When you remove the wheel there is a bolt that is splined I guess? How can you remove that, is there an easy way? I am writing for my husband he is out trying to lower this Accord he finally got the one bolt but 3 others are yet to be removed, he tried for hours and hours to remove this bolt or whatever it is to try and lower this car, using anywhere from heat, to water, to air hammer, to regular hammer, and whatever else. Is there an easier way? thank you
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Depends on what you call easy and if you are mechanically inclined. First jack up the vehicle, remove the tire, remove the inner fender cover to accessthe balancer pulley. remove the drive belts, remove the crankshaft bolt and the remove the pulley. Then remove the bolts holding the lower timing cover in place. Install in reverse order. Average time to replace the cover is about 2 hours.
Remove wheel. Take off outer driveshaft nut. Remove lower ball joint
pinch bolt & separate ball joint from spindle. Pull rotor &
spindle out & away to pull driveshaft outer splined end out of rotor
center hub. Look on the back of the spindle for the 4 bolts that hold
in the wheel bearing. Use a 12 point socket to remove the 4 bolts and
remove wheel bearing from spindle (out towards the wheel stud side).
Probably will have to use a air chisel to get it out. Once it's out undo
the 4 bolts on the outer (wheel stud side) of the rotor and remove the
rotor from the hub. Clean & lube the hole where the bearing was in
the spindle & the inner face of the hub. MAKE SURE IT'S CLEAN
otherwise you may get a pulsation on braking if theres a piece of rust
or dirt between the rotor center & the hub face. Reverse procedure
If the rear bolts don't come out then you will have to use a
slide hammer to separate the bearing to replace the rotor and there is a
very good chance you will need to replace the wheel bearing after
you're done (noisy on road test).
Not the job to do at home,
usually an easy 2-3 hours per side if things go bad (book time is 2.2
hrs per side). Use good quality rotors as you don't want to have to do
it again because a cheap rotor gave you a pulsation.
try your power steering pump first if that aint it when you go to take that bolt out take the engine mount bolt off the side your working on so you can lower or raise the motor as you need to get the bolt out
There are 4 bolts on the back of the knuckel holding the wheel bearing in. The hub is pressed into the wheel bearing, so it must be removed. you will need a 10mm 12 point socket to remove the bolts. Once those bolts are out, it may still be rusted in there, if thats the case, you will need to beat it out with a hammer. BUT be careful because you dont want to ruin the bearing or the splines on the hub by mushrooming the end.
(NOT IN ORDER) Disconnect everything around the transmission, pull both axles out, drain gear oil from trans (3/8" ratchet fits in the drain plug). support engine with block of wood on a jack under oil pan. Remove all bolts and motor mounting around trans, unhook gear shift linkages, remove starter and everything in the way. Carefully split trans from block (MAKE SURE EVERY BOLT IS OUT). You can lower the trans through the bottom of the car if you remove some things (you'll see what's in the way). Let it land on a skateboard or a creeper with layers of cardboard to protect both. When the trans is out follow the instructions that come with your clutch, they all come with easy instructions and a spline alignment tool. Examine the flywheel to make sure it's not scuffed up to bad.
1. Jack up and support car with hydraulic floor jack and jack stands
2. Remove desired wheel(s)
3. Remove the two 17mm caliper botls
4. Remove the caliper and support with a coat hanger throught the bolt hole
5. Replace the brake pads (if needed) I recommend Honda
6. Remove the top off of the master brake cylinder that is attached to the brake booster under the hood.
7. Use an appropriate tool to reset the caliper cylinder to the recessed position. (C-clamp can work too)
8. Check to see that you have not spilled any brake fluid out of the top of the master cylinder (wipe any fluid up immediatley (especially if on paint)
9. Using a impact philips driver remove the two set screws for the rotor
10. Have rotor machined or replace with a new one (recommend Honda)
11. Clean new rotors with brakecleaner (whether new or machined)
12. Reinstall rotors and new set screws (be sure to use impact driver to set them)
13. Reinstall newly loaded calipers (with new pads)
14. Reinstall two bolts on the rear
15. Remove any supports from within the wheel-well (coat hangers/wires) that were used to support caliper
16. Reistall wheel and torque bolts to 80 ftlbs.
17. Lower the vehicle slowly after removing jack stands from the rocker panel.
18. Replace the cap on the master cylinder reservoir.
19. Test at slow speeds and take it easy for a while.
Remove the brake caliper and then remove the brake rotor, remove the large axle nut on the end, undo the lower bolt from the strut/spring assy and swing the assy out of the way as you pull the splined axle out of the the brake rotor hub, once the axle is free with a swift **** pull the axle from the transmission, it will most likely be a bitc.. to get out of the trans, but keep jerking until the internal snap-ring releases.
first you remove the center nut to the axle.... then remove the lower ball joint...... then remove the wishbone strut bolt on the bottom...... spray the axel splines with a wd40 or equivalent.... push the axle out of the hub........ use a pry bar to remove from the transmission reverse installation