I have changed all the brake hardware already like the rotors, calipers, flex line hoses, and shoes. I still sometimes get the smell of metal heating up and when i stop the front lug nut are super hot to the touch almost hot enough to burn your hand what could it be?
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Re: super hot lug nuts
Sounds like the wheel bearing is bad - when it is, the friction inside the hub goes up and the hub gets heated, sometimes to scalding temperatures. You should immediately look into getting this handled - a fully failed wheel bearing may cause the wheel to lock up at speed, potentially causing a crash.
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Replacing the rotors is usually a good idea if you experience shimmying when braking. It is recommend that you replace both the rotor and the brake pads at the same time. The reference for this information is from this site:
1. Jack up the vehicle and put some jack stands under it.
2. Remove the Lug nuts and the tire.
3. Carefully remove the caliper and caliper bracket.
4. Remove the old rotor. And replace it with the new rotor.
5. Reassemble the caliper bracket
6. Put on the new brakes pads and reassemble the caliper.
7. Put the tire and lug nuts back on.
8. Be sure to use the proper torque specifications.
9. Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle.
10. Read torque the lug nuts to the proper specification.
11. Follow the link for details and photos.
of the brake fluid out of the master cylinder.
Mark the relationship of the wheel to the wheel stud for re-installation purposes. Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Install 2 lug nuts to secure the rotor in place when the caliper is removed.
Install a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing and
against the back of the outboard shoe. Slowly tighten the C-clamp until
the caliper pistons are pushed into the caliper bore enough to slide the
caliper assembly off the rotor. Use care not to tighten the C-clamp too
far or the outboard shoe retaining spring will be deformed and require
Remove the caliper mounting bolts and remove the brake caliper from the mounting bracket.
DO NOT disconnect the brake hose from the caliper or allow the
brake hose to support the weight of the caliper. Support the caliper on a
piece of wire out of the way.
Remove the outer brake pad from the caliper using a suitable
prying tool to lift the outboard shoe retaining spring so that it will
clear the caliper center lug and pull the brake pad out of the caliper.
Remove the inner brake pad by unsnapping the shoe springs from the piston.
Clean all parts well. If the brake pads were worn so badly that
the brake rotor is damaged, it must be replaced. Light scoring of the
rotor surfaces not exceeding 0.060 inch (1.5mm) in depth is not harmful
to brake operation and may result from normal use. Brake rotors may be
refinished. Do not use a rotor that, after refinishing, will not meet
the thickness specification cast in the rotor. Always replace with a new
If not done at removal, now use a C-clamp and clamp both pistons
at the same time with a metal plate or wooden block across the face of
both pistons. Take care not to damage the pistons or caliper boots.
After bottoming the pistons into the caliper bore, lift the inner
edge of each caliper boot next to the piston and press out any trapped
air. Make sure each boot convolution is tucked back into place. Boots
must lay flat.
Inspect the caliper bushings for wear. Replace as necessary.
Carefully inspect the slide bolts for corrosion. If corrosion if found,
use new parts including the bushing assemblies when installing the
caliper. Do not attempt to polish away corrosion. Lubricate caliper
slide bolts with silicone grease.
Install the new inner disc brake pad in the caliper by snapping
the shoe retainer springs into the piston making sure both sets of
locking tabs are seated in the caliper pistons. The pad must seat flat
against the pistons.
Install the outer pad into the caliper by snapping the outboard
shoe retaining spring over the caliper center lug and into the housing
slot. The pad will slide up onto the caliper and the retaining ring will
lock into place on the groove in the caliper.
The outer pad wear sensor should be at the trailing edge of the shoe during forward wheel rotation.
Install the caliper mounting bolts and torque to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
Remove the 2 nuts temporarily securing the rotor.
Install the tire and wheel assembly and tighten to specification.
Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the pads against the rotor.
Check the brake fluid level and top off as necessary.
Road test the vehicle to ensure the proper brake performance.
Some GM Vehicles use aT-30 Torx bit, other use a regular hex head bolt with a ratchet tor remove the caliper. The following shows how to remove the caliper from the line.
