Question about 2003 Ford Explorer

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I am only getting cold air out of my vents, I changed the thermastat, coolant is good, and I blew air. Any other suggestions?

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It's possible that it could be a Blend Door Motor that has failed or the Blend Door itself is stuck or damaged.

Posted on Mar 25, 2011

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Engine overheated. Towed it home, removed thermostat and boiled it to see if it would open. It did not open. Reconnected radiator hose without thermostat and drove 5 miles. Temp guage held at normal for...


if you have cold air from your heater vents they you have air in your system. When your thermastat stuck you probably lost a lot of you coolant and if you didnt add any more i am sure thats your issue. just low on coolant now. When it goes to the heater core, there is nothing left to pump around the engine.

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No heat in car thermastat is good and no heater coil problem


check coolant level, you may have air trapped in the system.
Also, is car engine warming up to normal range on gauge? IF not, change thermostat.
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Im not getting any heat blows cold air. i changed the thermastat and nothing. it was blowing out hot air in the vent setting but nothing now.


need to check your blend air door located behind the dash on the passanger side, if that checks out good then you have a blockage either in your heater core or hoses to/from the heater core.

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I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2/ V8 4X4 and was told the Firestone service Rep that my water pump and thermastat were defective. I could smell coolant both outside and inside the truck. Also when the heater...


If the heater core isn't leaking it doesn't likely need changing. It sounds like you could have a problem with the heater control valve - a valve in one of the heater hoses that controls flow through the hose. If you smell coolant and see moisture on your windshield (inside) or have coolant leaking onto the floor - you might need the heater core replaced.

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The heater is blowing out cold air. I changed my thermastat but still have cold air.


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1999 ford expedition no heat


check the coolant level and make sure you have enough antifreeze and also the thermastat may need to be changed but check the coolant level first and also let the car run to temp while adding coolant to make sure you get all air bubbles out because the thermastat will not open if there is bubbles in the system

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1 Answer

2000 expedition heat problem


first of all I would make sure the car has proper amount of coolant and you are right it is very possible you have an air pocket in the system also ask your self did you change the thermastat after you did the heater core when the car is cold make sure there is coolant at the cold mark on the reservior bottle because you might not have enough coolant then start the car and get it up to temp and if the coolant goes not go up to the hot mark when the car gets to temp you do not have enought coolant just keep adding coolant and you will see the bubble after the thermastat opens

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I experienced the same head ache. First attempt was to replace the thrmostat and after taking it apart I realized that there was nothing wrong with it. I then removed the plastic cover/panel located under the dash board on the passenger's side. (only a few 4-5 smalls screws) Removal will enable you to see the on/off switch/gate moving/rotating as you turn the knob to hot or cold positions, on the control panel. If that switch/gate seems to work ok, then the trouble is within the heater core. Many mechanincs suggested that I replace the heater core. A very expensive proposition.
I checked the heater core supply/intake hose and found it hot to the touch, while the return hose was nearly cold. It was definitely a heater core blockage. I removed both ends (supply and return) hose connections/clamps. They are located near the fire wall in the engine compartment. A special tool is very helpful to remove those clamps easily and to replace them as well. It can be done the old fashion way but this tool was a life saver and reduced work time to just minutes. (Tool is $70.00 bucks at auto parts store,so I borrowed mine from a mechanic/friend)
I then hooked up a garden hose to the return end of the heater core and reversed the flow of coolant/water through the heater core. My truck is a Sierra 2000 and I refuse to see how a heater core could get clogged up with clear coolant alone. To my surprise a flat piece of rubber about the size of a quarter blew out of it and the flow of water became unobstructed. I reconected the ends of the hoses to the heater core, replaced the lost antifreeze & everything returned back to normal. No money spent for something most mechanics suggested I replace control valves/switches ($280.00) replace heater core ($500.00) etc etc. I am glad I was curageous enough to tackle this myself and save a few pennies. Good luck, and I hope this will work for you.

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