Question about Ford Focus
The outlet is shorted and should be replaced. What was the amp rating of the fuse that is failing? When you have the outlet working, you will need to check the power requirements of the breathing apparatus, and install the correct rated fuse. The existing fuse for the outlet is most likely a 2 to 5 amp and you may need to use a 15 amp for your machine. Try unplugging the wire from the back of the socket, and see if the fuse fails with the outlet disconnected. Look in the outlet and see if someone placed a coin in it.
Posted on May 25, 2017
It depends on how you want to go about it? You can go to your local auto store--wallmart or somewhere, find an auxiliary power socket, it's just a socket with a couple of wires on it. You can also get an inline fuse. Also get some automotive wiring proper size. Shouldn't cost much? I don't know the fuse rating for the apparatus? It may be drawing more than your regular fuse can handle, that's not good. You have to use the proper fuse and proper size wiring for the apparatus. Then if you wire it up externally off your battery, for voltage and ground, you don't have to worry about the vehicle wiring or fuse. Understand what I'm saying? I don't know if apparatus would run the vehicle battery down? The apparatus is made to run off automotive dc voltage?
Posted on May 25, 2017
If the fuse blows , it has a short to ground on the B+ side of thwe circuit . Don't know where you live ,so don't know what shops there charge ! Your probably looking at a least a hour diagnostic time . There are videos on youtube showing how to find a short . You would need to look at a wiring diagram to see what all that fuse supply's B+ voltage too. Then isolate the different circuits till the fuse doesn't blow . But if you haven't done electrical diagnostics before ?
Posted on May 25, 2017
There might be a short in the outlet itself.
Posted on May 25, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Open tailgate 2 screws hold housung in. Remonve the screws pull the huosing out and change bulb. On mine the housing had melted so O called the Ford garage and they got the socket out for me. I had to buy a new socket but that was it.
Posted on Aug 03, 2008
Your problem is you have a Hot Wire touching ground.I know this for sure! The quwstion is where is it?the cause of the problem. It can be fixed but you would have to have a lot of patience.Try using your nose,sniff out the smell of burned copper under the dash or in the trunk area if you can smell it you can find it.Up the rating of the fuse go 15 then 20 then 25 see if it still blows it shoud. I wished I were near you man I love these problems.Good luck!
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
Check the #15 fuse in fusebox behind marked panel on left lower dash just below and left of steering column. This is only a 5 amp fuse but it controls a lot. This fixed our 2001 Expedition. 25 cents.
Posted on Apr 04, 2010
i have a 2000 focus wagon and had the same problem. It's not the fuse! It's the wiring harness at the point where it leaves the body and goes into the hatch. When the hatch is opened and closed repeatedly after years the wires will break with constant bending. I had to solder together 7 wires and the problem was solved. It's a lot cheaper than replacing the entire wiring harness.
Posted on Jun 25, 2010
Wow! You just passed your first course in "Auto Repair 101". I don't have to explain it to you like I do 90% of the folks out there that think that a problem with their electrical circuit is caused by a fuse. I am constantly preaching that FUSES are NEVER the cause of a circuit failure. Blown fuses are ALWAYS the RESULT of a circuit failure. I tell them that the fuse is blown because it has given its life to keep your vehicle from burning to the ground. I go on to say that replacing that fuse without finding and correcting the condition that caused it to blow in the first place will only cause another fuse to have to give up its life to stop your car from toasting. In such cases, the first fuse will have died in vain. But you already figured that one out by yourself!
>>>>Let me see if I can help you....
Fuse #8 (Ignition), 30 Amp, located in the Battery Junction Box (under the hood) feeds the circuit which goes to Pin #5 (RED) in connector #13 at the Central Junction Box (Under left side of dash). Here, it provides the power source for the starter relay. It also branches off at this point and continues to the ignition switch. (A very likely place for your problem to be located)
From the ignition switch it returns to the Central Junction Box (CJB) via 5 separate circuits.
1. From Pin #7 on the ignition switch (Grey/Black) to Pin #4, Connector # 17 (CJB)
2. From Pin #6 on the ignition switch (Yellow) to Pin #6, Connector #17 (CJB)
3. From Pin #1 on the ignition switch (Green/Yellow) to Pin #1, Connector #13 (CJB)
4. From Pin #3 on the ignition switch (Black/White) to Pin #14, Connector #11 (CJB)
5. From Pin #5 on the ignition switch (Red/Black) to Pin #10, Connector #11 (CJB)
It also branches out from Pin #3 at the ignition switch and runs to Pin #2 in Connector #931 at the Gearshift Lever Unit.
At the Central Junction Box, it feeds several other (smaller) fused circuits. Your problem will not be beyond this point. (If it was, the smaller fuses would be blowing, not this one)
If there are any aftermarket accessories (i.e. Alarm, Remote Start, Stereo Amplifier, etc.) tied into any of these ignition circuits, I would try disconnecting them first, unless it is very obvious that there is something else wrong like a burned ignition switch connector.
The circuit from the Starter Relay to the Starter could also be the problem, but not very likely if the engine was running at the time that it blew.
Posted on Feb 01, 2011
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