The power trunk solenoid will not activate during normal use. It does not matter whether I use the button on the dash or the key fob, nothing works. I cannot find any information on the electrical circuit for this system. I have checked for power at the connector in the trunk lid. There are three wires in this connector. One of the wires is a ground wire, one of the wires has 12vdc on it and the other has 0vdc. With a meter across the two wires showing 12vdc and 0vdc I do not see any change when I activate the power trunk using the key fob. This would tell me that my problem is not with the power trunk solenoid directly. Please can you shed some light on this situation for me. Thanks Blake
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Could be relay contact's stuck closed allowing power to stay on . Or it could be a BCM - body control module problem .
Retained Accessory Power (RAP)
The retained accessory power (RAP) system allows certain vehicle functions to operate for a specific amount of time after the ignition switch is turned OFF. The body control module (BCM) monitors the ignition switch position, battery condition, and each door ajar switch status to determine whether RAP should be initiated or terminated. RAP is controlled with two different methods; serial data and relay control. Some modules receive a RAP message from the BCM over the serial data circuits. Serial data controlled RAP is deactivated as required by their modules RAP power mode operation. Other subsystems are activated directly by the BCM through a RAP relay. Components and systems that are active in RAP are also activated anytime the ignition is any position other than OFF regardless of the door switch signals.
Relay Controlled RAP
The BCM keeps the RAP relay energized during all power modes, except Off-Awake and Crank. The relay is also energized for approximately 10 minutes after shutting the ignition OFF and removing the key, providing no door is opened.
Relay controlled RAP will end when one of the following conditions is met:
• The BCM receives an input from any door ajar or open switch indicating the opening of any door after the ignition key is out of the ignition.
Important: If the BCM is receiving any door ajar or open signal from those switches when the ignition key is turned OFF, RAP will not initiate.
• The BCM internal timer for the RAP expires after approximately 10 minutes.
• The BCM detects a decrease in battery capacity below a prescribed limit.
Systems powered by the RAP relay during the RAP power mode are as follows:
• A/T shift lock control solenoid assembly (w/ floor shifter)
• Power window circuit breaker
• RAP fuse
• Inside rearview mirror (DD6)
• Sunroof (CF5)
Serial Data Controlled RAP
RAP systems controlled by serial data are as follows:
Radio RAP activation/termination is the same as relay operation with 1 exception; the only door switch that will turn off the radio during RAP is the driver door open switch.
Vehicle Communication Interface Module (VCIM) (Onstar®)
VCIM RAP activation/termination is the same as radio operation with 1 exception; if there is an active call when the ignition key is turned off the VCIM will remain in RAP mode, and keep the radio in RAP mode until the call is terminated.
Do you know what a DTC - diagnostic trouble code is ?
DTC B1475 00: Retained Accessory Power Circuit
Well, looking at the schematic, there is the IGN A (Fuse 6) in the under-hood fuse block feeding power to both the ignition switch and to the NO contact of the starter relay. Turning the ignition switch to the START position sends this voltage thru the CRANK (Fuse 8) in the instrument panel fuse block and thru the PARK/NEUTRAL position switch, thru the starter relay coil to ground. This should activate the Starter relay and pass voltage to the starter solenoid to ground, activating it. One the starter solenoid activates, batter power is sent to the starter motor, activating it. If, as you say, the fuses are good, the starter relay was replaced and is good, and the Park/Neutral position switch was replaced and is good, then then only items left are the ignition switch itself, the starter solenoid/motor, or the wiring of the circuit.
I have a 2003 Nissan Sentra and have had this problem myself. When you operate the slide switch that is left of the steering wheel on the dash or push the trunk button on your key fob, can you hear the solenoid click, but the truck doesn't open? If it does, open the truck with your key and raise the lid. I found that the lever assembly in the bottom lock was hanging up. I lubricated with WD-40 and using a small screw driver I moved the levers until they moved smoothly. Then activated the key fob switch and it started operating. If the solenoid doesn't work then there probably is an electrical problem. Let me know.
Disconnecting the leads from the solenoid,avtivating the switch, and reading 12V is normal because you are not reading anything but the signal applied to the solenoid.You need to attach the leads and THEN activate the switch and read the voltage across the terminals.12V would mean the solenoid is good because a voltage reading is a DIFFERENCE of electrical potential.If you have the leads attached and read 0V,there is no difference of electrical potential meaning there is actually 12V on both sides and the solenoid is not absorbing/using the power like it should be.If you simply read the 2 terminals on your battery it would read 12V,likely higher because a good battery will usually read close to 13V.A bad battery may read as high as 11.8V.As for the guages,it may also be that the battery is low if it has never been changed.The average life of an alkaline car battery is about 6 years.If yours was made and sold in 2000 like they like to do these days,the battery may have been changed once and is starting to be borderline.With the car off,no keys,nothing,read across your battery terminals and please let me know what you find. gmccarthy 86 hotmail
1) check trunk fuse
2) check if there is voltage at the trunk latch and that you can hear the solenoid at the latch activate.
3) if voltage present and solenoid does activate. Try lubing the latch. May be binding.
4) voltage present, solenoid activates, latch lubed. trunck still does'nt open. replace solenoid
hi there i have a mercury cougar 1987 and they are the same thing if your car at the door ajar is a keyboard search at ther trunk the code to open de car and then try to open the trunk check the open mechanism on the trunk sometimes is unplug or clean it a little bit if it donesnt work yo may buy the button at a yunk yard. the manual is only for sale at your local store like kragen, pepboys autozone etc. i bought at one of those places
There are only 4 ways to open a Fiero trunk. With the key, with the electric trunk release, with a locksmith, and with a big hammer and screwdriver.
Some year Fieros required the parking brake be applied to activate the electric release, some had to be in park, and some of the early models would work just by pushing the button. The ground is through the latch, itself. If anything has gotten on the body portion of the latch and the trunk was closed, like a towel or plastic bag, that prevents the trunk portion from making metal to metal contact with the body striker, the release won't activate. If you can put power to the car, insert a key into the trunk lock, clamp one end of a negative jumper cable to it, and the other end underneath to some part of the frame. Hit the release button. This trick completes the ground circuit directly into the latch mechanism and bypasses the body striker plate.
If this doesn't work, remove the release switch from the dash, unplug it, and apply power with a 9V flashlilght battery to the terminals. You may have to play with the emergency brake handle during these processes.
Are you hearing any noises from the pass door when you activate the lock switch? If not, the power door lock solenoid has failed, and prob needs to be replaced. Pull the door panel & check to see if it is getting power to the solenoid in lock & unlock. If it has power, the solenoid is def bad.