Question about 1996 Honda Accord

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'96 Honda Accord battery dies overnight. My full charging system is fine. ALternator has checked out, Battery has been replaced (3x). It isnt a starter problem bc it will start up if i jump the car. It only takes about 2 secs once i have connected it to another car and it will drive fine after. Usually the longer i drive it during the day the longer the charge will last. Then i park overnight and next day battery is totally drained. car won't even start over so i have to jump start it then its fine till the next time i leave it for more than 7-8hrs overnight. they have checked the system for draws and cant find any. did a charging system exam and my battery, starter and alternator are all good. they even disconnected 1 of the fuzes to my srs light bc it has been on for yrs and they thought that might have finally failed causing it to remain on and ransmit extra power. have gone throught 3 battery's (although we all know it isnt the battery) bc they said it could be a dead cell in the battery. so far im hitting a dead end with this one. havent installed anything different or new in my car. this started happening 2 weeks ago out of no where and have taken it to 3 or 4 different places and they have all agreed that i have a parastetic draw but they cant figure out where its coming from. no lights are on in the car. no plug ins... im desperate and any type of suggestions is DEEPLY appreciated. thanks in advance :/

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  • Mileidy Paula Mar 24, 2011

    according to pep boys and my mechanic they have tried everything. (im not doing any of this myself ) so it is even more frustrating to figure out since im not 2 familiar with any of this. in pep boys they told me that the voltage goes up when they take out the radio fuze. the thing is that i have had the same radio installed for the past 4 yrs. is it possible for it to be the radio?? and can all of this happen suddenly?? my mechanic checked it out and just swapped my battery out for a new 1 this morning hoping it might have been a dead cell in it. they have tried searching for the draw by pulling out fuzes and say that they cant figure anything out bc no light is on and nothing is pulling more current than it needs to.

  • Mileidy Paula Mar 24, 2011

    '96 Honda Accord battery dies overnight. My full charging system is fine. ALternator has checked out, Battery has been replaced (3x). It isnt a starter problem bc it will start up if i jump the car. It only takes about 2 secs once i have connected it to another car and it will drive fine after. Usually the longer i drive it during the day the longer the charge will last. Then i park overnight and next day battery is totally drained. car won't even start over so i have to jump start it then its fine till the next time i leave it for more than 7-8hrs overnight. they have checked the system for draws and cant find any. did a charging system exam and my battery, starter and alternator are all good. they even disconnected 1 of the fuzes to my srs light bc it has been on for yrs and they thought that might have finally failed causing it to remain on and ransmit extra power. have gone throught 3 battery's (although we all know it isnt the battery) bc they said it could be a dead cell in the battery. so far im hitting a dead end with this one. havent installed anything different or new in my car. this started happening 2 weeks ago out of no where and have taken it to 3 or 4 different places and they have all agreed that i have a parastetic draw but they cant figure out where its coming from. no lights are on in the car. no plug ins... im desperate and any type of suggestions is DEEPLY appreciated. thanks in advance :/ View Comments

    Comments and Clarifications: mapaula9 minutes agoaccording to pep boys and my mechanic they have tried everything. (im not doing any of this myself ) so it is even more frustrating to figure out since im not 2 familiar with any of this. in pep boys they told me that the voltage goes up when they take out the radio fuze. the thing is that i have had the same radio installed for the past 4 yrs. is it possible for it to be the radio?? and can all of this happen suddenly?? my mechanic checked it out and just swapped my battery out for a new 1 this morning hoping it might have been a dead cell in it. they have tried searching for the draw by pulling out fuzes and say that they cant figure anything out bc no light is on and nothing is pulling more current than it needs to. Hide Comments

  • Mike Hinzo
    Mike Hinzo Aug 20, 2015

    Try replacing the ignition switch and it will solve your problem.

