Question about 2003 Volkswagen Jetta TDI

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Power loss Folks: I have an 03 tdi that has a loss of power and this is the story. Initial loss a couple of months ago. Check engine codes showed coolant temp sensor fault. Replaced this as well as Mass air flow sensor. Little better with coolant temp sensor but still loss especially when accelerating up hill. Replaced fuel filter, no change. Finally broke down and took it to dealer last week and was told manifold plugged with carbon. They cleaned manifold, replaced EGR cooler and EGR valve. Also replaced timing belt for maintence. Seemed a little better when I left the shop and then once I was on the road to work 200 miles away, I realized that the same issue stands. Poor acceleration, no power on hill. Also noted that the beautiful bum from the turbo that I used to hear was absent. SO.. My thoughts after review are 1) Vaccume leak 2) turbo is shot 3) Injectors are plugged (The injector pump was replaced at 70000. Now I have 142K on the rig. Any ideas on direction to go. I will be taking it back to dealer once I get home. Thanks

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  • aoram Aug 03, 2008

    Last time injection pump failed problem was entirely different. Will address this but think that problem lies in acceleration system ie: the sensors that feed into the computer - MAF, EGR etc.

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Go to this link for helpful tdi members to assist you

http://tdiclub.com/chat/

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

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Coolant temp sensor fault has nothing to do with loss of power, probably car was better because of othe jobs done. No no power on hill, no kick in from turbo. This suggest either a turbo compressor problem, a general car compression problem (head gasket starting to go?, problem on cylinders?), or a EC unit in need of replacement.

Posted on Aug 03, 2008

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  • Master
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Hi,

Initially based on your description, it may be the turbo not kicking in. The simplest/easiest check is to use an accurate boost gauge, length of hose and hose connectors. Specific steps/procedures are detailed here.

Other than that, perhaps an OBD style diagnostic scan might pinpoint probable faultsand/or a major tune up might improve things a bit. You may want tostart with the O2 sensors and/or the EGR valve (cleaning/replacing).

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards. Thank you for using FixYa.

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 03, 2008

    Or it could just be the waste gate stuck in the open position.

  • Louie  Role
    Louie Role Aug 03, 2008

    Both the EGR and the O2 sensors could be removed and cleaned, just a bit messy. Both would and could be coated with carbon deposits causing them to get incorrect readings and therefore send erroneous triggers to the onboard computer.

    Though I still think that the turbo issue is a strong possibility especially with the possible stuck open wastegate. Incidentally, the wastegate is a bypass, sort of regulator, to allow the exhaust gases a means of escape and not spin the turbo; normally at over 10PSI boost.


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Seem issue with the injector (fuel) pump.

Posted on Aug 02, 2008

  • Legin Varghese
    Legin Varghese Aug 02, 2008

    Equipment required

    Accurate boost gauge, length of hose, hose connectors.

    Connection


    1. Check the manufacturer's data to establish the boost pressure limits.
    2. On the majority of petrol engine vehicles, the boost reading is taken from the inlet manifold.
    3. Connect the boost gauge hose into a convenient take-off pipe on the inlet manifold. Ensure that the connection is after the throttle butterfly valve (a vacuum will be present with the engine ticking over).
    4. Do NOT connect boost gauge hose into brake servo vacuum line.
    5. Carefully route the boost gauge hose back to the dashboard. Do not allow hose to foul throttle linkage or any other moving parts i.e., cooling fan, alternator or water pump.
    6. Connect the boost gauge to the hose and place in a convenient position which can easily be read from the driving position.

    Testing

    1. Drive the vehicle until a normal water temperature reading is attained.
    2. Choose a long straight empty road (preferably with a gentle incline). Steady the engine speed to around 3000 rev/min and select either third or fourth gear, depending on road speed.
    3. Using your left foot on the brake pedal, gently increase throttle whilst applying the brakes to maintain 3000 revs/min.
    4. When full throttle is reached at 3000 rev/min check the boost reading on the gauge.
    5. If the boost pressure requires adjustment, consult the manufacture's recommendations.

    IMPORTANT NOTES:



    • If, whilst taking a boost reading, pinking or detonation is audible from the engine, the test should be aborted to prevent damaging the engine.


    • This test will overheat the vehicle's brakes in a short time. The test procedure must be conducted within five seconds to prevent brake fade.


    • Only conduct testing on a private test ground or closed road.

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