Question about Ford Fairmont
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It is fairly easy. On these cars, you don't need to unbolt the caliper, or remove it. If you remove the two pins, the brake pad will just slide out. The two pins are held in by an arrangement of wire clips. You need to squeeze the wire clip, and lever it back, then pull it clear of the pin. It is difficult to explain, but quite easy to figure out. You don't need to use any tools, you should be able to remove the spring clip thing by hand.
Posted on Apr 21, 2009
start by unplugin the electric fans then remove the two 10mm bolts holding them in, the bottom of the fans are held in by a slot that they sit in so after you remove 2 bolts just lift the fans out. then you will see a tensioner i think it has 3/8 drive square hole in it( could be 1/2'' drive) just pull it down with a long bar with a 3/8 end on it to release the tension, while doing that slide the belt of,. if your car doesnt have a picture diaghram on the under side of the bonnet for drive belt routing draw a picture incorprating all the pulleys an how the belt goes around them. once the belt is of put the new one on exept over the power steering pump pulley, then pull on the tensioner again to release tension and slide the belt over the p/s pulley. these instruction are for the 4.0l falcon motor, the 5.0 v8 is really similar
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
there should be no brake fluid comming from the caliaber at all.look on the in side of the caliaber on the top and bottom you should see 2 long bolts. they may be hexagon,allen key, or a bolt. there are the 2 you are looking for. DO NOT SET PARKING BRAKE. when you take the bolts out you will see 2 small shafts where the bolts came out of. they must be push back in flat with the caliaber ( you may or may not have them). you have to open the lid where you add brake fluid. now take off the front pad leave the pad on in the hole. take your C-CLAMP and place it over the caliaber and the brake pab and compress the piston until it flat with the caliaber. ( you will repeat this on the other side ) at this point take your dic brakequit spred a coating on the parts thats need. ( referr to the old parts ) dont get anything on the front of the pad. let the pad sit for about 5min. ( smoke a cigarette. if you dont smoke i will teach that in part 2 ) now that the dic brake is tacky place the one that fixs in the hole on first now the outter one. slide it back on you may have to tap it in place after its seated replace the bolts. now your going to see that it has a gap between the brake pad and the rotor.replace the lid on where you add brake fuild. put the tier back on the car and pump your brakes. it should get hard. ( not you the brake pedal ) now repeat these steps for the other side.
you may have two bleed your brakes because you let fuild out that means you let air in. PLEASE let me know if this helped you.
Posted on May 10, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Front Brake Caliper: All But FLSTS/FXSTS
Remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap to be able to check the fluid level as the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper because the fluid level may rise more than the 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) from the top level and you may have to remove some excess fluid if it does so. THEN loosen but do not remove both pad pins with a 12 point one quarter inch socket. THEN remove both metric caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc and pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons into their bores. THEN once the pistons have been retracted, remove the pad pins and the brake pads.
Although the front and rear brake calipers except FXSTD models, use the same exact brake pad set the FXSTD does not and the FXSTD rear pads have a vertical slot cut into the pads. Be sure NOT to substitute front and/or rear brake pads for the other on these bikes. On the right side of the vehicle the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper.
THEN install new pads into the caliper noting that the curved portion of the pad faces to the rear of the bike, and loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click from them. THEN re-attach the caliper to front fork, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long caliper mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork le, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the top mounting bolt also to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the two pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).
THEN and whenever new pads are installed, before moving the bike pump the brakes until brake fluid pushes the caliper pistons and the pads out and verify that the pads are against the brake disc and then rotate the wheel to ensure there is not any excessive drag between the pads and the disc, check for proper fluid level in the reservoir and if necessary top it up with DOT 5 Silicone base brake fluid only, install the reservoir cover and tighten its screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm).
THEN and whenever any work has been done on brakes always test the brakes at low speed before operating on a roadway or at higher speeds. THEN test brake system light and if during the road test the brakes feel spongy at all bleed the system and after obtaining a hard lever or pedal road test the bike again.
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