Question about 1996 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

We changed the tie-rod end on the front driver side. Now when we turn the headlights on the brake lights are stuck on. There is also a faint rubbing sound coming from that area. Also, when the headlights are on the cruise control doesn't work.

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Mercury Master
  • 4,369 Answers

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

ES Lancer - vibration, dull grinding noise when turning right, even at low speeds. Intensifies as I approach 30+mph. Replaced CV Axle, Tie Rod End, Bearing, and Hub. No dice.


Turning right and having a loader noise, means the left/drivers side is bad. Turn right, more pressure on the left side. and vice versa.

Aug 09, 2015 | 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer

1 Answer

Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

I have rubbing on the inside of my drivers side front tire, the passenger tire is fine. normally i would think this was an alignment issue but only the one tire i have a problem with. The ware is on the...


What you describe is most often caused by a bad tie-rod end, which is part of your steering. This causes the clunking that you feel when you turn, and the tire wear.
Jack up the front drivers side and when the wheel is off the ground, try to force it left and right. If you feel any play in it, a tie rod end is bad.
To find out if it is the inner or outer tie rod end, look underneath and locate the tie rod for that wheel- it will look like a pole about an inch thick. Get somebody to move the wheel left and right like you did, and look on either end of the tie rod for which end is moving. That will be your bad tie rod end. The "outer" is the one by the wheel- the other one is the "inner". Most often it is the outer tie rod end that goes bad.
It is important to get a bad tie rod end replaced as soon as possible because it can separate and cause you to lose control of your car when the wheel will suddenly turn either in or out, depending on which way you are steering when it fails. After a tie rod end is replaced, your car will need an alignment to set the adjustment correctly. If you are changing it yourself, mark how far the old one is threaded in so your alignment will be fairly close to where it was.
Good luck, and Thank You for using FixYa!

Jun 09, 2011 | 1998 Buick Park Avenue

1 Answer

We have a 2004 Ford Expedition when you turn right there is a noise coming from the wheel on the driver side. At first it was like a grinding noise so we changed the inner/outer tie rods. The noise...


There are several components that could cause noise from the front when turning. The components to be concerned about are, Wheel bearings, Ball Joints, Tie rod Ends, CV joints and brake rotors.

Wheel Barrings:

Jack the car up under the control arm until the wheel is off the ground about 3 inches. Slide a pry bar under the tire and place the other hand on the top of the tire. As you lift and lower the pry bar fell for loose movement in the tire. If there is such movement you have a bad wheel bearing.

On your vehicle this is a sealed Hub.

Ball Joint:

Repeat the test above and watch the upper and lower ball joints for movement. Is there is movement replace the bad ball joint.

Tie Rod ends:

You have changed the inner and outer tie rod ends so you are probably covered there.

CV joint:

The Joint is housed in a rubber boot. If you can feel the joint inside the boot you can turn the tire forward and back and feel for play in the joint. If you are not able to feel the play you can loosen the clamp on the boot and push the boot out of the way. Then repeat the test.

Brake Rotors.

You have already changed the rotors so this is not likely the issue.

Apr 06, 2011 | 2004 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Got vibration through the break peddle in my focus st when breaking at high speeds , had the discs skimmed and new pads all round also had new tyre's all round and its still vibrating, can't think of...


Hello, I have a few ideas about your problem. The tie rod ends keep the front wheels parallel to each other and they must be tight to maintain front-end alignment. If you previously had square rotors in the front, the tie rod ends had a work out and may have loosened up. If you decide to replace the ends and do not want to get an alignment, then try replacing each end like this:

If you can put the wheels on portable ramps or blocks of wood, keep the weight of the vehicle on the tires. Mark the rod with paint, scribe the rod with a hacksaw, or put a piece of wire on the thread side of the rod to mark the tie rod ends' position. Take one side of the tie-rod and drop the end out of the wheel fixture and then unscrew the end while counting turns. Replace with a new part and turn in the same amount of turns. The new end should be close to the mark for the old end where you previously marked the rod. The accuracy comes in when you go to attach the tie rod end into the wheel fixture. The tie rod end should line up exactly with the wheel fixture and then draw straight up into the housing when you tighten the tapered end of the new tie rod into place. By having the weight of the car on the tires, you should minimize the slack between the 2 wheels.

Just remember that you may have slack in both ends and there is a tendency to make all of the adjustment on the first side you do. This would throw the front-end alignment off.

