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AutoZoneShop for Ball Joint - Lower products with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are justpart of what we do. ... Duralast/Ball Joint - Lower, Part Number: FA1490 ...
1Disconnect the ground battery cable using a wrench.
Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.
Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
Finish removing the tire.
Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.
Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.
Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.
Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.
Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.
Install the New Upper Control Arm
Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.
11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.
Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.
Tighten the ball-joint castle nut to 45-foot lbs. (61 Nm) using the torque wrench, ratchet extension and deep socket.
Install a new cotter pin through the joint-ball stud hole using the nose pliers. If necessary, tighten the castle nut just a few degrees to clear the stud hole through one of the castle nut slots.
Mount the tire on the wheel assembly and install the wheel lugs using the lug wrench.
Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
you can either buy bottom suspension arms with the ball koint atached or just replace the ball joints.
If the suspension arms are shot, then you should be able to feel this when driving over cats eyes in the road. when the wheels contact the cats eyes they wonder, the steering wil feel like its going both ways, not tight, kinda lose?
Ball joints dont squeek they knock! most times its just as cheap to get ball joints and suspension arms/control arms as one. some things dont translate that good from UK to Us the parts have different names here, but thats the same part I mean. When you remove ball joints and in most cases you have to when replacing the arms, they get damaged and rarely last long after being put back in place, you may aswell pay now for one lot of labour than pay twice.
Jack and stand your car on side to replace the arm, remove wheel,it might be easier to remove the brake rotor and caliper out of the way, now there is a shock tower that the axle goes through, remove the lower bolt, next remove the ball jiont nut and cutter pin, hit the spindle area of ball jiont, carefull to not hit the threads, remove the nut that holds the sway bar link to arm, this one can be very stuburn, remove the bolt that holds the arm to kframe, and pry the arm out, reverse the procedure.highly recommend penatrating fluid to all nuts and bolts days prior to teardown to sink in the areas. GOD LUCK, RDJRP
very often when working with press in ball joints you have to heat them up with a torch get them to around 750 degrees or more and then beat the snap ring out literly with a small chisel (punch).
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