Question about 2001 Oldsmobile Aurora
Does your cooling system hold pressure when it is hot? Is there the chance that either your surge tank or radiator cap is defective? It has to hold pressure when hot to function properly, and without a thermostat you will have issues with the car operating in open loop, causing damage to the engine and catalytic converter, not to mention possibly not getting heat in cold weather. You are aware that these engines (called 'shortstars') have issues with head gaskets-was it recently overheated. and is that why all this work was done? I have a 2001 Aurora with a 4.0, you have to watch the coolant level like a hawk on these engines (and on the 3.5, a sawed-off 4.0, I have one of them too, a 2000 Intrigue). If you are getting air pumped into the surge tank, you have a head gasket issue, or a cracked/warped head)-check your fluid level when the engine is cold, like after it sat overnight-fill it SLIGHTLY above the full cold mark, and start it, let it run with the coolant cap off until it gets to normal operation temp (half way up)-you may have a hard time getting it hot enough though, without the thermostat. Once at full operating temp. make certain the level is again SLIGHTLY above the full mark on the surge tank. If you are getting bubbles at this point, your block is not the issue, but the all too common head gasket(s) are-good luck, and if you get new head gaskets done, make certain you are using new bolts for the heads.
Posted on Mar 21, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Having a blocked heater core will not make the engine over heat. You will just not get any of the heat from the fluid that would normally be pushed through the heater core because your core or cores are blocked (I think you have two cores if you have a rear heater.). The engine does not need your interior heater cores to keep cool. When you select "heat" on your console, either a valve opens up and allows fluid to move through the lines to your heater cores and or an air duct opens to the cores to blow air across them...
Did your heater work before your work?
Does the gauge stay pegged or does it fluctuate?
If your gauge now fluctuates after your work, it would indicate to me that there is air trapped in the engine or bubbles passing by. The air does not cool the engine block as well so the temp will rise quickly. It will then cool a bit as the coolant splashes by. If your gauge is staying hot and never moves, it could mean: you are missing a lot of coolant, trapped air near the temp sender, or your thermostat is not opening. A closed thermostat would make the gauge go all the way hot and stay hot. The thermostat can be checked with a pan of boiling water on the stove. When boiling, put the thermostat in the water and check to see if it opens. It is also important that the thermostat is installed in the correct direction. The temp sensor much be on the engine side. I am also assuming your pump shaft is not sheared and is still connected to the impeller and it is spinning as well. You can take your belt off and move it by hand to see if you feel any resistance. If you are sure the thermostat is opening and the pump circulating, I would then check and see if you have air in trapped in your system. I looked at my Uplander and noted a lot of hoses and metal pipes at a higher level than the filler neck of the radiator. Perhaps, when you filled your system back up from the radiator, that a lot of air got trapped in the upper part of the engine and the heater lines. I also saw that there were little brass valves near were the hoses connect near the pump and on the driver side. I would suggest running the engine and open and close the little brass check valve on the divers side to see if you have fluid or just air coming out. I wouldn
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