The next step is to check drive-train vibration. If you have an Automatic this is a little easier. It will not hurt to put the trans in Neutral to see if the vibration goes away when performing high speed braking. If the brake action is smooth with the trans in Neutral, but not in Drive, you may need to have the PCM reprogrammed. The trans is suppose to release the overdrive and go into standby mode while the gears are downshifting. The delays and timing of this mode are programmed into the PCM. It can simply be a Solenoid is sticking or the software needs a tweak to release everything cleanly.

For a stick-shift, you may be starting to feel a throwout bearing vibrate or a clutch plate wobble from worn parts. Sometimes vibrations travel through different pedals if the tension is less on the Brake than the tension on the clutch. This is usually the case when down shifting.

I hope I have given you some ideas and you find my solution very helpful.

Mar 29, 2011 | 2007 Ford Focus (3 Door) Hatchback

2 Answers

I can't get the tie rod ends off of my 1990 Oldsmobile Regency.


grab the tie rod end very tite with vice grips. loosen clamp on tie rod near ball joint fit wrench or more vice grips on ball joint. try to turn the tie rod it would help to soak the threads awhile with w-d 40 or heat the tie rod where it screws in the bal joint with a propane or some type torch. before removing the tie rod count the number of turns it takes to get it out so when you put it back your front end will still be aligned. i believe it would be smart to knock the tie rod end loose before anything else. remove cottre pi and nut from bottom of tie rod end. you can use a tie rod separator that looks like afuning fork or just crawl under the ****** and beat the hell out of the tie rod bolt,not always easy,use heavy hammer.dont beat the bolt if you plan to reuse the tie rod end cause you'll never get a nut back on it. most rental shops have tie rod seperators auto zone loans them usually. good luck from sunny austin fx

Feb 24, 2011 | 1990 Oldsmobile Regency

1 Answer

How to replace tie rod ends


1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
2. Hold the tie rod end with vice grips or a pipe wrench and loosen the jamb nut (the nut at the inner end of the tie rod).
3. At the other end of the tie rod remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut.
4. The tie rod end will come out by turning counter clockwise. Before turning it grip the inner tie rod with pliers (the part on the other side of the jamb nut) so that it doesn't turn. Count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
5. Turn the new tie rod end in exactly the same number of turns that were required to remove the old one. Tighten the jamb nut up against the new part.
6. Re-install the castle nut and replace the cotter pin with a new one.
7. Re-install the wheel and lug nuts. Re-torqe them with the vehicle back on the ground.
8. It is a good idea to replace both tie rod ends at the same time and to get a front end alignment afterwards.
I hope this helps.

Mar 25, 2010 | 1998 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

TYROD


to change a tierod on 2001 malibu, jackup and remove front tire, next locate the nut holding tierod on tire side, remove cotter pin and loosen but do not remove the castle nut from the tie-rod end ball joint stud. then install a small puller and break loose the tie-rod end from the steering knuckle. remove nut and detach tie-rod end. (I forgot to mention before taking tie-rod end off of vehicle,loosen the tie-rod end jam nut and mark the position of the tie-rod end on the threaded portion of the tie-rod. you can also count the number of turns to take off so you can put it back on.) make sure the new tie-rod end is aligned with the mark you made on the threads of the tie-rod. have the alignment checked or adjusted after you have installed tie-rod end. if in doubt you can go to any auto parts store and buy a haynes manual for your vehicle, they are based on a complete vehicle teardown. the cost is only about 20.00.

Nov 23, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

3 Answers

2000 caravan drivers side rotor wears out told tie-rod true or no


Look behind front wheel for rod that attaches to spindle/knuckle, and moves your wheel back & forth from steering rack. The tie rod (outer) is the piece attached on the end, that is threaded on that rod, and attaches to the spindle/knuckle, behind the wheel. Grab your tire and try to wiggle it hard from side to side. (hands at 3 & 9 o'clock ) Push with one hand while pulling with the other. If there is slop, or play, you have probably got a bad tie rod end, which you can observe it move by looking at where it attaches, while someone else wiggles it. Maybe this picture will help you I.D. it.498e60a.jpg

Jul 29, 2009 | 1988 Dodge Grand Caravan

Not finding what you are looking for?
1996 Mercury Villager Logo

49 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Mercury Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75822 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5501 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22156 Answers

Are you a Mercury Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...