Brake CaliperRemoval & InstallationFrontTo Remove:
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
If the brake fluid level is higher than midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, remove brake fluid to the midway point before proceeding.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Hand tighten 2 wheel lug nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
Install a large C-clamp over the brake caliper with the ends of the clamp against the rear of the caliper body and the outer brake pad.
Tighten the C-clamp until the caliper piston is compressed into the bore enough to allow the piston to slide past the rotor and remove the C-clamp.
Disconnect the brake line from the caliper and discard the two copper gaskets.
Plug the brake line and the opening in the brake caliper.
NOTE: On second design hardware, the upper caliper pin bolt has a bushing as part of the bolt. The lower caliper pin bolt is of a solid design.
Remove the caliper pin bolts and the caliper from the bracket.
Replace any damaged caliper pin boots.
If reusing the brake caliper pin bolts, wipe the old grease from the brake caliper pin bolts.
On first design hardware apply high temperature silicone brake lubricant to the brake caliper pin bolts. On second design hardware, apply a thin coat of NIGLUBE® or equivalent grease to the brake caliper pin bolts. In either case it is not necessary to apply lubricant to the threads of the pin bolts.
Install the brake caliper over the brake pads into the brake caliper bracket.
NOTE: On second design hardware, the upper caliper pin bolt has a bushing as part of the bolt. The lower caliper pin bolt is of a solid design.
Install the caliper pin bolts and torque to 38 ft-lbs (51 Nm) (1996 - 1999), 63 ft-lbs (85 Nm) (2000 – 2005).
Install the brake hose bolt with new copper brake hose gaskets to the brake hose and to the brake caliper, torque to 33 ft-lbs (45 Nm) (1996 – 2001) 32 ft-lbs (43 Nm) (2002 – 2005).
Bleed the brake system.
With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of its travel distance and slowly release the pedal. Wait 15 seconds and do it again until a firm brake pedal is obtained.
Remove the 2 wheel lug nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove the front wheels.
Remove the 2 caliper to steering knuckle guide pin bolts.
Lift the caliper away from the steering knuckle by first rotating the free end of the caliper away from the steering knuckle. Then, slide the opposite end of the caliper out from under the machined end of the steering knuckle.
Support the caliper from the upper control arm to prevent the weight of the caliper from being supported by the brake flex hose that will damage the hose.
Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Remove the outboard brake pad by prying the pad retaining clip over the raised area on the caliper. Then, slide the pad down and off the caliper. Pull the inboard brake pad away from the piston until the retaining clip is free from the cavity in the piston.
If required, the rotor can be removed by pulling it straight off the wheel mounting studs.
Clean all parts well. Inspect the caliper for piston seal leaks (brake fluid in and around the boot area and inboard lining) and for any ruptures of the piston dust boot. If the boot is damaged or fluid leak is visible, disassemble the caliper and install a new seal and boot (and piston, if scored).
Inspect the caliper pin bushings. Replace if damaged, dry or brittle.
Completely compress the piston into the caliper using a large C-clamp or other suitable tool.
Lubricate the area on the steering knuckle where the caliper slides with high temperature grease.
Reinstall the rotor if removed.
Reinstall the brake pads into the caliper. Note that the inboard and outboard pads are different. Make sure the inboard brake shoe assembly is positioned squarely against the face of the caliper piston.
Be sure to remove the noise suppression gasket paper cover if the pads come so equipped.
Carefully position the caliper and brake shoe assemblies over the rotor by hooking the lower end of the caliper over the steering knuckle. Then, rotate the caliper into position at the top of the steering knuckle. Make sure the caliper guide pin bolts, bushings and sleeves are clear of the steering knuckle bosses.
Reinstall the caliper guide pin bolts and torque to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
Reinstall the wheels and torque the lug nuts to 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
Pump the brake pedal until the brake pads are seated and a firm pedal is achieved before attempting to move the vehicle.
