Engine just quits. sit for 15 minutes to half hour and it will start and run for quite a qhile and then the same thing happens again. Seems to do it more often when the ambient temperature is high of hot. could it be a vpor lock in the fuel system or perhaps overheating of something in the electrical system

Does it quit smoothly but suddenly? Or does it sputter then stop?
It could be that the fuel cap has a defect that no longer allows air to enter the tank, thus causing a large pressure difference that the pump can no longer overcome. After sitting a while, the tank "equalizes" and the pump can resume its normal pressurization of the fuel system,

Sounds like the same problem I have been having with my 2002 Sedona for
the past 6 or 8 months. It would run OK for several days, weeks, or months,
then just quit. If I let it set for 10 to 20 minutes, it would restart and run fine
for at least the rest of that day. About 2 weeks ago, I was fortunate that it happened when someone was with me, so I was able to determine that it
was not getting any spark. Since then the problem has gotten worse and
more frequent - it was happening almost every day and would take over
1/2 an hour before it would start again. This morning was the last straw.
I drove for about 4 miles and it quit. Took 1 hour and 10 minutes before it
would restart. Drove another 2 miles and did it again. This time it took
1 hour 35 minutes before restart. After 1 more mile, it quit again. Took 2
hours, this time. Made it another mile and BAM! - did it again.
My bro towed me home. I determined that it is most likely NOT the crankshaft position sensor, because 99% of the time they either work,
or they don't. Very rarely does it cause in intermittant problem. The most
likely suspect is the engine computer. That was always a likely culpret
when I worked on GM cars. Today I installed a $50 junk yard engine control computer. I am crossing my fingers!
I will know on Thursday, as I have a 50 mile trip to make.
I will post again on Thursday, to let you all know.

start the car, if stop like after half an our to one our, and then after one our again start fine and can drive another 15 minute, again same thing happen and continue the same. is the problem same in your car, faulty crank angle sensor replace crank angle sensor,

This sounds like the electronics warming up.

The behavior of transistors varies greatly with temperature. The circuitry around them is designed to compensate for that, so that the behavior of the entire circuit is reasonably stable over the range of temperatures it is expected to encounter in normal operation.

As transistors age, their behavior can shift such that, when they are either quite warm, or quite cold, their parameters are too far off for the circuitry to effectively compensate.

The most frequent result of this in cars is for the device with the faltering components in it to fail completely at some point during the warm up phase, which, of course, is what you are experiencing.

If there is a separate electronic device that is responsible for the ignition (like the ignition module inside the distributor of a GM HEI ignition), I would suspect that first, followed by the engine's Electronic Control Module.

I had this happen once in a Ford. With mine, there were particules in the fuel from bad gas and it would clog the fuel screen on the pump. After not running for a while all the particles would fall off the screen and back into the fuel until I started it and they sucked back up. I dont know if this your problem but it sounds like what happened to me. It might be a place to start checking.

I'd be tempted to have fuel pressure checked, if at all possible, when it quits. If nothing else, carry a can of quickstart with you, and when it quits, remove air intake at throttle body inlet, and open throttle plate and give a good squirt of quick start, then try to start it. If it starts for a second or 2, then you know you have spark, but no fuel. I've seen fuel pumps work good while cool, and cut -out when it gets hot. Then sit and let pump cool off for 20 minutes or so, then pump up to pressure again and away we go, until it gets hot again. You might also find if you park in the shade, you'll get further, or even on a full tank. Another good idea would be to change fuel filter in case fuel pump is working too hard pushing fuel through a plugged filter, and causing low fuel pressure.

THE CAM SHAFT SENSOR IS GOING BAD. WE SEE THIS ALL THE TIME, YOU WILL NEED TO REPLACE IT. IT WILL BE LOCATED ON THE FRONT OF THE VALVE COVER OR THE PASS SIDE REAR OF THE COVER. IT IS ONLY HELD IN BY ONE BOLT SO YOU SHOULD HAVE NO TROUBLE REPLACING IT.

Try cleaning the fuel pump filter. Under the seat behind the driver lift the carpet and you will find a round cover with six screws remove the cover. The fuel pump is directly below unscrew the retaining round plate and remove the pump. At the base of the pump is a small filter if it is covered in black muck that's your problem. clean and replace. job takes about 10 mins good luck. please let me know how you got on!

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just went thru the same think wit a s 430 it was the crank position sensor . 60 bucks at auto zone and it took me 5min. 2 install if u need help feel free to call me 918 808 9706 chris

I have a 49cc cateye mini bike it starts idles fina dn every thing but when you ride it it goes fine i can reach around 55 almost 60 with the stock engine but it seems to quit on my after about 15 mabey a little less sometimes and then will not start for about another half hour