Question about GMC Suburban

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Replaced both front calipers, rotors, and brakes. brakes, drums and cylinders on rear. we cant seem to be able to bleed all the air out of lines. we bled the mc with no improvments. how about the abs system? i read something about the brake preesure modulator valve? how would i do that? there are no leaks that we're aware of. UGH help please

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The best way to bleed the brakes is to start with the master cylinder and work your way back. after you are sure all the air is out of the master, got to the rear and open one bleed screw. do not touch the brake pedal ,but let the fluid drain, keeping the master cylinder full, untill the fluid comes out clear,like new. Close that side and go to the other rear wheel and repeat. After the rear is done close all beed screws and pump the brakes at least 10 times .Then bleed the front in a normal fashion. Try to close the bleed screw before the brake pedal hits the floor.If you still have air in brake system then there has to be a leak letting it in. Gravity brake bleeding is the easiest way to remove air in system

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

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You need to bleed them accordin to manufactures specs. When. Bleedin abs u need scan tool to open valve because air gets trapped in there. There will be a certain order weather u have diagnal split or front rear split

Posted on Mar 23, 2011

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You say you filled it with fluid after the repairs. You must also "bleed" the brake lines to purge any air that is trapped in them. Brake fluid provides the hydraulic compression that causes the brake pads to clamp to the brake rotor/drum. Air in the lines will prevent this as when the brake pedal is pressed, the fluid will simply pressurize the air in the lines and not activate the caliper/wheel cylinder. The reason you have front brakes is that modern vehicles have dual-reservoir master cylinders to prevent total brake loss in the event of a leak. This is why you still have front brakes as there is no air in those lines. You will need to bleed the rear brake lines at BOTH rear wheels to purge air rom the system. The procedure is fairly simple, though some cars with ABS have to have things done differently. I would recommend you check an online forum for you vehicle (simply Google "bleed rear brakes 20xx VW Golf) and see what comes up. It is easier to do with two people, but one can sometimes pull it off.

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Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech

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2 Answers

My brakes will not get hard. The pedal goes to the floor. I just changed rear caliper and rotor on the drivers side.


DId you bleed the system after you changed the caliper? If the Master cylinder lost it's fluid while you were changing the caliper, then there is air in the system and you need to bleed the entire system. start with the REAR RIGHT, then the REAR LEFT and then the FRONT RIGHT and last the FRONT LEFT. make sure the master cylinder NEVER runs low on fluid and DO NOT re-use any fluid that you get out of the calipers.

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1 Answer

Brake pedal goes down close to the floor and there is a serious delay in braking action. Does not pump up like when there is air in the line. It happened after we replaced front and rear brakes including...


It seems like there is still air in the lines, also I would check the Power Brake Booster and Master Cylinder to make sure they are working properly.

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After replacing drive side caliper, both front disk brakes, and rear drum brakes, bleed all three lines, both my front calipers lock grinding my front brakes. I am going to re-bleed my lines tomorrow but...


I assume you mean that you replaced the front pads and rear shoes. Or did you also replace the disks and drums?? Either way you should be ok unless you also replaced the slave cylinders on the rears.
The fluid flows back up to the Master Cylinder as you squeeze the calipers and the slaves to fit the new parts in. Some people pre-fill the caliper to reduce the amount of air and make bleeding easier.Now .....Grinding better be a wrong choice of words. Possibly you spilled fluid on the pads while bleeding the lines. This will cause a binding and shuddering when you apply brake pressure. This will also make you think the lines are not bled properly because of the increased pedal pressure you are putting on the wet/lubricated front pads. If so, replace the pads. Don't try washing them with aerosol cleaner cause it takes more time and money than simply changing them.

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I just replaced my front rotors, pads, and calipers on a 98 olds achieva. After doing this I bled the the front brakes but am now experiencing a very soft pedal. I am wondering if something else could be...


Because of the ABS system if you press the brake pedal with too much pressure then it will give you the illusion of a soft pedal. Does it feel like a soft pedal when the vehical is in motion and you then press on the brake pedal (normal)? The other thing is if your pads and/or caliper were frozen, when you changed them out. The brakes are not going to feel or brake exactly the same, after the repair. But you are there, if the pedal is real low or goes to the floor then there is still air in the system or for some reason, your master cylinder is defective.

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1 Answer

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2 Answers

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Did you bleed the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder? THen next furthest, to closest last. Did u make sure the master cylinder never got low enough to draw in air? To bleed, Pumo brakes 3x, holding pedal down 1/2 way, while bleeder is opened, let air/fluid flow, shut bleeder as flow diminishes so no air gets in the line. Is the car running when u bleed brakes? It should be. If u are doing all of this u should feel your pedal coming back (getting firm). Let me know how you make out. countrycurt0

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1 Answer

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