Slightly loosen tire lug nuts, raise car with jack, remove lug nuts and wheel, remove caliper bolts from brake calipers. Open cap on brake fluid reservoir, place folded towel over top of reservoir and set cap on the paper towel to hold it in place, use a large 9-inch C-clamp to squeez in on front brake pad about 1/8 inch. REmove caliper from rotor. Hang caliper from shock coils with strong bungie strap so there is no pressure on the brake line. Remove bolts from caliper plate and remove caliper plate. Using oversized phillips screwdriver end attached to a 3/8 inch flex wrench, you will carefully put light pressure in a counter-clockwise direction to remove the brass screws and tap the flex wrench at the same time with a large 3-pound hammer driving the screwdriver end into the top of the screw as you put more pressure on the wrench to loosen the screw. This is about the only way to remove brass screws without "damaging them" and they are a dealer item not found in parts store. There should be two screws holding the rotor on. Then spray liquid wrench or penetrating oil into all holes on rotor toward center to help dissolve rust. Wait three minutes then tap rear of rotor lightly with large hammer taking care NOT to hit the thin metal rotor shield. Eventually, this tapping force will loosen the rotor. Use same technique of tapping the flex wrench when applying pressure to wrench to tighten the brass screws when replacing the rotors.
CAUTION: Do not use heat to loosen a seized lug nut . Heat can damage the wheel and the wheel bearings. Loosen the lug nuts.
Remove the center cap.
With the weight of the vehicle on the wheels, loosen the lug nuts.
WARNING: THE ELECTRICAL POWER TO THE AIR SUSPENSION SYSTEM MUST BE SHUT OFF PRIOR TO HOISTING, JACKING OR TOWING AN AIR SUSPENSION VEHICLE. THIS CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED BY TURNING OFF THE AIR SUSPENSION SWITCH LOCATED IN THE RH KICK PANEL AREA. FAILURE TO DO SO MAY RESULT IN UNEXPECTED INFLATION OR DEFLATION OF THE AIR SPRINGS WHICH MAY RESULT IN SHIFTING OF THE VEHICLE DURING THESE OPERATIONS. Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the lug nuts.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
CAUTION: Replace the lining if worn to or past specifications. Replace the brake shoes and linings in complete axle sets. Inspect the brake shoes and linings for wear or contamination.
WARNING: BRAKE FLUID CONTAINS POLYGLYCOL ETHERS AND POLYGLYCOLS. AVOID CONTACT WITH EYES. WASH HANDS THOROUGHLY AFTER HANDLING. IF BRAKE FLUID CONTACTS EYES, FLUSH EYES WITH RUNNING WATER FOR 15 MINUTES. GET MEDICAL ATTENTION IF IRRITATION PERSISTS. IF TAKEN INTERNALLY, DRINK WATER AND INDUCE VOMITING. GET MEDICAL ATTENTION IMMEDIATELY. Disconnect the front brake hose (2078).
Remove the front brake hose bolt.
Remove the copper washers. Plug the front brake hose.
Disconnect the front brake hose
Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120).
Remove the two caliper bolts.
Lift the front disc brake caliper (2B121) off the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
On 4x2 vehicles, measure the front disc brake hub and rotor (1102) thickness.
Replace the front disc brake hub and rotor if not within specifications 27.7mm Min.
On 4x4 vehicles, measure the front disc brake rotor thickness.
Replace thhe front disc brake rotor if not within specifications. 27.7mm Min.
Caliper mounting bracket bolts 125 ft, Caliper guide pins/bolts 26 ft, Brake hose to caliper 35 ft. Wheel lug nuts 100 ft. Wheel speed sensor 115in lbs*** This is for disc rear brakes Teves system. You do know that the rear disc is a Rotor/Drum. The parking brake shoes ride on the inside.
Remove about 2⁄3 of the brake fluid from the reservoir with a clean syringe or baster type utensil.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Matchmark the relationship of the wheel to the axle flange. Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Reinstall two lug nuts to retain the rotor.
Unfasten the bolt and washer attaching the cable support bracket to the caliper body assembly. It is not necessary to disconnect the parking brake cable from the caliper parking brake lever or disconnect the brake hose unless the caliper is to be completely removed from the vehicle. Freeing the cable support bracket allows enough flexibility in the cable to pivot the caliper up and down and remove the shoe and lining.
Remove the sleeve bolt.
Pivot the caliper body assembly up. Do not completely remove the caliper assembly body.
Remove the outboard and inboard shoe and linings (pads) from the caliper support.
Remove the two pad clips from the caliper support.
Bottom the piston assembly into the caliper bore. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slot to turn the piston assembly and thread it into the caliper body assembly.
