Brake pedal is tight and feels like brakes are depressd when i let off the accelarator. this dosen,t happen all of the time. could it be brakes or torqueconverter?

If you step on the brake pedal and hold it down and you feel the pedal going slowly down, that's for sure your Master Cylinder unless you have a brake fluid leak from one of the calipers. If you have a brake fluid leak, you will notice it because you will have to keep on adding fluid to the system. If you notice a change in your RPM when you brake then you may have an air leak from your vacuum to manifold hose.

in a car ---replace the faulty brake boosted

Brake pedal goes to the floor? When does it happen. That is the most important piece of information. Most brake systems are power assisted via vacuum from the engine. Your brake booster is what makes the "power assist" work. There are some specific times when you will feel your brake pedal "fade" to the floor and it is normal due to the cycle of the brake components operation.If your brake pedal goes to the floor every time you step on it, stop driving and get to a repair facility! If the pedal is working when driving and the vehicle seems to be working as it always has, then chances are there is no concern. To be on the safe side, have it checked the next time you are in for any other type of service.There is a sensor inside most brake reservoirs that activates the indicator light in your instrument cluster when the level is lower than it should be. As your brake pads wear down, the system requires more fluid so the level at the reservoir drops setting the light. Same thing if there is a leak. The fluid level drops and the light goes on. This brake fluid leak would most likely be combined with a spongy pedal or a pedal fade every time you step on the brakes. A leak would also almost always have a wet area around the leak. Sometimes the leak can be internal to a part of the car you cannot see, so don't count on it.One easy way to check most brake boosters and the brake system for leaks is to turn the vehicle off and pump the brake pedal. Every time you depress the pedal you should feel the pedal "height" come up and the pedal get harder. After a few firm pumps of the pedal, hold it down. Leave pressure on the pedal for 20 seconds or so. Does the pedal move slowly (or quickly) to the floor? If so then there is a leak somewhere in the system. Keeping pressure on the brake pedal, start the vehicle. Does the pedal no drop? It should. That is the power assisted vacuum kicking in as the engine starts to run.The bottom line is that we are talking about your brakes. Your life, your passengers lives and the lives of others on the road around you depends on that system working properly. If you have any doubts, or feel uncomfortable, take it in to have it looked at. Know specifically what it is doing so that you can have your repair facility look at what you are feeling and tell you if

For left hand drive vehicles: (If the car does not have ABS system you do not need any diagnostic equipment!)

IMPORTANT NOTE: You need using diagnostic equipment connected to the data link connector of the car in order to bleed the ABS block. Follow instructions by scantool equipment for bleeding the ABS block.

1. This bleeding procedure requires two people. Remove the brake system reservoir cap, and fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached.
2. Lift the car, or use a channel for access under vehicle.
3. Put the gearbox in "N" - Neutral position, or in "P" - Parking position for automatic transmission.
4. Start the engine and push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor.
5. Begin with the rear right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
6. Repeat steps no.#4 and no.#5 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

7. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
8. Continue with the rear left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
9. Repeat steps no.#7 and no.#8 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

10. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
11. Continue with the front right wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
12. Repeat steps no.#10 and no.#11 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: All the time check the brake fluid level in the brake system reservoir, and fill up if necessary!

13. Push the brake pedal firmly for 4 - 5 times to the floor, and maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling.
14. Continue with the front left wheel. Another person remove the dust cap and loose the brake caliper bleeding screw until the brake pedal goes to the floor. At this moment maintain the brake pedal pushed to the floor, engine idling, and tight the brake caliper bleeding screw. Use a plastic hose: one end connected to the brake caliper bleeding screw, and another end inside a recovery bottle for used brake fluid.
15. Repeat steps no.#13 and no.#14 until no air flows through the brake caliper bleeding screw. Tight the brake caliper bleeding screw, and put the dust cap in their place.
16. Now the brakes are bleeded. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir. Fill up with new brake fluid until "MAX" level is reached. Put back the brake reservoir cap.
17. Test the car brake system. The brake pedal movement no more than 1/3 of total stroke until the floor, when brake pedal is applied. Maximum admissible is 1/2 of total stroke.

Check line on caliper you replaced it may not be tight enough and letting air into system.if this is not your problem rebleed brakes do not pump brake pedal while bleeding brakes. if you are not aware of how to properly bleed brakes email me at [email protected] and I will fill you in.

Iwould look at the front brakes one or bolth calipars could be sticking probably has to do with the abs problem witch has to do with the transmission problem Youshould have a part called the inter lock switch checked its on the side of the transmission its hooked to the gear shift but the transmission needs to know when the brakes are being applyed so it effects bolth and the computer dosen;t know what to do when this switch is bad so you have brake and transmission problems at the sametime

not sure if you mean while driving or when parked with the ignition off but here are a couple reasons on why the brake pedal may be high and low at different times. If the vehicle is running the brake pedal will feel the same just about every time. If the car is off and you step on the brakes it will get harder and harder to push down since there is no vacuum assist. Another reason would be the brake pad thickness. New brakes the pedal will feel higher where as worn brake pads the pedal may feel lower. Another reason would be if you have air in the brake lines. this will make the pedal feel mushy and soft at first and firm up as you pump the brakes. Hope this helps.

Sounds like your brake lamp switch is stuck. Brake lamp switch should take care of your issue. Cost under $25 bucks and is located on brake pedal. Not very hard at all to replace. Have a good one!

u need two people in order to bleed brakes one person pumps the brake pedal 6 times and holds it down until the other person unscrews the small bolt on the brake caliper and when the pedal sinks all the way down the other person screws back the caliper screw not too tight then repeat the same process 10 times until the brake feels right.

good luck

Check the emergency brake pedal and the brake pedal, just to be sure.