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Re: mini valve caps
Sounds like someone tightened them up too much when the pressures were last checked. Back in England it was common to have these type of valve caps stolen so most owners either fitted the cheap horrible black plastic type or put a spanner to the originals.
If in doubt run it into your local dealer and if he breaks it he has to replace it.
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Get the pressure sensors checked. Does it show you which tyre? If so you could swop it with 1 from a tyre which doesn't show a fault and see if the issue moves with it. If it doesn't move, then is coud be a cabling issue, caught white, short or similar.
just block off the the EGR valve with a home made gasket from a coca cola can ,its not important and will not stop the car from running ,check the fuel pressure as this i think could be the problem it should read 55lbs ,on the fuel rail is tyre valve looking thing ,undo the cap and put a pressure gaug on here ,one of them stick type tyre pressure gauges will do the job as your in the middle of nowhere ,just check the fuel line pressure and iam sure you wll find its low and new pump could be the order of the day
try reading the codes if none found check the fuel line pressure it should read 55lbs on the injector fuel rail is a tyre valve looking thing you read the pressure from here with ordenary tyre valve gauge you know the one that pops out and you can the pressure .
Could be a glitch in the software. Check wit a dealer for recalls, have your VIN number ready. If none then unplug the ABS and plug it back in. could be a bad connection. This can and does happen with all connections. including fuse Check for corrosion
First time I've done this on the R and after hearing various scare stories of it taking a while or being a tricky job involving Vag-com etc I thought I'd share my experience today.
Firstly you will need:
7mm spanner - front bleed nipple 11mm spanner - rear bleed nipple 9mm spanner - clutch bleed nipple length of clear hose - makes clutch bleed easier Eazi-Bleed Pressure Bleeder - because pedal pumping is for women 2 ltr brake fluid - Halfords Hi Perf 5.1 for me, run it in race cars and it works spare wheel - for the Eazi-Bleed R32 compressor - it's in the boot...keep that spare wheel at the right pressure
Ok, this is an easy job to do and very satisfying when done right, improved braking and clutch pedal motion...it should take you no more than about 1.5 hours all in and you should use around 1.5ltr of fluid.
Start off by connecting up the Eazi-bleed as per the instructions, making sure your spare wheel (I used the space saver from my Jag) is at 14.5-15psi. Once you've attached it to the reservoir and are sure there is no hissing (leaks), disconnect the tyre and fill the eazi-bleed with your new fluid. Re-attach tyre to build pressure.
Starting at offside side front, remove wheel, locate bleed nipple, remove cap, attach length of hose (directed at pan/bowl/jug), use the 7mm spanner to loosen the nipple just enough so the fluid starts to flow through. Don't open it too much and always keep an eye on the eazi-bleed bottle not getting too low on fluid). Keep an eye on the fluid coming through the pipe and when bubbles (there shouldn't really be any) have stopped and the fluid seems clear and clean. Tighten up the nipple.
Repeat the process, with front nearside, rear offside, rear nearside...eachtime checking the eazi-bleed bottle (topping up when needed as per instructions) and the condition of the fluid. You should use around 1ltr on the brakes as you're flushing the rubbish dot 4 as well as bleeding them.
With that all done, locate the bleed nipple for the clutch. It's right between the battery and engine and fairly accessible. Again, remove the nipple, fit your pipe, then loosen around 1/4 turn to see the fluid come out fairly quickly..you may want to fill up the eazi-bleed before starting this as it'll take about 500ml to do.
Pump the clutch pedal by hand, it'll go straight to the floor...it's normal. Pump it around 15-20 times keeping an eye on the EB bottle, you should notice some pressure come back to the pedal although it still won't return itself without you pulling it up.
Tighten up the bleed nipple, making sure when you remove the pipe to not get any on your car or paintwork. Disconnect the tyre, replace the reservoir cap and go test your silky smooth clutch.
it has a left handed thread if i remember rightly ,and i couldnt get it to undo so i tapped it with a small chisel and big hammer ,hey presto it started to undo with the spanner then ,iam sure it was a 32mm spanner but ??
there is a small black canister on the firewall first take the fuel cap off to release pressure then crack top nut with 19mm socket and undo bottom with 14mm spanner release bracket with 10mm socket and slide it straight then put it back in the way you took it out just beware of the brass washers
If you have the "Mini Mobility System" your car has a tube of tyre sealant and an electric air pump. These are locate in the boot (trunk) under the carpet.
Shake the tube of sealant. Screw the filler hose onto the bottle. Unscrew the dust cap from the tyre valve. Unscrew the valve insert from the tyre valve using the screw device (very important). Push the tube of tube of sealant onto the tyre valve and hold the bottle with the cap pointing downwards. Squeeze the bottle and force the entire contents into the tyre. Replace the tyre valve insert using the screw tool (most important).
Get the electric pump and connect the hose with the pressure guage onto the tyre valve. Connect the pump electric plug into the cigarette socket in the car or power outlet in the boot (ignition key needs to be on position 1). Inflate the tyre to 1.8 - 2.5 bar. Switch the pump off for a moment to check the pressure accurately. Unscrew the compressor, and put everything away in the boot. IMMEDIATELY drive your car for about 10 minutes. This is to distribute the sealant throughout the tyre. Do not exceed 60km/h. After driving for 10 minutes, recheck the tyre pressures using the pump or at a service station. Continue your journey but keep below 80km/h until you have the tyre checked or replaced.
hi there the solution is simple, you only need to undo the screw on top of the side light/indicator. then facing the head light place a flat headed screw driver under the bottom lip of side light. the bottom of the lihgt is on a small push fit stud, use a sponge or cloth to protect your bumper paint work then just apply pressure gently to lever side light out towards you, It will come dont worry, you may then change your bulbs if you wish remove the whole light unit you will see the bottom bolt as soon as you release the side light. to replace just push back into place then replace screw. whole job takes about five minutes