference.

  • chris michaud Mar 28, 2011

    yeah feel pretty comfortable with taking it appart. yeah the 12v wire is black and white.there is 9 blades, and yes the white wire goes back to the ecm. tested all six wires from module to ecm. all had continuity.the AC voltage of the signal wires would zero out when i turned key on and then when i started it would get like .6v on one .8v on the other two on the module going out to coils. do i need to check before the module from the ecm for AC voltage. am i checking it in AC voltage to try and see the signal change, since i don't have ocsilloscope? i'l go pull ecm now

  • chris michaud Mar 28, 2011

    no burnt up capacitors or components, trying to trace out couple of these, but found a capacitor tha is labeled 222 tdk and there is a couple of others that are the same and they have 200nf and this one is 65uf and its on pin 31 of one of the ignition module. not sure if thats anything.

  • chris michaud Mar 28, 2011

    no burnt caps, everything LOOKS in good working order. checked all the connectors, all look in great shape. I do have an anti-theft system with key code. does the dealership flash the vins or is there some other place i can go to. Thank you for all your help. this thing has been kickin my ****. really thank you.

  • chris michaud Mar 30, 2011

    so does the dealership do the flashing or is there some other place i can go to. i'm having a problem finding the ecm. all the ones i find have the number MD306933 and the one i have is MD306932. I believe this is a california car is this going to make a difference? agian thank you for the help.

  • chris michaud Mar 30, 2011

    i dont have one of those tools for check engine light. do you believe that the ecm is def. the problem or do i need to get one of these to check before i spend the money on ecm. what would do you think?

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2 Answers

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  • Mitsubishi Master
  • 8,142 Answers

Hi, all 3 coils are powered by the black wire from the ignition switch (12 volts). The ECU pins providing the timing signals are shown in the diagram below. Check to make sure all 3 coils are getting power, then check continuity of the wires from the power transistor and on to the ECU. Please let me know if you have more questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

95 mitsubishi montero has spark on first coil but - jturcotte_1334.gif jturcotte_1335.gif

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

  • 13 more comments 
  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    Hi, you need to check all of the wires from the ECU to the ignition module and from the module to the coils. The ECU pins are 10, 11, 23, and 31. The wire colors are white, red/blue stripe, black/green stripe and white, respectively. Check these wires for continuity by back-probing the ECU connector and removing the connector from the module to probe the other end.

    Then, with the connector still off check continuity on the wires from the module to the coils. Those are the blue, red, and yellow wires. These are the ground timing signal wires. The power wires are the black coil wires.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    Please let me know if you have any questions as you continue to troubleshoot.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    I doubt it's the ECM. More likely the ignition module. If you have an oscilloscope, you can check the signal from the ECM. Even a voltmeter set on AC can probably verify the ECM is good. Just compare the AC voltage from those pins to the battery positive (while cranking the engine), and you should get an AC voltage of several volts. 3 of the 4 wires are the coil signals, and they should all have the same AC voltage. Do the same thing on the wires going to the coils from the module--I bet 2 of those 3 wires are not putting out the same voltage as the other one.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    well, if the ignition module is new, then we have to suspect the ECM. Yes, measure the voltage from the battery positive to the module signal wires. I will check on the trouble code procedure, but the server has been down this afternoon. I will post that as soon as I can.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    there are 9 wires in the diagram--you say you have 10 wires? Are there 10 blades on the module too? I think the 9v white wire is a reference voltage from the ECM--does it lead in that direction? How many wires did you test to the ECM? Black wire with 12v--isn't that the black/white power wire in the diagram? The black with 5mV must be the ground. What is the AC voltage on the Red/blue, Black/green, and the other white wire?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    The module I see for your car has a 6-blade plus a 3-blade connector, no?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 27, 2011

    Your computer is expensive. Would you be comfortable opening it? May have some bad caps. They would pull down the signal.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 28, 2011

    yes, those signal wires from the ECM should have AC voltage on them, but I'm not sure how much. O-scope is really the way to check. If you open the ECM, trace condution path from those signal pins to see if there are any burned parts. Server is still down, so I don't have the code extraction procedure yet.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 28, 2011

    I wouldn't question the labels. We don't have a diagram for the computer--can't get one either.
    Are any of the caps oozing their innerds out the bottom? What did the connector look like inside when you took it off the computer? Pins that go to the ignition look good? A bad transistor may be hard to spot. It would just have a grey spot on the flat face.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 28, 2011

    After checking out the ECM, and assuming you don't find a problem, I would put it back and check the AC voltage coming out of those signal pins. If you have one that is lower than the other 2 like you did after the ignition module, that may be the clue we need. I checked for used ECMs, and you can get a used one on eBay for under $100. If it's an exact match, you wouldn't need to reflash. However, if you have an anti-theft system that stores key codes in the computer, that would have to be erased to relearn your keys. You might also check the local salvage yards. They can't tell you if theirs work, but they will usually give you another one if the first one doesn't work. You want an exact match though, or you would have to get the thing flashed to your VIN.



