Question about 1999 Oldsmobile Bravada

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I recently purchased a 1999 Bravda AWD w/ the smart trac system. It's been up until about a week ago. From 0-30 mph or so it hesitates while trying to accelerate. Mainly prominent when the engine is cold but gradually gets a tad better after engine seems to warm up. No matter if you slam on the gas and throw the pedal to the floor or a slow acceleration. The issue is rather annoying and from others i have talked with, i have 2 possibilities to diagnose...the fuel pump or the cat. converter. Please anyone thats either replaced these or had similar issues like this, please shed some light on this as i am not in the financial place to start replacing all the main vitals on this thing, thanks.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: bucking, slow acceleration, & shuts off

it can be couple of thing Try a fuel injector cleaner or new fuel injectors.it can be vacuum leak. Engines need a vacuum to run especially at idle which is when your car dies. It could be a stuck EGR.
If the check engine light comes on it will store a code so take it to a shop and pay them to read the codes. This may give you a starting point.

Posted on Jun 29, 2008

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bibleman01
  • 334 Answers

SOURCE: 95 Ciera Hesitates & stalls when warm

Change the IAC the idle air control. You may be able to clean it and put it back on.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

emissionwiz
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SOURCE: 91 oldsmobile cust cruisr, shuddering, engine loping

do u have a OBD 1 scan tool? try and find one on ebay for your car, I sold mine some time back, was $400 new got $50 for it, but I fixed allot of problems like yours because it allowed me to look at real time engine data going to and out of the engine control computer (ECM)

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

csmock132
  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: car forces me to slow down

I doubt it is a speed sensor. It is in the transmission near the passenger side cv axle. Have you scanned it for codes? You can do it with a paperclip.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: i have a cutlass with a chevy 350 , bogs out picking up speed ...

If I understand this right, you had this problem, changed the intake and carb, and still have the same problem, virtually unaffected by the new carb and intake.
My first suspect would be the fuel tank, especially if the car sat for a long time before you started driving it AND now you are using modern fuel which has a tendancy to start "cleaning" things. Being an 81 and that this is an intermitant problem and you are also complaining about the gas guage acting funny, I would drain and clean the tank. The sock on the end of the pickup tube could be falling apart or clogged up. If it is in fact breaking up or letting other junk through to the pump, clean and test if not replace the fuel pump. Personally, I would stick with an electric but it needs to be a decent one and not subject to junk coming from the tank, no pump can hold up to that. For a cheap temporary fix to help ID the problem, put another clear filter before the pump to see what's coming from the tank. If you don't want to put out the $$ for a Holley Red Label or equiv pump, make sure that the output is adaquate. Carbs like low pressure, high volume. Cheap pumps try to up the pressure in order to get the necessary volume and don't work well on a carb which relies on a mechanical float to regulate fuel. The regulator you installed will control pressure but do nothing for a lack of fuel volume at the carb which is the first thing I would suspect.

Other things to check out:
I would imagine you have HEI (elecronic ignition) which usually works or it don't so I wouldn't mess with that. I would check the plug wires though. If they are getting grungy, just change em. Otherwise, make sure nothing is loose. Check for a spot where heat or rubbing has worn through a wire, perhaps more than one.
Look around to see if the fuel is getting hot. Did you use a thick gasket under the carb? Is there anywhere around the engine that the fuel line, especially a metal one, could be too close to a major heat source.

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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Why can't my 2006 jeep go into 4 wheel drive?


are you on dirt? or pavement...????????????????????????
we cant answer until you answer what 4wd option you have.
if that makes no sense, then read the operators guide,
it tells you what's there and how to use it.
read that first, then ask questions,?
and if Part time 4wd?, it';s not to be used on dry pavement only ICE.

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4WD: Select-Trac (or older Select-Drive has a slip coupling too, NP129/229) is AWD in that, "the "4Hi" setting the drive shafts were coupled together using a viscous-type coupler " this anti wind up slipper"
Watch out for exception 1: Select-Trac NP228 based jeeps, it does not have a viscous-type limited-slip coupling. It was used briefly in 1986.
Quada-Trac is full time 4WD (not in lock mode) has a real center differential to shift torque between front and rear. This is the best system , not just a slip clutch as above. Then went BACK to the slipper in 1980. (odd huh?) Up to 1998.
Quadra-Trac-II "4-All Time", "N" or neutral, and "4-Lo". In "4-All Time", torque is applied to the rear wheels under normal driving conditions.
If the rear axle starts rotating at a significantly higher rate than the front axle, hydraulic pressure builds up in the gerotor oil pump and causes the clutch pack, to progressively transfer torque to the front axle, until both axles return to the same speed
Quadra-Trac I was introduced in 2004-10, same as above but is automatic with no driver controls ,like above.
The Quadra-Drive system was introduced in 1999 and is based on the Quadra-Trac II system but adds limited slip differentials (the best full time system ,with great traction to all wheels all the time) 1999 to 04.
Quadra-Drive-II has electronic limited slip differentials or ELSDs 2005 up.

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1 Answer

Why wont my jep go into 4 wheel drive when I pull th lever?


which system?
we cant guess what is In YOUR CAR, ever.
you must SAY. or RTM, in the glove box.
and why are you using 4wd on dry pavement, now>?


4WD: Select-Trac (or older Select-Drive has a slip coupling too, NP129/229) is AWD in that, "the "4Hi" setting the drive shafts were coupled together using a viscous-type coupler " this anti wind up slipper"
Watch out for exception 1: Select-Trac NP228 based jeeps, it does not have a viscous-type limited-slip coupling. It was used briefly in 1986.
Quada-Trac is full time 4WD (not in lock mode) has a real center differential to shift torque between front and rear. This is the best system , not just a slip clutch as above. Then went BACK to the slipper in 1980. (odd huh?) Up to 1998.
Quadra-Trac-II "4-All Time", "N" or neutral, and "4-Lo". In "4-All Time", torque is applied to the rear wheels under normal driving conditions.
If the rear axle starts rotating at a significantly higher rate than the front axle, hydraulic pressure builds up in the gerotor oil pump and causes the clutch pack, to progressively transfer torque to the front axle, until both axles return to the same speed
Quadra-Trac I was introduced in 2004-10, same as above but is automatic with no driver controls ,like above.
The Quadra-Drive system was introduced in 1999 and is based on the Quadra-Trac II system but adds limited slip differentials (the best full time system ,with great traction to all wheels all the time) 1999 to 04.
Quadra-Drive-II has electronic limited slip differentials or ELSDs 2005 up.

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1 Answer

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You should have checked fore codes immediately within a day
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1 Answer

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