Question about 2004 Subaru Forester

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Getting code POO11 and Code POO21 which has caused the subaru house to replace a cam and one Bnajo bolt. Now told I need another banjo bolt that is in the head near the timing belt.

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5 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Rebgagnon
  • 382 Answers

SOURCE: I have a 1995 subaru lagacy that needs cam seals,

Very simple job for you based on your described abilities. If you have the EJ-25 motor it is a little involved but not a hard job. Do your self a favor and when removing the Timing belt make sure you put it at TDC and line the marks correctly so assembly will go much smoother. Good luck and have a great day.

Posted on Mar 16, 2010

jgwhomeequip
  • 1902 Answers

SOURCE: I am getting a code

P0011 and P0021. Basically, this pertains to vehicles w/ AVCS. Yeah, there are bulletins on filters and other silly stuff that may apply to some peoples cars but there are other "underlying" issues at hand. Oiling problems to name one. Let me show you some examples that have passed through my shop within the last month (at least 4 different cars).


First off we have a view of the camshaft mains that are wiped out and no longer provide a good seal to feed enough oil pressure to the AVCS cam gears.

sta71816.jpg

Here's a view of the matching camshaft that is also wiped out.

sta71821.jpg

Here is a view of the same camshafts other journal that is wiped out.

sta71819.jpg

Here is a view of the cap that mates to the head and also helps feed oil to the AVCS.

sta71824.jpg

If you look closely at this side of the cap. The left side is bad and the right side is what it is supposed to look like.

sta71825.jpg


All these were taken from an '05 STI that kept throwing the code no matter what parts we suspected and installed and was eventually subject to a teardown. These occurances are becoming more frequent and we're finding these on vehicles that have had their regular oil changes neglected. Typically 2000 to 5000 overdue for an oil change. So far, only on Legacy GT's and STI's (turbo). These cars are also 1-2 quarts low on oil. I imagine the AVCS is not receiving an adequate amount oil as well as the camshafts.

The other main factor, ABUSE. Keep telling yourself that your turbo mill is a race engine but it's not. It's a production engine with production tolerances.

The typical repair invloves replacing both cylinder heads, 4 camshafts, and sometimes the cam gears and even the block. If it has been determined it's due to neglect (and most of the time it is), this will not be covered under warranty. The labor is somewhere close to 20 hours.

Hope this sheds some light on your dilemma and helps clear up some of the misconceptions I'm finding here on the forums about these particular codes. Hope to see you soon! (For your oil changes of course

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

  • 836 Answers

SOURCE: I am getting a code

The code p0111 is for the intake air tempature sensor circuit. The p0121 is for the throtle posistion sensor. Have them check the conectors and maybe a loose ground wire for that harness as both are contained in it.
If a problem isn't found there, they should scan the readings from both sensors to see if thier reading are getting to the PCM. If no signal form them are reading, then have them look for wireing that was damaged when they did the work.

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Antifreeze leaking near thermostat housing on hole

Bad gasket maybe? Ive used high temp gasket sealer. But don't use too much.

Posted on Aug 07, 2011

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Best way to take it off


Acura Coupes and Sedans 1986-1993 Repair Guide
Fuel Filter

Print
The recommended change interval for the fuel filter on all models is 60,000 miles under normal service. Severe service will require more frequent changing of the fuel filter.
The filter is located in the passengers side of the engine compartment.

CAUTION Before disconnecting any fuel lines, be sure to open the gas tank filler cap to relieve any pressure in the system and wrap a shop towel around the fuel line fitting before opening. Observe all fuel handling precautions.


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1, 2 and 3

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Wrap a shop towel around the fittings and using a proper wrench, slowly loosen the fuel line fittings.
  3. Remove the 2 banjo bolts from the fuel lines.
  4. Remove the fuel filter clamp retaining bolt and the clamp.
  5. Remove the filter from the vehicle.

It is very important that ALL of the fuel line banjo bolt washers be replaced every time the banjo bolts are loosened. If the washers are not replaced the fuel lines will leak pressurized fuel causing the risk of fire or explosion.
  1. Install the new filter in position and tighten the clamp mounting bolt to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm).
  2. Attach the banjo fittings with new washers in place. On Legend and Vigor, tighten the fuel line flare connector to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm). On the remaining models, tighten the banjo fitting bolts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  3. Start the vehicle and check for leaks.



0900c152800494d0.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 1: Disconnecting the fuel lines from the fuel filter


0900c152800494d1.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Fuel filter replacement-1991-93 Integra


0900c152800494d2.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: Fuel filter replacement-Legend and Vigor

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Nissan altima 3.5l v6 2005 poo11


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What is code U3E22 for Jaguar S-Type 2006 ?