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All is fine-until the next morning when it's d?j? vu. A quick boost from your battery charger gets your engine running, and a charging-system voltage test confirms that your alternator is charging. Further poking around doesn't uncover an obvious electrical issue. After charging the battery overnight, the car starts fine. But when left overnight without the charger, the car refuses to start. Conclusion: Something's draining the battery. You've got parasitic battery drain.

Most vehicles draw some battery current when the key is off, thanks to the clock and the internal memory of engine computers, body-control modules and radio presets. Altogether, they draw a very small amount of current. Fifty milliamps would be a safe upper limit for this, although many vehicles will draw less. If you're not sure, look up the correct rating in the service manual.

To measure the car-off current draw, you'll need a multimeter capable of reading current, preferably one with a 10- or 20-amp capacity, but a 200 milliamp lower scale. You can find these for as little as 20 bucks. Start with a fully charged battery. Either make sure the doors are closed or wedge the door switch shut. Turning off the dome light isn't good enough-on many cars, an open door will activate several circuits. (One example: Open the driver's door on some vehicles and the fuel-pump relay briefly activates, to prime the fuel injection for faster starting. After the initial surge, that circuit will continue to draw over 100 milliamps.) Unplug any power-draining cables from the lighter socket, such as a cellphone charger or GPS. Even if the device itself is unplugged from the charger, the plug may still consume a few milliamps of current. Got an ear-bleedin' stereo amp in the trunk? Pull the fuse, because it may be in standby mode rather than completely shut down.

One caution: If your radio or antitheft system requires you to input a code after the power is interrupted, better hunt it down now. It's likely that you'll need it. Don't let the dealer entice you to bring the car in and pay him to input it. The code should have been included with the owner's manual when you purchased the car.

Start hunting by putting your ammeter in series with the battery's ground circuit. (It's safer to meter the ground because if you use the positive side, it's easy to short the jumpers to ground, which makes sparks and burns up wires. Short the ground to ground and nothing happens.)

Disconnect the battery's ground cable and wire the ammeter in series between the battery terminal and the cable. Start with the meter on the highest range, probably 10 or 20 amps. Warning! Doing something silly, like trying to start the car or turn on the headlights-anything that draws more than the meter's rated capacity-can blow the meter's fuse. Once you have determined that the current drain you're reading is safe, gradually reduce the meter's scale to the appropriate low range, probably 2 amps or 200 mA. You are now reading the parasitic drain on the battery. Some vehicles will show as little as 10 mA residual drain. Others, probably high-end cars with lots of high-end gadgets, will draw more. An important note: Some devices, like alarms and automatic-dimming lights, will draw substantial amounts up to 20 minutes after they're deactivated. So if the reading is high, wait a few minutes to see if it changes.

You've determined you have excessive current draw from the battery. Now you have to figure out where. If it's not obvious, like the trunk light not going off, you have to get methodical. You can throw caution to the wind and start pulling fuses one at a time, until you see the excess drain drop off. Just be careful to get them back into the right socket.

Once you've determined the high-draw circuit, there still may be a half-dozen loads, each individually innocuous but collectively sucking the lifeblood out of your battery.

To zero in on that circuit or circuits, first reconnect the battery ground, taking care to maintain continuity through the jumpers until the clamp is making good contact. Then remove the offending fuse and use the leads of the multimeter to jumper the fuse terminals. I've got a set of dummy fuses-all three sizes of blade-style and the old-fashioned glass ones-with attached leads that make this part simple. Next, with the help of the schematic diagram, disconnect each device on the circuit-one at a time-and check the meter. When the milliamp reading drops precipitously, you've found the problem.

Check in THIS LINK and knowed about How to Find and Stop Car Battery Drains - DIY Car Battery Drain

Hope helps, keep us updated.

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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Definitely start unhooking you negative terminal at night, so you don't prematurely ruin the battery from all this discharging. If you don't have a clamp on current meter, which would be easiest to use to find the draw, you can place a multimeter on the terminals of the battery, and look at the voltage. Start unplugging fuses, and when you see the voltage rise, you will know what circuit the draw is coming from.

Posted on Mar 24, 2011

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