    I'm going to have to hit the hay soon, but I will check the server in the morning to see if I can get a procedure to extract trouble codes.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 28, 2011

    It may be possible to clear the key codes with a good scanner--not sure. I think the dealer has a special one. I would ask your dealer what they charge and go from there. I'll do a little research on your theft system. Morning now, but server is still down. :o(

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 28, 2011

    My research indicates Mitsubishi may use GM Passlock anti-theft designs. Do you have a resistor pellet on your key blade?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 28, 2011

    Server is finally up. Here is the extraction procedure:

    1994-95 Models
    SOHC ENGINES




    1. Use the special tool (diagnostic trouble code check harness) to connect an analog-type voltmeter to the diagnostic output terminal 25 and to the ground terminals 4 or 5 of the data link connector.

    2. Turn the ignition switch ON .

    3. Read the diagnostic trouble code pattern from the voltmeter and record it.

    4. Referring to the diagnostic chart, repair the faulty part.



    Fig. Fig. 3: Connect the data link terminal 4 or 5 with the self-diagnosis output terminal 25-SOHC 1994 and later models




    DOHC ENGINES

    This procedure uses the check engine/malfunction indicator lamp to read the trouble codes; a voltmeter is not needed.



    1. Use the special tool (diagnostic trouble code check harness) to connect the diagnostic test mode control terminal (terminal 1) of the data link connector to the ground.

    2. Turn the ignition switch ON .

    3. Read the diagnostic trouble code pattern from the flashing of the check engine/malfunction indicator lamp.

    4. Referring to the diagnostic chart, repair the faulty part.


  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Mar 30, 2011

    Hi, you don't need the tool. Just connect your voltmeter between pins 4 and 25 and turn the key on. Watch the meter and count the voltage blips.
    I am not sure the computer is bad. I go back to checking the AC voltage coming out of those signal pins while the engine is cranking. If it's the same on all 3 signal pins, the computer may be fine.
    Yes, california may make a difference. I would not want to try the federal computer in a CA car. You might have to modify the emission systems to get it to work right. That would just be a whole new problem to deal with.

  • crdoidge
    crdoidge Jul 18, 2012

    I have been having a similar problem but i can not find the self diagnostic output terminal. Could you explain in more detail its location?

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  • Master
  • 1,403 Answers

Usually,if a coil is bad,it's bad.your coil pack for the following cyliders may have blown. or simply went bad.it does happen,but not often,you may simply need to replace the other 2 coil packs to repair your issue. try interchanging the good coil with the bad coil to see if it fires,if it does,then you have bad coil packs.stranger things have happened. trust me.are you able to have it code read? if so,what codes do you see?if this is no assistance,please repost your question to fixya.com and thank you for choosing fixya.com

Posted on Mar 27, 2011

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How to wire up an ignition on a 1999 mitisubishi Montero sport


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Dec 08, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What powers the coil packs


In the early days of electronic ignition the single coil was powered by an amplifier module which also contained circuitry to switch off the ignition system if it was idle for more than a few seconds as well as varying the dwell angle depending on engine speed and this was triggered by a pulse from a hall effect transistor, an optical device or an inductor and reluctor in a distributor.

When electronic fuel injection came along it was found improvement to engine performance and economy could be made by allowing the fuel management to talk to the ignition management, which by that time was controlled by a programmed electronic control unit rather than the distributor and contained the all-important ignition amplifier.

When the distributor gave way to multiple coils and coil packs the amplifier and other circuitry, probably for reasons of cost saving, was integrated into the fuelling ECU to make a complete engine management package, so to answer your question, it is the ignition amplifier(s) that power the coil pack(s) but in practice they, in recent years, are an integral part of the main ECU.

I suggest you check the wiring and connections for continuity between the coils and the ECU before you start spending loads of cash. A wiring diagram showing ECU pin numbers will be needed.

Jun 26, 2015 | 2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

2 Answers

I have a 1991 honda accord I started it like I always do to let it warm up. It started right up like it always does. I went inside to let it warm up. I came outside and it wasn't runnung. I tried to start...


Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6223989-ignition_coil_doesn_t_spark . These are generic instructions--specific instructions are pasted below from Autozone.com. If you get stuck, please get back to me.

Use a test light to check for power to the coil on the black wire with a yellow stripe--see procedure below and other tests you can run. You will need a volt-ohm meter to run most of these tests.

The system used on 1990-95 Accords and 1989-95 fuel injected Preludes uses the distributor components to signal the engine computer. The ECU triggers the spark through the igniter unit and coil. This spark timing is controlled by the computer as an integrated function of the fuel management system. The distributor contains a crankshaft angle sensor and a No. 1 Cylinder Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor. Using these and other electrical inputs, the computer controls spark timing electrically.

1990-91 ACCORD
See Figure 6

  1. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and shield.
  2. Label and disconnect the 4 wires from the igniter unit.
  3. Switch the ignition ON . Use a voltmeter to check for voltage between the black/yellow wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If the voltage is not present, check the black/yellow wire between the igniter and the ignition switch.
  4. Check for voltage between the white/blue wire and ground. Battery voltage should be present with the ignition ON . If voltage is not present, check the white/blue wire from the igniter to the coil and test the ignition coil.
  5. Turn the ignition OFF . Check for continuity in the yellow/green wire between the igniter and the ECU.

jturcotte_639.gif


Fig. Fig. 6: Terminal identification on 1990-91 Accords

  1. Check the blue wire for continuity between the tachometer and the igniter.
  2. Check the resistance between the terminals which connect to the blue and white/yellow wires. It should be between 1,100-3,300 ohms. If not, the igniter must be replaced.
Coil test:
1990-91 ACCORD

See Figure 16
  1. The ignition coil is contained within the distributor. With the ignition OFF , remove the distributor cap.
  2. Remove the screws securing the black/yellow wire and white/blue wires from the terminals. The black/yellow wire is connected to the primary positive terminal and the white/blue wire is connected to the primary negative terminal.
  3. Measure resistance between the terminals. Resistance should be between 0.6-0.8 ohms.
  4. Measure the resistance between the primary positive terminal and the secondary terminal. Resistance should be 12,800-19,200 ohms.
jturcotte_640.gif

Fig. Fig. 16: Coil terminal designation on 1990-91 Accords

  1. All test conditions must be met. If any test condition is not satisfied, the coil must be replaced.

jturcotte_641.gif

Dec 27, 2010 | 1991 Honda Accord

2 Answers

Swapped a 1999 420A engine into a 1995 eclipse (also a 420A) and we have no spark. We started by checking the cam sensor and it is working properly it is upside down from the 95 but the ASD relay is...


first the cam sensor shouldn't be upside down from the 95. they both should be with the plug facing down. they 95 CAS has a different plug than the 99 CAS.
the 95 has round pins and the 99 has flat pins.

95-96
9f942a5.jpg
--------------------
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ad9a342.jpg
-----------------------------
also the 95-96 relays are opposite the 97-99

95-96
db7e0e0.jpg
------------------------
97-99
c98327d.jpg
---------------------
besides that it could be the ecu. i also have heard of the locating pin on the intake cam shearing off, allowing the gear to turn with the timing belt without the actual camshaft spinning.

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1 Answer

Coge reading P0300. 3 &6 Cylinder has no spark. Changed ignition coil. Stll 3 & 6 has no spark. What next>


Did you solve this problem? I am having a rough time figuring this one out on my 99 Montero! Maybe the ignition control module (power unit) or an ECU problem? Please let us know if you have solved it! Thanks

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3 Answers

95 Honda Accord Won't Start


well seems i would normaly says its the coil but i have my fellings after reading all your info that you may have a dead short leadings to your coil, a dead ecu or a bad coil... hear is why if you replaced the relay and found 2 clicks then the system arched voltage back through the wire untill it fried your relay so i feel that your problem is after the relay, not before you will need a wireing diagram to test your wires, this is where i would start simply because its the cheapest thing to start with. once you have checked the wires if that is not it I can get you a test procidure to eliminating the ecu as the fualt I will have to have a little more info than just the modle and year... Modle, year, engine size, sohc, dohc ????
good luck let me know if you need more help

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2 Answers

1995 montero 3.0 no spark on coil #3


check the jack pins condition, check for brakes, check the harnhes for broken wires, try an other ecm from a junked or salvage or borrowed and see if it makes any difference

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3 Answers

One coil won't fire


check the signal voltage going to afected coil harness, should be geting 12v. if its 0, the you may have a broken wire or pin on jack for that coil assembly

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