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https://www.autozone.com > ... > Ford Explorer Sport Trac Headlamp / Headlight
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Products 1 - 60 of 312 - If you're in need of replacements for your 2003 Ford Sport Trac, our selection of custom & factory headlights includes projector beams, LEDs, Halos and more.
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Brand SKU#: Heliolite W0133-1635565; Product Fit: Direct Fit; Quantity Sold: Sold Individually; Anticipated Ship Out Time: Same day - 1 business day; Warranty: 2-year limited warranty. Fits the following Ford Explorer Sport Trac Years. 2001 ' Base ' All Engines; 2002 ' XL ' All Engines; 2003-2005 ' XLS ' All Engines ...
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Check the heater hoses for warmth at the heater core. Some designs do not use a waterflow valve, but instead always have heater core flow and use the air flaps to regulate heat.
Now there is a difference in some thermostats and the housings. Barely noticeable are the locking tabs inside the housing and on the thermostat ring. If you have this setup and the thermostat is not locked in place, you could get some bypass around the thermostat.
If you have an electric cooling fan, the Relay may be stuck, keeping the electric cooling fan running when it should not. This would overcool the engine.
Drain the coolant from your Explorer into an adequate
container by opening the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator. Save
the coolant for reuse if it is relatively new and clean.
Remove the negative battery cable from the battery if your
Explorer has a 2.9-, 3.0-, 4.0- or 5.0-liter engine. This step is not
necessary for 2.3- and 2.5-liter engines.
Follow the upper radiator hose to the front driver's side of
the intake manifold, where it meets the engine. This is where the
thermostat housing on your Ford Explorer is located. If necessary,
remove the air cleaner duct for easy access to the housing.
Loosen the clip on the end of the radiator hose and pull the
hose off the thermostat housing. Use a 10mm wrench or socket to remove
the two retaining bolts on the thermostat housing cover. Remove the
Note the position of the thermostat before removal. Pull out
the old thermostat. Seat the new thermostat inside the housing in the
same position as the old one, spring-side facing into the engine.
Install new gasket over the thermostat.
Reattach the thermostat housing cover and the radiator hose.
Reinstall the air cleaner duct if removed earlier. Fill the radiator
with reserve or new coolant. Start your Explorer and run with the heater
blowing until the engine gets warm. Check for leaks.
remove radiator house from thermostat housing inlet... then remove two bolts that hold the housing on... remove thermostat from housing... replace thermostat with new one... make sure housing does not have any of the old gasket left on it, then replace gasket... ensure you use high temprature rtv.... then put the bolts back in and then put the hose back on... hope this helps
Follow the upper radiator hose from the radiator to the engine and there is a housing that houses the thermostat. Take it off and when you reinstall the thermostsat, make sure the spring goes toward the engine.
The thermostat is located on the motor block under the three bolt flang that the top rediator hose connects to. Remove the three 10MM bolts and the thermostat can be removed for replacement.
1. Remove the air cleaner air duct from the throttle body and air cleaner.
2. Follow the upper radiator hose to the engine to locate the thermostat housing. The housing is located at the front of the intake manifold.
3. Loosen the hose clamp, then detach the hose from the fitting. This can be difficult. If it's stuck, grasp with a pair of adjustable pliers and twist to break the seal. Then pull it off.
4. Remove the bolts and detach the housing cover. Be prepared some coolant may leak out as the gasket seal is broken. Remove the thermostat.
5. Install the new o-ring onto the thermostat (no gasket is needed) and install the thermostat into the intake manifold with the spring side pointing toward the engine.
6. Make sure the air release valve is in the up 12 o'clock position. Install housing cover and bolts. Reattach the hose fitting and tighten the hose clamp. Fill the cooling system with a 50/50 mix of coolant and water, and burp the system.
no sealant should be needed.clean both surfaces well.be sure 'o' ring stays in place & thermostat is installed correctly.you'll probably only fill the hose as the thermostat will be closed,but that won't hurt.keep proper level in over flow tank,it will bleed air out itself in a day or 2
Drain some coolant into a clean container until the coolant level is below the thermostat housing.
Remove the upper radiator hose connection from the thermostat housing.
Loosen the housing bolts and remove the housing.
Remove the gasket and scrape it carefully from the surface of the housing and the mounting surface on the engine. If the gasket remains on either of the surfaces, there will probably bea coolant leak after reassembly. Some engines use a rubber O-ring to seal a thermostat housing.
Compare the size of the thermostat to the old one. They are of different sizes, types, and temperature ratings.
The temperature rating is stamped on the sensing bulb on the bottom of the thermostat. The temperature bulb faces the block.
When replacing a thermostat, be sure that the thermostat fits into the groove in the block or outlet housing. If the thermostat is installed upside down, the engine will overheat.
Install the gasket.
Reinstall the thermostat housing. Refill the system and run the engine or pressure test to check for leaks.
When the engine has reached operating temperature make sure the thermostat opens.
You should be able to see coolant circulating within the radiator.
Another way of checking thermostat operation is to feel the top of the radiator hose or use a thermometer or multimeter with a temperature probe to confirm that the coolant is warming up.
If the engine is overheating, but the top hose is still cool to the touch, the thermostat is stuck closed and must be replaced.