Question about Plymouth Voyager
SOURCE: ignition tumbler key
Place key into ignition, use a paper clip and press the tiny hole on the switch. Turn the key back towards ACC position and pull the cylinder right out. Reverse procedure to install.
Posted on Jun 12, 2008
Go to autozone's website at autozone.com and register your vehicle. It's free, handy, and you will have access to a full online repair manual for your particular vehicle. Hope this helped, and good fixin'.
Posted on Jul 19, 2009
Pretty straight forward depending on engine size, and whether you have distributor, or coil block. Blow out around spark plugs before removing if you have equipment. I'd seriously consider new plug wires if those are the originals, as well as distributor cap & rotor. Change one wire at a time and save yourself more trouble. Your plug gap etc should all be on hood or rad support, on the sticker. Do yourself a favor, and buy "Champion" Spark plugs as listed on sticker. I've seen too many Chrysler/Dodge products run terrible, not start, you name it, with other brand of plugs. Hardest part will be getting to them, so make sure you have extensions for your ratchet, short one, long one, universal etc, and it should make it much easier. My 3.8L has one at back of engine that is a nightmare to change. Depending on what engine, I found it easier to put vehicle on ramps & change rear ones from under the van. Any other questions or info needed, like perhaps your sticker is gone or not readable, get back to us & we'll get you that info. Good Luck, let us know how it goes.
Posted on Aug 30, 2009
Spray some wet grafite spray in the key slot,plenty of spray and work the key back and forth.Remove the battery cables and clean the battery terminals ,and the battery post real shiney,and put them back on.Make sure you have good battery voltage also.Don`t take it for granted that the battery is good,take it off and have it checked and or charged on a good slow(2 amp) charge.Now when you are sure the battery is good ,and the connections are good,then if the starter clicks,grab the shifter and pull it up and down without moving out of park,while you hold the starter engaged.If it starts then the neutal safty switch is bad.Now if it keeps on clicking(it will be the starter clicking)replace the starter.You can lightly tap the starter with ahammer while trying to start the van,and start it,but the starter will need to be replaced.If I can help you any further,let me know.>>>firstname.lastname@example.org
Posted on Sep 23, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks so much Roniecon. You were right and after cleaning all connections it worked... i am driving again. "
The flashing lights on the HVAC unit. These lamps, all flashing in unison, mean that you need to do a calibration on the unit. As long as the calibration works, the lights will all go out. Here's how you do it...
Start with a warm interior temperature in the van, so either drive it or leave it in the sun for a bit.
Start the engine and set the HVAC to PANEL, HIGH BLOWER SPEED, FULL COLD.
Then push the LEFT-TOP and LEFT-BOTTOM buttons at the same time and hold it until you see a change in the lamp flashing. Release the buttons and let it go through its calibration.
When done, if you see only one LED flashing, push the button and you're done. All LEDs will be out.
But if Two LEDs remain flashing, you need to do the cool-down test, which is why the van needs to be warm.
Press and hold the LOWER LEFT and FAR-RIGHT button the same as before with all settings the same until the LEDs change and release the buttons. Allow the cool-down test to run and repeat the button push maneuver if one is left flashing (a passing grade). If it still shows two or more LEDs flashing, you'll need to see someone for actual repairs... either calibration failed or your A/C system isn't cooling.
Your single blower speed is the result of a blown diode in the blower motor resistor block, often the result of a blower motor that's drawing a bit too much current. All lower speeds run through the diode, so when it dies all you're left with is the high speed which is a direct feed. It's usually recommended that the blower motor be replaced at the same time as the blower motor resistor, but due to the difficulty in getting the motor out, I'd sure understand if you just replaced the resistor first. They're fairly inexpensive and easy to replace by comparison... being mounted on the HVAC unit behind the glove box.
Your intermittent on and off starting problem is probably a bad starter, which MAY also be related to your intermittent no-start... hard telling. Starters that engage, kick out and re-engage are often just plain worn out and you're seeing the result of poor brush contact with the motor itself. Intermittent no-crank conditions can be the result of the same problem, but there are a number of other possibilities.
The stalling problem is something I can only speculate on, unfortunately. This model year offered no way to check codes in your engine controller (PCM) without an actual scan, so you'll have to have that done before I'd even offer a guess. Your local AutoZone auto parts store will scan your van free of charge if that would be convenient.
Posted on Apr 07, 2010
The triangular-mounted AC belt must come off first.
At the top pulley is a small bracket and hex screw. This is a jackscrew, which when loosened, will lower the top pulley and the belt will become slack. If jackscrew become detached from pulley, just raise pulley by hand to reconnect, and tighten screw to re-thread.
The larger serpentine belt is loosened by performing a Righty-Tighty to the tensionner pulley. The belt will easily slip off all pulleys. Be sure to follow diagram to install new belts. Remove plastic shield under engine for access to lowest pulleys. I recommend tying up belt above top pulley, threading around everything except tensioner, then untying & position belt over tensionner.
Posted on Aug 09, 2010
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