Question about Ford F-100

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I have a 1982 Ford f100 300 straight six and my problem is that I think the choke is sticking on the carburator, the carbutor gets fuel, i've replaced the inline fuel filter but it constantly dies.

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1982 Ford F100 (straight 6 cyl) that is

inside the gas tank there is a little round screen on the senion unit which is also the pickup line and fuel guage. take it out and get a can of brake parts cleaner and flush out the screen and then the fuel should go through that is about the only thing i thnk would be left since you have changed the pump and filter.

Posted on Apr 18, 2009

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SOURCE: WHAT IS THE FEUL CONSUMPTION ON A 1975 FORD F100

Guessing in the range of 18 to 22 MPG. More--better. Less, look at the air cleaner.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

  • 834 Answers

SOURCE: 1966 ford f100 inline 6 cyl 300\r\engine turns

Make sure that the primary wire between the distributor ignition points and ignition coil is not damaged anywhere and grounding the circuit out. This is not a ground wire.

Replace the ignition points condenser, if this is shorted your points will never be able to work. With the condenser removed, use an ohm meter to check the resistance between the end of the condenser wire and the condenser caseing, there should be infinite resistance or an open loop, but it should not show any kind of a connection between the two, or it is grounded or "shorted to ground" and it will prevent the ignition system from working.

Are the ignition points adjusted properly? They have to open and close to send a dwell signal to the coil.

Connect a test light to ground and on the NEG. (-) side of the coil, have someone crank the engine and look for the test light to flash, the test light should flash indicating a dwell signal or coil pulse. (Do not use the POS. + side of the coil for this test, because you will not get a dwell signal).

If no dwell signal, then...

1. Turn off ignition and remove the distributor cap and turn the engine over until a high spot on the distributor cam lobe is on the rubbing block on the ignition points.

This is the fully open position for the ignition points and where they need to be to set them. and if you do not know the feeler gauge size, or the dwell angle to set your points at (according to manufacturers specifications), then tear off a piece of a match book and place it between the two point breakers.

2. Loosen the point hold down adjusting screw and move the base of the points with a screwdriver (look for adjusting nothches), until there is a light drag felt pulling on the match book. For the newer GM's up to 1974, just use a 1/8 allen wrench to obtain the same light drag on the match book.

3. Remove the matchbook and there should still be a small gap between the point breakers, rotate the engine and you should see the points open and fully close.

4. Pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground the end of the coil wire well or you might get shocked.

5. Have someone crank the engine and re-check for a dwell signal, you should also see a blue-white spark flashing between the point breakers as they open and close.

If you now have a dwell signal then replace the distributor cap back onto the distributor and the the coil wire back onto the distributor cap, the engine should now start.

If you did not grease the rubbing block of the ignition points with die-electric grease when you installed them, then the rubbing block on the points will wear down prematurely, the points will close down, and the engine will no longer start.

If you crank your engine over and the ignition rotor turns clockwise (looking down at the rotor) then you need to put the die-electric grease along the right side of the rubbing block edge (looking down at the points) so that the grease is trapped between the points and the distributor cam lobe, and the distributor cam lobe can pick up the grease. (Grease the left side of the rubbing block edge if the ignition rotor turns counter-clockwise). Only use die-electric grease.

Posted on Apr 19, 2010

citroenchris
  • 600 Answers

SOURCE: cleaned out carburator on a F100 straight 6. Now

I would suspect there is dirt in the idle system, did you blow the jets and passages out with compressed air.

Posted on Jun 04, 2010

  • 66 Answers

SOURCE: 1982 FORD F100 PICKUP

It is possible that you do have bad rings and is causing an excess amount of crankcase pressure. Since you just have a hose hooked up now. Try running it to the big port vacuum fitting on the base of the carb.

Posted on Sep 06, 2010

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