Question about 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class

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Replacing CV Joints and bearings on rear axle, Mercedes 300D, 1983

Parts have been ordered and should arrive soon. I am searching the net for procedure, tools needed, what to expect, etc. Any help would be welcome.

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  • Anonymous May 04, 2009

    how do you change the rear wheel bearing on a mercedes 300d

  • Wally Wicker May 11, 2010

    Hello, What kind of parts did you order. Do you have the sealed type (can type) joints or do you have the newer type that are made so most people can replace the c/v joints. You mentioned bearings. Are you talking about wheel bearings.
    CYA, Gator241


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There are several sites on the web, and I am particularly impressed with Diesel Giants site. They are in the business of selling parts AND they give back with sound, do-it-yourself-type of advice. Try this link or go to their web site at www.dieselgiant.com. www.dieselgiant.com/mercedesaxleshaftbootreplace.htm

Posted on Feb 21, 2010

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I have done this job multiple times and the procedure is well laid out in the factory manual but the Haynes manual is excellent. I would not bother with the boot replacement technique unless the axle boots were freshly torn and if so I would definitely use the OEM axles.Put in new or reman axles from a reliable supplier. Some years ago I used CVJ out of Denver.
1. Pressure wash the underside and get it CLEAN.2
2. Drain the differential. This can be the worst part of the job if the plugs are seized. Make sure you do the fill plug first, then the drain plug. You don't want a situation where the oil is out and no way to fill it! Put a little antiseize on the plugs if you get them out. The size is 24mmX1.5 and may need to be tapped out to clean up the threads. No teflon tape on any plug with oil. The problem is thewy are steel plugs in an aluminum housing which is a sure recipe for dissimilar metal corrosion.
3. the inner attachment of the axle is a C ring if memory serves and will tend to fly into outerspace unless you try to contain it with a big rag. .
4. Replace the axle seals where the shafts enter the differential. Mandatory on old cars. They are cheap. I think I used PVC or abs pipe to put in the new seals, probably 2 or 3" diameter I think.

5. Pay attention to any spacers and washers at each end of the axles. I normally clean and reuse them.
6. Getting the axles free can be a bit tough to get the clearance on the wheel end. Seems LIke I jacked up the differential a bit to free them and of course you have to pull the brake calipers as far outboard as you can. If you do both techniques there is just enough room to R and R them.
7. Put in a good gear lubricant like Amsoil or the equivalent synthetic gear lube after carefully cleaning out the inside of the differential.
8. I think I used needle nose pliers to put in the differential C clip with a little tap tap to seat it tightly. It Must snap into place tightly to hold the axle in.
This is all from memory plus a few notes I had so I may have missed a few details but the first time I did it took at least 4 hours and the last time maybe 90 minutes. I did not have a lift which would have sped things up considerably. It is best to use high quality jack stands that go as high as possible. The higher the better but BE SAFE and put in extra protection if necessary.

Posted on Nov 03, 2014

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3 Answers

Ok i replaced the cv joints on my 98 geo prizm now when you put it in gear it just makes a screaming noise. What could this be. It will change gears but wont go.


Okay...

My source only goes up to 1997...

But I have every confidence a CV joint can only scream if the ball bearings are completely GONE.

Was this a NEW... or used application?

Go get the new CV box and look into the bottom...
Are there ball bearings rolling around...???

Did you pack grease into the new CV joints or put them on
as they came out of the box... wrapper...

AT this point... I'd suggest you get the old CV and roll it in your hands... push it back & forth... you can get the bearings in/out by rolling the center inside the ring and see how it works.

A slot for every bearing & a bearing for every slot...

Go up on-line.

You will see the axles (half shafts (?) are sold as complete units...

In my opinion VERY CHEAPLY... Do it again...check for grease & bearings.

Hope this helps.

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There is a clacking sound from the left tyre while moving on a rough surface and on low speeds


OK so it's your CV axle most likely during slow revolutions it clacks and makes noises so replace both sides to ensure transmission/engine performance stays optimal to power applied to the road. The other cause of noises in that area are due to the wheel bearings needing replaced usually and sometimes repacking the bearings instead. On your car if the axle passes through the wheel it has to ride on something to control balance and torque across the drive shaft. I would replace both front driver and passenger side wheel bearings and the CV axles on both sides please be smart people and replace parts like these in pairs/ together the reason being after you replace one side you drive a few months or less and the other side goes out almost always soon after the other I would say over 75% of the time let it be bearings/u-joints/CV axles or other crucial parts. Hope this helps please take my word and fix it right the first time and please buy the better parts not the cheapest parts out there if you want quality/ safety than buy the better or best parts never just the good or OK parts

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check rear wheel bearings for condition and adjustment. Check front axle "U" joints or cv joints for serviceability especially at the turning point for the axle stubs.

