Question about Ford E-350

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I'm trying to replace the RH tie rod on a '00 Ford E350 van. It goes from the Pittman arm across to the RF wheel and the Left tie rod connects to it about 8" from the PA end. How do you separate these parts from each other? I have loosened the clamps on the adjustment for the RH wheel, and removed both cutter pins and nuts from the previously mentioned joints. After doing so I tried to pry each of the joints apart but had no luck.

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The tie rod ends are pressed in and you need a tool called a "pickle fork". It is a driver that has the end shaped to fit and wedge between the ball and socket. You have really clobber it because front ends are made not to fall apart.

Posted on Mar 20, 2011

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You need to check your front end very close. Start by making sure the ball joints and all 4 tie rod ends are tight, zero movement by hand. Also check the pittman arm, off the steering box and the idler arm, from the frame on passenger side. They should not have any play. Work all the tie rod ends on the drag link, which hooks them together. Sometimes the holes in it will wear. The tie rods shouldn't move in it. Have a look at the control arm bushings. If they are squished out and noticably cracked then they need to be replaced. Check both the uppers and lowers.
If that all checks out then the problem is wear in the steering box and that does have some adjustment but not really enough to take 2" of play without making other problems. You'll have to replace it. Hope this helps.

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How to change the pittman arm and idler arm on a 1999 S10 Chevy Blazer 4x4?


Pitman arm requires a pitman arm puller, and a tie rod seperator or "pickle fork". Remove the cotter pin on from the joint on the pitman arm and center link, then remove the nuts from both ends of pitman arm. Use the pitman arm puller to remove the pitman arm from the steering gear, then use the tie rod seperator to remove the end from the center link. Reinstall and retighten nuts, do not leave out the cotter pin.
Idler arm will require tie rod seperator. Remove the cotter pin from the end at the center link, use the tie rod seperator to seperate the joint there. Unbolt the idler arm from the frame, and remove. On reinstalling remember to install a new cotter pin. It would be best to have the front end alignment checked after replacing these parts.

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85 Jeep Steering box.....Im trying to disconnect the steering rod from the box, and I removed bolt that goes through what looks like a clamp.......But I cant get it to come loose


If you are trying to remove the steering rod from the pittman arm on the steering box you're going to need a tie rod seperator. It looks like a two prong fork that the prongs are progressively tapered. You slip it between the rod end and the arm and beat it with a hammer. The force will eventuall wedge the two apart. It would also help to soak it with penetrating lube for a few days first.

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2000 F350 4x4. Has a 6 or 8 in lift not sure, just bought it used with stock tires. The steering is loose, i can turn the steering wheel about 4 or 5 inches and tires wont turn. Tie rods and steering...


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1995 Ford Crown Victoria - shakes/vibrates @ highway speeds.


Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book

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Power steering going bad,need info about rackard pinion


you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture
  1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
  1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
  1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
  1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
  1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
  1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
  1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
  1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
  1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
  1. Partially raise vehicle.
  1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
  1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
  1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
  1. Raise vehicle.
  1. Remove drain pan.
  1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
  1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
  1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
  1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
  1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
  1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
  1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
Installation
  1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
  1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
  1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
  1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
  1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
  1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
  1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
  1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
  1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
  1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
  1. Remove flex tube holder.
  1. Partially lower vehicle.
  1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
  1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
  1. Lower vehicle.
  1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
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  1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
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  1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
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  1. Fill and purge system.
  1. Check operation.
  1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .

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2 Answers

2006 Ford Ranger vibration on steering wheel and noise @ 110 Km/h


Check your brake rotors and make sure they are not warped. another option could be a wheel bearing issue but i think that would be highly unlikely(they usually whine and it get louder as you go faster)
. Also to look at is did this suddenly appear AFTER you had the truck's shocks serviced?
If so then have another shop check it over and explain to them that one shop did such and such service..got a vibration/noise and could you check the safety of it? loose bolt...a forgotten part..you get the idea. hope i gave you some leads at least.

Mar 13, 2009 | 2001 Dodge Stratus

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