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2 Answers

I am getting a code poo11 and poo21 on my 04 forester xt. Had the engine rebuilt 3 months ago. Everyone seems to be lost. Help !


P0011 and P0021. Basically, this pertains to vehicles w/ AVCS. Yeah, there are bulletins on filters and other silly stuff that may apply to some peoples cars but there are other "underlying" issues at hand. Oiling problems to name one. Let me show you some examples that have passed through my shop within the last month (at least 4 different cars).


First off we have a view of the camshaft mains that are wiped out and no longer provide a good seal to feed enough oil pressure to the AVCS cam gears.

sta71816.jpg

Here's a view of the matching camshaft that is also wiped out.

sta71821.jpg

Here is a view of the same camshafts other journal that is wiped out.

sta71819.jpg

Here is a view of the cap that mates to the head and also helps feed oil to the AVCS.

sta71824.jpg

If you look closely at this side of the cap. The left side is bad and the right side is what it is supposed to look like.

sta71825.jpg


All these were taken from an '05 STI that kept throwing the code no matter what parts we suspected and installed and was eventually subject to a teardown. These occurances are becoming more frequent and we're finding these on vehicles that have had their regular oil changes neglected. Typically 2000 to 5000 overdue for an oil change. So far, only on Legacy GT's and STI's (turbo). These cars are also 1-2 quarts low on oil. I imagine the AVCS is not receiving an adequate amount oil as well as the camshafts.

The other main factor, ABUSE. Keep telling yourself that your turbo mill is a race engine but it's not. It's a production engine with production tolerances.

The typical repair invloves replacing both cylinder heads, 4 camshafts, and sometimes the cam gears and even the block. If it has been determined it's due to neglect (and most of the time it is), this will not be covered under warranty. The labor is somewhere close to 20 hours.

Hope this sheds some light on your dilemma and helps clear up some of the misconceptions I'm finding here on the forums about these particular codes. Hope to see you soon! (For your oil changes of course

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1 Answer

Hi i have 2001 toyota tacoma and a code reading p0001. what do that mean and where is that part located


there is not a code listed in the toyota repair manual p0001 but there is a poo11 and it is part of the vvt system and the code says bank 1 intake valve timing advance that there is a differance between crank and cam sensor signal to the computer. and could be a number of things from cam sensor,crank sensor,vvt solenoid,wiring,computer.this problem needs to be checked with a scan tool so each sensor can be checked and the right one replaced........good luck and i hope that this info helped..........let me and fixya know how i did and if i can help in any other way.........this is the only code that was close to what you had down and there is no pooo1 code ..............if you need any more help give me all the info that you can............

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3 Answers

Remove fuel pump from 97 powerstroke


Remove the plumbing that hooks the turbo to the intake make sure not to loose the square cut oring that hooks to the turbo on th y pipe. Remove the fuel filter housing there should be 3 or 4 fuel lines that need removed. Then there will be a icp solenoid that needs the connector removed. And I think one plug that hooks all the wiring on the fuel housing to the main harness. There will be 2 13mm bolts holding the housing down to the engine. You should be able to wiggle the housing and slide it forward some make sure you get some new fuel lines while your doing this as well I think its 3/8 fuel line make sure you cut them same length as original. Go ahead and get new clamps. Once you got the fuel filter housing out the way you can get to the bolts on the fuel pump. I used to take a cutting disk to the turbo pedistal but I ended up taking a wrench I think its like 1 1/4 wrench (not for sure) I took the wrench and cut it in half. Grinded the box end for clearance then heated it up and bent it. You then loosen that large banjo bolt on back of the fuel pump take care not to loose the two sealing washers I usually just slide to bolt back and leave it there. Then take the 2 bolts loose that bolt it to the block. Take a heal bar and pop it up. When reinstalling the pump if you cant get to bolts over cause the cam is holding the pump up you may need to turn the motor over so it slides down easier. Then start the 2 bolts leave em loose so that you can start the big banjo bolt. The put you new fuel lines on the fuel filter housing with new clamps reinstall that hook up the electrical connections. When you get ready to put the y pipe on make sure and use some brake clean to wipeout the residue on the orange rubber hoses. You may need to add some grease or vaseline to hold the square cut oring on the turbo then reinstall the y pipe. Sit back look it over make sure its hooked up good give it a start and then verify no fuel leaks. You will need a long flat blade screw driver to get to some of the clamps.

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