Question about 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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My VW is losing boost . The 1st turbo packed up so a backyard mechanic replaced it with another one . When it is cold you can feel the turbo starts boosting , but only up to 2500 rpm then it loses its boost . When the car heats up all the boost is gone .

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  • Volkswagen Master
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Ur bacyard mech may hav done things bacward--u need a haynes or some other repair manual/turbo book--scan car using tech II with a data stream for precise solution

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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Have a dt466 in a 4300 flatbed 2006. starts and runs smooth. very poor power, worse cold. clean filters and clear pickup in tank. turbo whistles but feels like no boost. any ideas ?


could be alot of things. sucking air some where in fuel system. leaks in the pressure side of turbo, stuck wastegate on turbo.

Sep 16, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Polo Losing Turbo at random intervals


Friend, I can't help you with the computer problem, cause that's where the problem is arising from, but I will tell you it was not the turbo to begin with. The turbo operates from exhaust being forced thru it. Turbos are manual operational and have nothing to do with the computer. Except for the fact there are only sensors hooked to it for temp readings and the like. Good luck.

May 12, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

97 vw sharon tdi has full power to start with when driving but under load power drops of as if the turbo stoped working switch it of and on and it goes ok for a wee bit and does the same thing again


In your case the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAS, VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo out from the engine. Then disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism, and refit all in reverse order.


Good Luck!

Sep 22, 2011 | Volkswagen Passat Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When driving, the turbo shuts down and I lose power. After shutting the car off for 15-20 minutes, the turbo resets and works again. Sometimes it will work for a few days, other times it may only work...


Check the spark plugs, I have seen several VW turbos with this problem. The aluminum heads expand and contract to fast and crack the porcelain on the plug causing the engine to misfire when the turbo spools up and makes boost. The misfire drops the engine and trans into a "safe mode" where it loses power.

Apr 01, 2011 | 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

2 Answers

I have a 95 subaru impreza classic and i have just re mapped it and changed the exhaust to a full de cat,dump valve,and induction kit,but the turbo nds to be at 1.2 to 1.3 bar ,so i would like to know how...


the waste gate is probably controlled by a vaccuum line. i have seen some home grown devices that would adjust the ammount of vaccuum signal the wastegate actuator recieves, there are also some turbo boost controllers that are available in the aftermarket that let you adjust the boost pressure from the driver seat and some even include a "turbo timer" that keeps the car running a predetermined ammount of time after you turn off the ignition so you dont melt down a turbo by just parking the car hot. of course the backyard stuff is cheap and somewhat effective, the turbo boost control unit is a much safer and more precise way of doing it. sounds like you already have some cash invested in this, it would be a shame to lose it over the cost of a boost control unit and melt your engine down by overboosting it and blowing out the head gaskets or the manifold blowing off. this is one i found rather quickly on the internet http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?id=355

Mar 24, 2011 | 1995 Subaru Impreza

1 Answer

Hi, I have a 2006 5speed TDI Jetta, the car will start to **** and feel like its about to stall in 3rd or 4th gear. When the car comes to a complete stop, I notice that it eats up a lot more gas, moves...


In the most cases for VW TDI engines the turbocharger is responsible for engine losing power.
The car goes in "limp home" mode!!!
After scan the EDC-15P engine control unit with a VAG or KTS -BOSCH diagnosis tool you will find this: Fault code: P1557-Turbo Boost pressure control exceeded
1. Engine stopped and ignition switch off. Check all pneumatic connections and hoses between turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control, boost-pressure control solenoid valve, vacuum reservoir, EGR control solenoid valve, intake-manifold flap solenoid valve, EGR valve with throttle - part of intake manifold. Also the vacuum connection between tandem pump and brake booster. If you find something wrong replace parts. If not go to step 2.
2. Extract the hose of the turbocharger actuator = pressure unit for boost-pressure control part of turbocharger. Instead of the original hose you must place another 1 meter long hose with the same inside diameter, and then you check to inspire yourself the air from the other one extremity of this hose. The mechanical connecting rod of the turbocharger actuator must have a smooth and whole motion. If you can do that with your mouth, then you must replace the boost-pressure control solenoid valve. If you can not reach this with your mouth, then you go to step 3.
3. This is the most difficult work. The problem is that the soot particles deposits inside the turbocharger plugging the variable nozzle geometry mechanism = adjustable vanes of the turbine. If the turbocharger actuator is not able to adjust the turbine vanes the charge air pressure increase too much and ECU (engine control unit) go in "limp mode" = engine protection software. As a result the "limp home" mode engine still running until you turn the engine off (ignition switch off) and back on when the "limp mode" is deactivated, but the fault still remain in ECU memory!
4. You must be able to extract the turbo from the engine and then to disassemble the turbocharger, clean inside adjustable vanes mechanism and refit all.

Dec 09, 2010 | Volkswagen New Jetta Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I got a 1995 eagle talon.it has a coil pack.how


Does it have a turbo? Sounds like it does. Might need replacing.

Feb 04, 2010 | 1995 Eagle Talon

1 Answer

Vw tdi turbo dying


check the rubber pipes are not collapsing ,they run from the air filter to the turbo if they appear ok then replace the turbo

Jun 16, 2009 | 1999 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Vehicle has loss of power when accelerating


The 100 series td is boost limited for 1st gear , this was a factory design to stop consumers getting overexcited at the traffic lights etc! If you think you are getting no power or boost in first (which would be odd) then connect a boost gauge to the turbo pressure vsv (vacum switching valve) on the intake manifold to see what sort of pressure you are getting.
All this can get a little bit involved ie type of motor 1hdt,1hd-fte etc etc, repost if you need further.

Mar 12, 2009 | 2004 Toyota Land Cruiser

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