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1 . Raise and support the truck. Remove the rear wheels, the brake drum or brake caliper and rotor. If this is a disc brake, support caliper with wire. Remove seal retainer nuts from axle
housing.

2 . Pull out the axle shaft from housing. Remove the snap ring and bearing race from the axle shaft. Cut the bearing retainer. Break the bearing cage using a hammer and chisel and remove cage and rollers.

3 . Remove the oil seal, the seal retainer and the parking brake assembly (rear). Using a hydraulic press and bearing splitter, press the inner race from axle shaft. Inspect axle shaft for seal wear. Ensure that the shaft is not bent.

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I have to replace the rear right axle in my 280 zx i ordered the part from an auto part store and their the cv axles the bolt pattern isnt the same on the wheel hub side. is there somthing else i need


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Dodge Caravan, 2001, CV joints have 1/4" longitudinal play/noise


CV Joint Axle Replacement - How to Repair or Replace

Over time the rubber boots of the CV joints can become cracked, torn, or otherwise compromised. Once moisture and dirt get into a CV joint and grease makes its way out, the CV joints days are numbered. Signs of impending failures are a click-click-clicking or metallic crackling noise while turning and accelerating or a clunking upon deceleration. While one can repack, reboot, and rebuild CV axles, it makes more sense for the average do-it-yourselfer to procure replacement units and swap out the old axles. If a boot is torn or missing, it is possible to save the joint if caught early enough, but usually the damage has already been done. Replacing or servicing the entire CV joint axle assembly may be the smarter move since replacing a boot may involve removing an axle, which may also involve removing half or all of the vehicle's brakes and suspension.

Jan 19, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

2005 Toyota Corolla - steering column crunches


the reason why your hearing this noise is because your CV joints on your car is bad. CV joints go bad when the CV boots have a rip or a tear in them and little pebbles and debree from the road get into the bearings of your axle. Dont worry its not like this big expensive ordeal. What I do suggest is dont even ask about replacing the CV joints because it usually costs the same or even more than just replacing the axles. I know it sounds horrible expencive but its not. When you take your car in tell them you want to replace your front right and left CV axles, because there are two of them in the front. Most people think you only have 1 axle in the front but you technically have two. I find the cheapest way to do it is ordering the axles online. Then finding a job with the cheapest labor rate to put them on.

Go to www.autopartswarehouse.com. Select the year, make and model of the car. Then scroll down to the Driveshaft and Axle section and click on Axle Assembly and order the parts from there. I made it a little easier on you, I already looked it up for you and the price

right axle is $99.95
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Now you say you get the crunching when you turn left and right so you will need both the left and right axles. Remember that the longer you take to replace them, that crunching noise will continue to get louder and louder

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1 Answer

I need to replace both side and inner and outer CV joints (all joints) on the rear axle of my Mercedes 300D 1983. I am looking for advice and step-by step procedures. Parts have been ordered and will...


The best thing to do is call a "mechanic buddy" and have a case of beer on stanby. But if your determined to do it, than at least get a haynes or chiltons book to help with exploded view of the parts breakdown. I would start by jacking the rear end on stands and taking off the tires, the rear brakes and rear bearing assemblies. The cv shafts line up like a regular driveshaft on a rwd, so make sure you don't whack any of the splines up around the edges where they meet the transaxle. I will tell you if you're not comfortable with doing your own brakes, you will do yourself a galactic amount of good by finding someone who is to help you out.

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1 Answer

Repair


Hello, Replacing the c/v boots depends if they have been replaced before with new axles on not. The original c/v joints on earlier models is a sealed unit and you have to have a expensive tool to crush the new cans they are best done by someone in the business. The newer type you can replace the boots but you still have to remove the axle from the car. To do this, you need to elevate the car securely, remove the wheels, remove the long 13mm bolt from inside the hub then place jack under the differential and unbolt the mount from the frame, let the diff down remove cover, remove "C" clip from the end of the axle, jack the diff up as high as you can get it, take axle down from the wheel side, and then slide the axle out of the diff. Then you slide the boot down and at the end of the axle you will find a snap ring. remove snap ring and then tap the c/v joint out.
If you have the old style it's usually best to upgrade it with the new style so that in the future the boots won't be so hard to replace.
I hope this helped.
CYA, Gator241

Jul 18, 2008 | 1983 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class

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