Question about 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class
Parts have been ordered and should arrive soon. I am searching the net for procedure, tools needed, what to expect, etc. Any help would be welcome.
There are several sites on the web, and I am particularly impressed with Diesel Giants site. They are in the business of selling parts AND they give back with sound, do-it-yourself-type of advice. Try this link or go to their web site at www.dieselgiant.com. www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm
Posted on Feb 21, 2010
I have done this job multiple times and the procedure is well laid out in the factory manual but the Haynes manual is excellent. I would not bother with the boot replacement technique unless the axle boots were freshly torn and if so I would definitely use the OEM axles.Put in new or reman axles from a reliable supplier. Some years ago I used CVJ out of Denver.
1. Pressure wash the underside and get it CLEAN.2
2. Drain the differential. This can be the worst part of the job if the plugs are seized. Make sure you do the fill plug first, then the drain plug. You don't want a situation where the oil is out and no way to fill it! Put a little antiseize on the plugs if you get them out. The size is 24mmX1.5 and may need to be tapped out to clean up the threads. No teflon tape on any plug with oil. The problem is thewy are steel plugs in an aluminum housing which is a sure recipe for dissimilar metal corrosion.
3. the inner attachment of the axle is a C ring if memory serves and will tend to fly into outerspace unless you try to contain it with a big rag. .
4. Replace the axle seals where the shafts enter the differential. Mandatory on old cars. They are cheap. I think I used PVC or abs pipe to put in the new seals, probably 2 or 3" diameter I think.
5. Pay attention to any spacers and washers at each end of the axles. I normally clean and reuse them.
6. Getting the axles free can be a bit tough to get the clearance on the wheel end. Seems LIke I jacked up the differential a bit to free them and of course you have to pull the brake calipers as far outboard as you can. If you do both techniques there is just enough room to R and R them.
7. Put in a good gear lubricant like Amsoil or the equivalent synthetic gear lube after carefully cleaning out the inside of the differential.
8. I think I used needle nose pliers to put in the differential C clip with a little tap tap to seat it tightly. It Must snap into place tightly to hold the axle in.
This is all from memory plus a few notes I had so I may have missed a few details but the first time I did it took at least 4 hours and the last time maybe 90 minutes. I did not have a lift which would have sped things up considerably. It is best to use high quality jack stands that go as high as possible. The higher the better but BE SAFE and put in extra protection if necessary.
Posted on Nov 03, 2014
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