After bottoming the piston, lift the inner edge of the boot next to the piston assembly and press out any trapped air. The boot must lie flat. Make sure the slots in the end of the piston are positioned correctly before pivoting the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining in the caliper support. Use a suitable spanner-type tool in the piston slots to turn the piston as necessary.
NOTE: Whenever installing new pads, install new pad clips. These should be provided in the disc pad kit.
Install the two pad clips in the caliper support.
Install the outboard and inboard shoe and lining in the caliper support. The wear sensor is on the outboard pad. The sensor is positioned downward at the leading edge of the rotor during forward wheel rotation. Hold the metal shoe edge against the spring end of the clips in the caliper support. Push the shoe in toward the hub, bending the spring ends slightly, and engage the shoe notches with the support abutments.
Pivot the caliper body assembly down over the shoe and lining assembly. Be careful not to damage the piston boot on the inboard. Compress the sleeve boot by hand as the caliper body moves into position to prevent boot damage.
After the caliper body is in position, recheck the installation of the pad clips. If necessary, use a small prytool to re-seat or center the pad clips on the support abutments.
Install the sleeve bolt and tighten to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
Install the cable support bracket (with the cable attached) with the bolt and washer. Tighten the bolt to 32 ft. lbs. (43 Nm).
Remove the two lug nuts retaining the rotor.
Install the wheel and tire assembly, aligning the marks made during removal.
Carefully lower the vehicle, then firmly depress the brake pedal 3 times to seat the pads against the rotors.
Section 04-01: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Front
1996 Taurus, Sable Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Hub Bolt
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove wheel and tire assembly. Refer to Section 04-04 .
Remove disc brake caliper (2B120), and front disc brake rotor (1125). Refer to Section 06-03 .
Brake Shoe and Lining
Remove brake master cylinder filler cap (2162). Check fluid level in brake master cylinder reservoir (2K478). Remove brake fluid until brake master cylinder reservoir is half full. Discard removed fluid.
Raise vehicle on hoist. Refer to Section 00-02 .
Remove wheel and tire assembly from front disc brake rotor mounting face. Use care to avoid damage or interference with disc brake caliper (2B120), front disc brake rotor shield (2K004) or front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove rear brake pin retainers (2N386). ( I think it is a T 40 torx bit you need)
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect hydraulic connections.
Lift disc brake caliper from front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292) and front disc brake rotor (1125). Do not pry directly against metal caliper piston or damage will occur.
Position disc brake caliper out of the way and support with wire to avoid damaging the disc brake caliper and front brake hose (2078).
Remove outer brake shoe and lining (2001) assembly from front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Remove inner brake shoe and lining assembly.
Position lug bolt (1107) to clear front wheel knuckle (3K185).
Remove lug bolt from wheel hub (1104).
Install lug bolt into wheel hub.
Using a lug nut (1012), seat wheel hub bolt into wheel hub.
Install front disc brake rotor and disc brake caliper. Refer to Section 06-03 .
Install wheel and tire assembly. Tighten lug nut to 115-142Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
Hello, this do it yourself project is very manageable if it is brake pads that you are replacing on your car; if they are disc shoes it may be a little bit harder. In essence a brake job can be done straight out of a auto manual for your car and is not to diffucult as long as you follow good safety procedures while jacking up your vehicle and removing your wheels. First, I would park your car and setting your parking break will make your rear brakes impossible to get off so do not set it. I would however keep this in mind and be very careful working on your car then. I would chaulk your front wheel with a chaulk block or a brick. I would loosen your lug nuts just to break the intial torque I would then jack up the rear of your vehicle and set jack stands under your car in the proper locations. Then systematically, remover your wheel and then the two bolts holding your caliper to the spindle. Carefully, remove the caliper and do not let it hang becuase you will bend your brake line. Remove old shoes, then compress the caliper with a caliper compression tool from your local auto parts store or a c-clamp and a small block of wood. Inspect the rotor for deep gouges, a blue tint, or if you know you have gotten them really hot before I would replace the rotor. Next, install the new brake pads, put rotor back onto spindle and insert bolts back into caliper housing. Repeat for the next side and put the wheel back on and remember to torque your lug nuts to the proper specification. I hope this fixes your problem for you!