Question about 1992 Ford Taurus
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The engine mounts (2) and the transmission mount serve to hold the drive train compontents in the chassis and do so flexibly and with the strength exceeding the torque generated by the engine. If not for the mounts, when opening the throttle (in gear), the engine and transmission would lurch out of the engine compartment!
Check the mounts by raising the hood and, with the engine running, holding the brake firmly with one foot, select drive or reverse, briefly accellerate while holding the brake firmly--observe while doing this the engine will rise slightly (good) to a couple of inches (not good). Do not let the car move, nor let anyone stand in the car's path were it to move. Accellerate for not more than two seconds when checking the mounts.
To change them you need to raise the car and safely support on jackstands under the side rail of the car in the indicated position. I have been able to do this raising only the passenger side.
Then you will need to carefully lift the engine, too. I have used a hydralic "bottle Jack" placed under the block at the edge of the oil pan.
Using 18mm wrenches loosen the nuts at the top and bottom of the mounts. I change one mount at a time. Remove the nutsand the the worn mount (careful- it's fluid filled-- nasty stuff, you would not like spilling it on yourself).
You may have to lift the engine quite high and wiggle the mount around to clear getting it out and the new one in. Orient the mount correctly so that the tabs fit the slots, start the nuts on the studs carefully, you don't want these cross threaded, then tighten completely, having lowered the engine fully onto the new mount first.
Check the new mount as described above.
Be very careful in doing all of this. Use tire chalks, set the parking brake. Check that the car is secure on the stands prior to getting under it. Use common sense too.
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
Here's a link that may help you.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
"The" motor mount implies one of the three (actually the rear on is a transmission mount).
Loosen the bolts on the mounts that you are keeping.
Next, place a 2x6 about 1 ft long under the oil pan and place a jack under the oil pan and 2x6 board.
Apply pressure (just a little) to the jack.
Now, remove the bolts that hold the bad motor mount. Apply enough lift on the jack to get the engine weight off the motor mount (and no more).
Next, knock out the bad mount and insert the new mount. Insert the bolts (hand tighten).
Next, lower the jack until the block rests on the new mount. Tighten the other motor mount bolts and the new mount bolts (torque to about 35 Ft. lbs.)
You are done!
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
There should be only one front mount,there is a 18mm nut on the top of your motor mount below your a/c pump,and there is a 18mm nut on the mount up inside your frame,just remove these 2 nuts(place a jack with a piece of 2x4 on it so you dont destroy your oil pan)jack up the engine enough to remove the mount only,reinstall new mount make sure you install correctly,and facing correct way,remove jack and enjoy the ride
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
Testimonial: "awwsome thank you."
Tips for a great answer:
Apr 18, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks
May 22, 2011 | 1999 Ford Taurus
Aug 28, 2010 | 2003 Ford Taurus
Jul 15, 2010 | 1999 Ford Taurus
Oct 07, 2009 | 1998 Ford Taurus
May 31, 2009 | 1993 Toyota Camry V6
Apr 24, 2009 | 1996 Ford Taurus
Mar 21, 2009 | 2001 Ford Taurus
219 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: