Question about 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Best way is to drive car to AutoZone or Sears, they will check it in the car free. The alternator does not need to be removed.
You can also use a multimeter ($5 ~ 50) also known as a "volt-ohm meter".
Start engine and be careful because the multimeter test leads can get caught in the spinning fan, fanbelt, pulleys, etc.
The safety factor may not be good enough for you to attempt.
Do not try to retrieve any test wire that falls or gets caught.
Clamp the black (ground - negative) probe to the engine somewhere close to the alternator. Place the red test lead on the red alternator wire that is held onto the alternator with a nut. It may be covered-up by a red rubber boot.
Place multimeter (and test leads) in a safe position where you can read the multimeter display. You will start the engine, so make sure it will stay in place.
Read the meter. It should read 13.8 volts on the DC scale. A small fluctuation is normal. Turn OFF engine and disconnect meter.
There are further tests; however, this should have given you the result you need.
Posted on Oct 02, 2009
SOURCE: where is the fuel pump
Your asking for about a shut off fuel line switch. It is not decribed as a lack of, or fuel flow problem. To check to see if your fuel pump is operating, 1st remove the battery terminals, taking care, if you have a Delco Lock radio to set the code, before disconnecting the power/battery. After battery is disconnected...use a negative "jumper" wire from the battery to the frame/engine to make a ground. Taking a cheap "fusable" link, use a piece of wire to take positive power ( + ) to the female pigtail connector, open sith no wire going to it, which will be on or near the top of the RH or LH shock tower. This is the direct power test line to activate the fuel pump. Have an assistant, near the fuel tank to see if fuel pump whirling can be detected. If it is 'OPERABLE" the problem of it not working, can very posibly be; (sit down for this one) a bad oil sending unit. I removed 3 fuel pumps, on S-10's, (this requires partial lifting & moving the truck bed back). After this failed multiple times, I sat & followed the wiring schematic. The Oil Sending unit shares a ground with (guess what) the relay, that initiates the fuel pump. Not the pump itself, the relay that "kicks it in". After replacing these oil Sending units in 3 GM Vehicles............no further problems were encountered.
Posted on Aug 30, 2011
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