Question about Ford Explorer
1 remove tire.2 remove brake system and rotor.3 remove axle 4 theres a big nut around shaft remove this with hammer and screw driver.5 bearing should come right out. Befor inserting new bearing make sure you pack it with white litho greese. then replace eash step.
Posted on Mar 24, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Remove the wheel, remove the hub nut, remove the brake caliper and rotor, put your socket and extension through the hub flange onto the bearing retainer bolts, undo them, release the abs sensor connector if it has it, remove the bearing and hub flange as an assembly, put the new one on and go backwards from here. Torque the hub nut to 180 ft/lbs, your done.
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.
Posted on May 04, 2009
Diagnosing the bearings can be tricky depending on severity of wear. Typically - drone noise at highway speeds, squeeling, clicking or grinding noises at low speeds that reduce during braking, or pull off the wheel and brake assembly and check the bearing for slack or smoothness of rotation by hand. While doing this, check the brake assembly thoroughly - generally a more likely culprit of wheel noise.
Wheel bearing replacement is not for the novice backyard mech. - you will need pullers, press, etc. If you can get a rebuilt assembly - much easier.
Posted on May 08, 2009
Tire and wheel assembly Caliper and rotor Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt from the steering knuckle Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor Front drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive models Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts Hub and bearing assembly O-ring seal from the steering knuckle bore (2500 series)
Hub and bearing assembly Hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 133 ft. lbs. (180 Nm). Front drive halfshaft assembly on four wheel drive models Electrical connection for the wheel speed sensor Wheel speed sensor and brake hose mounting bracket bolt to the steering knuckle. Tighten to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm). Rotor Tire and wheel assembly.
Posted on Jan 19, 2010
the car does not need to be aligned after a wheel bearing replacement. it is a good idea to get this done every 6 months depending on driving habits though. good maintenance.
Posted on Feb 18, 2010
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