Question about 2001 Pontiac Bonneville

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2001 Pontiac Bonn. has no power to the inst. panel when turning the key to accessory position. Other problems that also exist are, no power to the following, radio, heater/acc controls, wipers. When door is opened, a security light will blink and when the ignition key is installed and turned on, the security light continues to blink. I have replaced the ignition housing that the key cylinder is recessed in (except for the key cylinder). I have also tried to re-program the key, once with a 10 minute reset and once with a three 10min interval but still no power. Where do I go from here?

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  • Douglas Makovsky Apr 01, 2011

    Found out that if I jumper out the ign 1 relay, (under rear seat), I can get power to the switch and dash lights. What controls the relays? Ground? Is there any ground diagrams for the wiring or any pictures showing ground areas?

  • Douglas Makovsky Apr 03, 2011

    Relay does have power to them on one terminal and all grounds check good. I tinkered some more with this and here is what I have came up with. The 15amp fuse (under back seat) labeled Ign switch, is good and has power to it. If I pull the fuse, I loose interior lights and such. Ok..thats expected. Now here is where the problem comes into play. The Orange wire from bottom of fuse box (under rear seat) has no power going to the ign switch. I am assuming this is a constant power from battery and tied in with the "ignition switch" fuse. Continuity is good from bottom of connector (of the rear fuse box) to the ign switch on this orange wire. If I run a fused jumper wire (positive source) from bottom of the connector of rear fuse box, to this orange wire, I have power to the switch and dash now works. I can not see continuity, from bottom of this connector terminal to the 15 amp ign switch fuse. My guess...I should be. So, without 15 amp fuse and orange wire jumped = ign. switch working but no ctsy lights. Fuse put back in and orange wire jumped = ign. switch working and also ctsy lights (no matter what, still missing heater and radio). So.... fuse box buss blown?? Is there a way to disassemble the rear fuse box to check for any damage internal. And if so, how does it come apart?

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I would have suspected the ignition switch, but it sounds like you've replaced it. It is internal to the housing you described. The first thing to do is to actually check for power at the ignition switch. There are 2 connectors going to it. One provides power, the other sends out power when key is turned. Check for good 12V at both the larger red wires, they should be battery powered and live all the time. If you have power on them then turn the key to run, you should have power on the orange wires (ignition feeds). The large yellow wire should only have power when key is in crank position. If there is not 12V at the red wires all the time then likely you have a large (maxi fuse 60A) under the hood electrical center blown. It could also be a blown fusible link coming off the starter battery post that feeds the electrical center if the fuses are good but no power across them.

Posted on Mar 19, 2011

  • 3 more comments 
  • Douglas Makovsky Mar 21, 2011

    I have checked the fuses under the back seat and all are good. After checking the fuses under the hood, found the large fuses have power and so do the relays, but no power to the smaller fuses. Found no issues with current going to the starter wire (fuse able link). Could I be looking at a PCM problem? Does the PCM control all the ignition, wiper, inst. cluster and so forth?

  • Kevin Thorpe Mar 21, 2011

    Its not the PCM, however the BCM (body control computer) controls most of those features. It could be that one of those smaller fuses are the main power circuit which controls the BCM. I have experienced internal fuse panel problems, where they can melt the primary power circuits that feed multiple fuse banks, but I wouldn't suspect it. I don't have access to a proper schematic here at the time, but I will check into it tomorrow for you and try to track down the most likely cause or problem area.

  • Kevin Thorpe Apr 01, 2011

    I'll check into the IGN 1 relay circuit. I would assume that the BCM controls the ground, but I can't say for sure.

  • Kevin Thorpe Apr 01, 2011

    Ok I found the ign 1 relay, it should have power at all times on one terminal, power on another when key in run. With the ignition fed terminal it is constantly grounded at G302 splice pack. It is located under the left rear seat, in a black connector, with lots of other black ground wires attached inside. The final terminal goes to power up the ign fuse and about 10 other circuits. Check the ground splice pack for a bad ground. Make sure you have battery power on the one terminal, this comes directly from the battery post at the rear fuse panel. If you have power to the battery post, but no battery power at any relay terminal, then you have an internal fuse panel problem, like I first described.

  • Kevin Thorpe Apr 03, 2011

    By jumpering the orange wire all you are doing is applying power to the ign switch. This is the main power wire to the ign switch thru the 15A ign fuse (not the ign 1 fuse) in the rear. Both the ign relay and the ign fuse are powered internally on the same circuit in the rear fuse panel. I do suspect an internal fuse panel problem. They do come apart but are not necessarily repairable.They use solid copper rails from fuse to fuse, not internal wires. If you find one blown it may be possible to replace it with a wire, but you will need the proper terminals that attach to the fuse and relay, in the top side of the panel.

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