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So when you turn the key to on, no dash warning lights and gauges turn on? Did you check the fuses with a voltmeter or test light? With key off, some fuses would have power at all times-brake lights, headlights, horn- but with key on, all fuses should show power.
Just off the battery is the Battery Junction Block, where the power is distributed to various circuits through Fusible Links. These connect to battery power with eyelet connectors at the Junction Block-looks like 5 or 6 Links leading off the Block. Even the small wire from the battery to the Block is a Fusible Link, but if your headlights work, this main Link must be okay. One of the Links from the Junction Block would be to the ignition switch. If your ignition switch has power, you may have a bad switch, but you need to check if it has power first. If no power to switch, check the Fusible Links. The diagram I am looking at does not show which one it is, unfortunately.
Honestly, there simply not much difficulty to the way headlights are wired on any vehicle. Standard headlights receive positive 12v from the headlight switch directly (or through a relay, if you have automatic headlights), and the switch receives power through the fuse block from the battery. When you turn the headlight switch on, you should get 12v at the input connector to your headlights. If the headlight connector is not receiving +12v at the connector when you turn the headlight switch on, check the fuse, the switch, and the relay. If the headlight assembly is receiving +12v at the connector, check the bulb. If the bulb tests good with an ohmmeter, check for a broken ground wire. That is simply all there is.
see the diagram attached, and test loose wires+connector , corrosion, oxide, dirty, clean it with contacts cleaner. 2) test the switch for open or faulty 3) test the headlight for open or broker 4) test the fuse.
see the diagram attached.
God bless you
Turn on the low beams and check to see if you have battery voltage at the connectors, if not, check the fuse panels for a blown fuse, if all the fuses check out Ok, The next step is to check the high beam switch, called a multi-function switch on the column. It's not that common for the headlight switch itself to fail, however, the main connector to the headlight switch can and do fatigue, sometimes even melt due to a poor connection. I would check for that first as it is a common problem. Your wiring diagram will give you the wire color codes so you know which wire to test.
There isn't going to be additional power. How the system works is when you turn the headlights on you enguage the relay through a ground. You always have power at the relay but when you turn the headlights on, the switch supplies the ground to the relaywhich in turn "completes" the circuit so you will always have power at the red and black as you say (thought they were are dark green) below is a picture. I have marked the ground location for the low beam headlamps. That ground wire is white and black. When you switch on the high beam, the switch supplies a ground at the red and yellow wire. Not sure what your problem is as you didn't say. Are you not geting low or high beams ? Also below is a wiring diagram for the headlamp circuit. Hope this helps....
The DK BLU/ORG wire from fuse 12 connects to terminal 6. The RED/YEL wire from the multi-function switch connects to terminal 2. A second DK BLU/ORG wire from fuse 12 connects to the multi-function switch and has nothing to do with the headlight switch
The headlight gear seldom is bad. the problem is the arm on the motor and/or the connector rollers inside the motor. Replacement kits are on Ebay that fix both.
The lights not working sounds like a bad headlight switch. Riviera used the same switch so they are not to bad to find.
Tools recommended for this job: wire stripper, wire crimper, volt meter, 4x quick wire connectors, 4x male crimp connectors, 4x female crimp connectors
First, tape the halo and/or LED wires to the back of the headlights to keep them from tangling.
Keep the pairs in order by their color, e.g. black, black (ground) and Red, Red (positive). Note: positive and ground wires might not always be black and red.
Remove some of the plastic shielding at the end of the wires to expose enough copper wire, next twist the copper together to strengthen it.
Shove the twisted copper into a crimp connector; crimp the location where wire and the connector end overlaps, wrap with electrical tape to secure it.
Two extra wires in black and red will be helpful to make the halo/LED wire longer to easier installation. Remove shielding: show copper: use the connectors: connect the positive and ground from the headlights.
Next step, turn the headlights inside the car to the [on] position.
Take the volt meter and connect the negative to the negative on the battery (please use extreme precaution when doing so).
The headlight harness usually will have  wires, generally red, black, green (headlights, ground, turn signal). Use the volt meter to test which wire will have power running through it (since the headlight is in the [on] position) which will be the headlight wire.
Use the quick connector to connect the extra wires (red) to the power wire on the harness and black to the ground. This will split the current coming from the harness. Crimp the connectors and use electrical tape to secure it.
Now connect the projector headlight halo wires and the harness from the car.
should be three wires one ground one power for low beam one power for high beams
take a test light (if dont own one buy one there real cheap and useful) clamp test light to good ground turn on lights on low beam probe wires in connector until test light lights this will be low beam power
no switch to high beams should have power on other wire
Here's a link to a pdf file containing the headlight wiring diagram for your year model Dodge Ram 1500.. I can't help but notice that you say you've replaced the headlight relay? That's quite odd, because there is NO headlight relay on this vehicle- only a 40 amp fuse located in the power distribution box that sits behind the battery inside the engine bay. The switch is notorious for burning out because there is NO RELAY on this vehicle, and there is a recall (#819) but this only affects 3500 models even though the headlight wiring is the same for 1500,2500 and 3500 model Rams. Here are two more links that will help you troubleshoot your headlights problems. HereInformation on Putting a Relay in the Wiring System