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How to change manual transmission oil on 2004 ford ranger

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

PyroPCMan
  • 405 Answers

SOURCE: 1991 Ford Ranger manual transmission remove

444a343.jpg

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the gearshift lever assembly from the control housing.
  3. Cover the opening in the control housing with a cloth to prevent dirt from falling into the unit.
  4. Raise the vehicle and support it safely.
  5. On 2WD vehicles, matchmark the driveshaft to the rear axle flange. Position a drain pan under the tailend of the transmission. Remove the driveshaft-to-rear axle flange fasteners and pull the driveshaft rearward to disconnect it from the transmission.
  6. Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line a the clutch housing. Plug the lines.
  7. Disconnect the speedometer from the transfer case/extension housing.
  8. Disconnect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch harness connector.
  9. Place a wood block on a service jack and position the jack under the engine oil pan.
  10. On 4WD vehicles, remove the transfer case from the vehicle.
  11. Remove the starter motor.
  12. Position a transmission jack, under the transmission.
  13. Remove the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers.
  14. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the transmission mount and damper to the crossmember.
  15. Remove the nuts and bolts attaching the crossmember to the frame side rails and remove the crossmember.
  16. Lower the engine jack slightly to angle the transmission assembly. Work the clutch housing off the locating dowels and slide the clutch housing and the transmission rearward until the input shaft clears the clutch disc.
  17. Lower the transmission jack and remove the transmission from the vehicle.
To install:
  1. Check that the mating surfaces of the clutch housing, engine rear and dowel holes are free of burrs, dirt and paint.
  2. Place the transmission on the transmission jack. Position the transmission under the vehicle, then raise it into position. Align the input shaft splines with the clutch disc splines and work the transmission forward into the locating dowels.
  3. Install the transmission-to-engine retaining bolts and washers. Tighten the retaining bolts to specifications. Remove the transmission jack.
  4. Install the starter motor. Tighten the attaching nuts.
  5. Raise the engine and install the rear crossmember, insulator and damper and attaching nuts and bolts. Tighten and torque the bolts to specification.
  6. On 4WD vehicles, install the transfer case.
  7. On 2WD vehicles, insert the driveshaft into the transmission extension housing and install the center bearing attaching nuts, washers and lockwashers. Connect the driveshaft to the rear axle drive flange.
  8. Connect the starter motor, back-up lamp and, if equipped, neutral sensing switch connectors.
  9. Connect the hydraulic clutch line and bleed the system.
  10. Install the speedometer cable.
  11. Check and adjust the fluid level.
  12. Lower the vehicle.
  13. Install the gearshift lever assembly. Install the boot cover and bolts.
  14. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
  15. Check for proper shifting and operation of the transmission.
The above was pulled frrom:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c152800391da

hope this helps

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

  • 321 Answers

SOURCE: Change Automatic Transmission oil

Honda's are drain and refill only.The filter is internal inside the transmission and can only be accessed during an overhaul.On the bottom of the transmission case is a drain plug that is gold in color.It is removed using a 3/8" ratchet,or extension with a ratchet atached.There is also an aluminum washer that must be kept track of and reinstalled with the drain plug or a leak will occur.After draining the trans,and reinstalling the drain plug,Honda genuine automatic transmission fluid,or an equivalent with a highly fricition modified additive must be used,or harsh shifting can occur.I would install about 3 quarts after draining,and start checking the level at this point.The fluid level is checked with the engine OFF,on level ground.

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 56 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 2004 dodge ram 2500 5.9L cummins diesel

There should be 2 plugs in the trans - one for drain and one to fill. Just make sure you use the correct fluid - chack with your dealer.

Posted on Jul 10, 2009

localwonder
  • 6784 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 ford ranger edge 3.0L spark plug wire diagram

The diagram you seek is below.


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Posted on Jul 26, 2009

joecoolvette
  • 5660 Answers

SOURCE: Ford ranger, getting harder to shift into gear

Suggest you check the fluid level of the transmission first. Remove the fill plug, and see if it is Below the proper level. Do Not fill at this time! There is a reason for this.

Then I would suggest draining the fluid. You are also looking for brass fragments in the fluid. Drain into a three quart metal, or plastic drain pan. (They are approximately 18 inches across, and 4 inches deep)

1.Manual transmissions use Synchronizer's made of a brass alloy. The synchronizers have tapered teeth, that the nose of the teeth can be worn down. Also a tapered surface on the synchronizer, that can be worn down. Brass fragments in the transmission fluid is a sign of this wear.

Some brass 'dust' will occur as normal wear. A large accumulation means you have problems. Transmission is hard to shift, is one of those symptoms due to this.

This link to an animated working of a five-speed manual transmission, may help to explain how the components interact with each other, and also help me to explain the Synchronizer/s.
(From Howstuffworks.com - Auto- Under the Hood - Transmissions and Drivetrain)

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/transmission3.htm

Looking at the animation, observe the 'gold' colored parts. In particular, observe the the pair of gold colored teeth at the rear. (The teeth are in a vertical row, going up and down)

Now also observe the blue colored teeth next to them, on either side. (On the spinning gears)
You are looking at a side view of the transmission, and also a side view of the Synchronizers.

The synchronizers are round just like the gears. They have a Female tapered surface where they meet the gear. The gear has a Male tapered surface on the outside of the gear, that matches.

When the female tapered surface of the synchronizer meets the male tapered surface of the gear, the friction contact makes the synchronizer start turning the same speed, as the gear.

Helps the gear being shifted into start turning also, and the - teeth of the synchronizer, - gear to be engaged, and - already turning components are synchronized to each other. They will be all turning the same speed, so shifting will be smooth.

This shows you Synchronizer rings for a 4-speed Muncie transmission,

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MUNCIE-4-SPEED-BRASS-SYNCHRONIZER-RINGS-1963-TO-1974_W0QQitemZ360137693405QQcmdZViewItem?rvr_id=&itemid=360137693405

Enlarge it for a better view.
See the teeth going around the synchronizer ring? Notice that they are pointed, or V shaped. When the nose, or tip of this V is worn down, a manual transmission is hard to shift.

Also observe the flat landing on top. (In this view it's on top) The flat landing has three rectangular cutouts in it. (There are used for Detents)

Come from that top landing, down the side to the teeth. This Side has a tapered surface. Tapered ever so slightly, that it is not readily visible in this photo.
When this tapered surface wears down, the transmission is hard to shift.

Summation?
1.Low fluid will cause hard shifting. It will also cause abnormally high wear of the synchronizer rings, (Synchronizer Rings are also referred to as 'Blocker Rings')

2.Worn Synchronizer Rings,
Broken or worn Detent 'buttons',
Broken Detent Springs,
and worn Synchronizer Hub's,
will cause hard shifting.

Should you not have an abnormal amount of brass shavings in your transmission fluid, and found the fluid to be low, you may want to just replace the fluid to the proper level, and see if this works first.

If so, I suggest contacting your Ford dealer, and see what the proper transmission fluid is for YOUR Ford Ranger. They will go by THE transmission is used in your truck, and will have any updates if better fluid has been developed since your truck was made.

I know dealers are expensive to buy from sometimes, but I implore you to use the transmission fluid they recommend.
It will have special additives.



Posted on Oct 31, 2009

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