Question about 1994 Ford Escort
Drip drip every three seconds.when switched off nothing leaking .from what i can see .theres a rubberwater pipeat the back across the pump as you look down over the body of the injector pump obstructing the full view of the problem as in exactly where this leak is occuring.any suggestions?..whats behind that water pipe on the side facing away from view?..
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: ford escort diesel 1996 1.8
The colour of the oil will depend of the where the leak may be from.
If the oil seems tobe a light brown in colour it would sugest that a brake pipe or rubber hose has failed. The flexible rubber hose is a very common fault on this paticular vehicle as the brake flexi hose is secured on the shock absorber / front hub assembly. The brake fluid level should be checked and if found to be low it would indicate that this is the problem. If this is the case , in some rare circumstances the fluid can cover the brake pads. If this is the case then the front brake pads should be changed and all parts thouroughly cleaned with water as the brake fluid is hydroscopic which means it absorbs water and water alone will wash of the brake fluid and stop any further corrosion this may cause.
If the driveshaft gaiter has failed the colour of the oil would be a very dark green almost black, but you will only have a small amount of this within the system so it is very unlikely to be this.
If the oil is very dark brown, almost black then this will normally be the front crankshaft oil seal or camshaft seal. Both of these require removal of the cam belt assembly if you have the CVH engine ( if you have a large silver top cover on the engine ) or if you have a slim black cover this is a Valencia engined model which is very easy to work on in replacing the front crankshaft oil seal but does not have a camshaft seal like the CVH engine but it does have a rocker cover gasket like the CVH engine which are very prone to going hard through lack of maintanance as it is made from cork and does go hard with age and then leak oil.
Good luck with car and if any further help is required then just ask.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
some of these are difficult to do where an autoadjuster is used,quicker and easier to use an official ford garage who have a big book with all the times in it and often you are only charged for the time charged in the book but watch out for the golden egg,this is where you are charged for lots of parts that didnt need changing just to make up for an awkard job thats un-economic for the dealer so extra parts are fitted that didnt need changing just to make up for the shortfall in labour charge.
Posted on Nov 04, 2008
if you have the owners manual-look in the index for oil capacity, or fluid capacities. that should inform you of the oil type and capacity (if you change the filter as well, it will prob. take another half-quart or so. the manual should inform you.
if no manual get on ford website, and search for escort 1.8L diesel van. precede with the year of model.it may inquire whether you have a/c, 4wd, etc. may need more oil, if so.
Posted on Sep 09, 2009
Testimonial: "already looked in the manual, it only says fuel tank capacity not my oil, but yes i shall try the ford website. ive a feeling its around 5 litres."
I'm not particularly familiar with that vehicle but all that I have seen also have a valve that opens and closes to allow or restrict the fluid flow to the heater core. It could be a problem if you haven't already eliminated it. The air defecting doors under the dash that direct air to the floor or to the defroster are also suspect.
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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The most common cause of all oil leaks is the valve cover gasket. The oil drips down from there and covers everything. If your valve cover is leaking, replace it first.
Then the second most common leak in the front of the engine is the crankshaft seal. This seal should have been replaced when the timing belt is replaced as you have everything removed to get to it, and the seal is easy to replace. However if it is not replaced at that time then you will have to remove everything again to access it. The seal is 3 or four dollars, but the labor is two to three hours and you should replace the timing belt, idler pulleys, tensioner and water pump when you are in there, as that will all be removed. Hope this help. Good luck :O)
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