Question about 1987 Mercedes-Benz 300-Class

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1987 300D Turbo, starts, will drive, but WILL NOT IDLE- I'm looking to buy it from this shop I know- bfiguring it has to be simple? DSuggestions? Also, I own a 240D Replaced thge Alternator, Battery, cleaned the posts I get a Glow Plug light flashing sometimes, after driving past warmup, also no apparent vacuum to shut off or Brake booster- at 300K mi, it runs well otherwise?

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: wont start sometimes, rough idle.

Sounds like a bad ignition switch. If your car has a lot of miles (200k miles is pretty common), then it's likely.

Once something breaks loose in the ignition switch, well basically you got lil pieces of metal floating around making contact where they shouldn't, which create the scenerios you're talking about.

The glow plug light may or may not be related. But you won't know til you get that first problem fixed.

If the rough idle eventually smooths up after it warms up, then yes, you probably need to look at the glow plugs and/or glow plug relay.

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

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SOURCE: Mecedes 1979 300D glow plugs do not glow

Ask a friend and not a computer.

Posted on Jun 17, 2009

alicantecoli
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SOURCE: 1990 190e 2.6 shuts off while driving sometimes

try changing the ignition module ,,,,but be warned these are a bit on the pricey side ,around 1000€

Posted on Oct 10, 2009

  • 53 Answers

SOURCE: 240d mercedes. automatic door locks seldom work.

Very common. The rubber diaphrams and checkvalve o rings do not last forever, and they begin to leak. The most common one is the driver side's vacuum door lock valve. This one is activated when your key turns the lock and diverts the valve's vacuum, which activates the other door's plungers to open. This is the one to fix first, and it requires that you remove the inside door hardware and panel to reach it. Buy a new valve ahead of time so you don't have to take it apart again. Then try the system. If it works but still not well, then get ready to test the other vacuum pods: Trunk, gas cap, center dash (HVAC). The center dash pod is fairly common and a bit difficult to reach (I would go through the center dash' vent with one hand, and the removed glovebox with the other) to replace the center. Check the web for the detail on that one because it requires taking the pod apart while its still attached to its bracket under the dash) Not fun, but better than removing the entire dash. In the end, troublshooting - specially without a vacuum pump (you can get a hand held one from an autostore) - is tedious and is by trial and error and replacing the pods. But, either you do it, or be charged $75/hr and no gaurantee the leak can be found. New door valve is about $20 and the dash pod $25.

Posted on Mar 19, 2010

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Looks like the same problem I had.
Mine 91 non turbo had the same high idle. I tried everything including new alternator and vacc controls that costed me big.Finally I took the fixing out of the shop to my hand and checked every single thing in engine bay. Amazingly to find out real simple things been giving me hard time.
To make it short, the gas throttle cable got stuck in transition box. Cleaned it with WD 40 and lubed and everything went back to zoom zoom.

Hope it ll help in your case,

Andrew

aoo_us@yahoo.com

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